Buying a Cerbera
Discussion
Hello chaps,
I have been looking at buying myself a Cerbera 4.2
I have noticed quite a few coming onto the market these last couple of months, prices I've seen range from 9k upwards.
I am willing to do work on the vehicle, I am able to do most work apart from the really mechanically indepth i.e engine.
What aspects should I look out for, I know these cars can turn into money pits, but the ones I have a test drive in, by jingle absolutley fantastic!
I would also get one of the RAC chaps round to have a look over the beast.
There is one in question I've seen, the major issues I can see are; Driver's window doesn't fully close, some cracks in the body behind the nearside front light (I can't see issues with this since I intend to do the light conversion)
There has been lots of work done, all paperwork with the car, from my limited experience I can see the all important clutch change has taken place.
I have been told the 4.2 is the best to go for. 4.5 drink the oil and speed 6 can be really dodgy!
Thanks for any info guys, I'll have a good look through the site about more chit chat on the fantastic cerbera
I have been looking at buying myself a Cerbera 4.2
I have noticed quite a few coming onto the market these last couple of months, prices I've seen range from 9k upwards.
I am willing to do work on the vehicle, I am able to do most work apart from the really mechanically indepth i.e engine.
What aspects should I look out for, I know these cars can turn into money pits, but the ones I have a test drive in, by jingle absolutley fantastic!
I would also get one of the RAC chaps round to have a look over the beast.
There is one in question I've seen, the major issues I can see are; Driver's window doesn't fully close, some cracks in the body behind the nearside front light (I can't see issues with this since I intend to do the light conversion)
There has been lots of work done, all paperwork with the car, from my limited experience I can see the all important clutch change has taken place.
I have been told the 4.2 is the best to go for. 4.5 drink the oil and speed 6 can be really dodgy!
Thanks for any info guys, I'll have a good look through the site about more chit chat on the fantastic cerbera
Having a look through the paperwork shows that the last owner looked after the beast, service done about every 8k all problems which had popped up were sorted.
But reading what has been said here and previous posts I've been looking through I want to have a closer look at the chassis.
At present my garage is packed full, it would be kept outside. I would get a cover, any suggestions on that?
Thanks again guys.
But reading what has been said here and previous posts I've been looking through I want to have a closer look at the chassis.
At present my garage is packed full, it would be kept outside. I would get a cover, any suggestions on that?
Thanks again guys.
Service intervals are every 6k with a major one at 12k. Has the servicing been carried out at a known TVR specialist? You could give them a call as they should know the car if they've worked on it.
If you're serious about this one, I would arrange for it to be taken to a specialist so they can check it over.
There has been a thread recently about Cerbs being kept outside and I recall something about car covers. It might be worth checking back.
If you're serious about this one, I would arrange for it to be taken to a specialist so they can check it over.
There has been a thread recently about Cerbs being kept outside and I recall something about car covers. It might be worth checking back.
If it's going to be sitting outside and not used much then I'd say you are asking for trouble.
Aside from the chassis issues you'll also potentially have dampness getting into the electronics and causing them to act up.
However if it's going to be used regularly and gets warmed up and dried out you won't have as many issues.
I'd still advise to keep it indoors ..... remember the chassis is just powdercoated mild steel, no galvanising on it.
Aside from the chassis issues you'll also potentially have dampness getting into the electronics and causing them to act up.
However if it's going to be used regularly and gets warmed up and dried out you won't have as many issues.
I'd still advise to keep it indoors ..... remember the chassis is just powdercoated mild steel, no galvanising on it.
I've read (on the last topic on PH about warming up a Cerb), that the best way to warm it up is to start it up, keep the revs at 1.5-2k rpm for about 30 seconds to get the oil up to the cams, and then just starting driving it. If I remember correctly it's not a great idea to let it idle for a long time because of bore wash on the cold start up cycle, I think it was that, or something to do with the pistons (anyone remember that thread?).
i start and drive almost straight away... No revving untill temp up to 70+, short shift gears, theres enough power to not need to rev nuts off engine (untill warm that is) my theory is just sitting there on tick over doesnt warm up diff or gearbox oil but as u say we all have our ways. The main agreement is dont rev the engine to high while cold.
boss1uk said:
i start and drive almost straight away... No revving untill temp up to 70+, short shift gears, theres enough power to not need to rev nuts off engine (untill warm that is) my theory is just sitting there on tick over doesnt warm up diff or gearbox oil but as u say we all have our ways. The main agreement is dont rev the engine to high while cold.
This. 3k max for me until shes warm. Amazing how quick you hit 3k revs 
Start and idle with slight blips <1800 for 30 secs. Drive keeping below 2500 until Thermostat has opened and the radiator is up to 70+.
I chose the 4.5 for bar-time bragging but since I've had her, I've heard of several problems with 4.2 cranks. Difference in standard horsepower is negligible but (again) I've heard the 4.5 can be comfortably pushed to higher levels if your interest (and budget) are that way inclined. The basic car is so diffent to anything else you meet on a day-to-day basis that you'll be in
whichever model you get.
BUT
I'm with Ireland on keeping her indoors. Whatever is cluttering up your garage, get rid.
Good luck
I chose the 4.5 for bar-time bragging but since I've had her, I've heard of several problems with 4.2 cranks. Difference in standard horsepower is negligible but (again) I've heard the 4.5 can be comfortably pushed to higher levels if your interest (and budget) are that way inclined. The basic car is so diffent to anything else you meet on a day-to-day basis that you'll be in
whichever model you get.BUT
I'm with Ireland on keeping her indoors. Whatever is cluttering up your garage, get rid.
Good luck
Edited by Mr Cerbera on Thursday 30th September 09:56
A couple of points arise. Most post 99 4.2 engines are 4.5 litre. It became nothing more than a model designation. Looking at what it says the capacity is on the log book (or engine) won't help either. TVR registered them as 4.2 or 4.5 but were economical with the truth in doing so. The only easy way to tell is to lift the heads off and measure the bores as even the throttle bodies can be easily changed and then there are really very few clues as to which capacity it is.
My 4.5 has never used so much as drop of oil, either into the combustion areas or onto the garage floor in 42,000 miles. Since the 4.2 and 4.5 engines, even pre 1999 were identical other than the cylinder bore size and the throttle bodies I would not expect one to be any more likely to be oil fired than the other. The AJP is an excellent if unrefined engine. It was designed for race track use, attached to a transaxle behind the driver, so smoothness and silence were not a priority. It rattles like a can of marbles when cold. That's not because it's rubbish, it's because it has tiny slipper pistons with a high thermal expansion ratio, simply put, they are loose in the bores when cold in order to be spot on when fully hot. There are some rumours about cheese based cranks on very early 4.2 engines but the number of conformed failures compared to the number of cars out there is very small indeed. The Speed 6 engine, on the other hand, is noted for one or two significant faults. This shows in the resale values of Cerbera Speed 6 models. The problems are apparently fixable but personaly I would be nervous about buying one without a warranted engine with the later mods from a reputable source.
The rest of the car is not exceptionally complex. The gearbox is an off the shelf Tremec T5, the clutch is easily available and no mkore thanb a ford dealer would sting you for a mondeo one. The diff is a standard off the shelf unit. Suspension is coilovers, full kit of ebay for £500 - £1000 depending on your wishes and budget. A chassis inspection is a good idea though.
My 4.5 has never used so much as drop of oil, either into the combustion areas or onto the garage floor in 42,000 miles. Since the 4.2 and 4.5 engines, even pre 1999 were identical other than the cylinder bore size and the throttle bodies I would not expect one to be any more likely to be oil fired than the other. The AJP is an excellent if unrefined engine. It was designed for race track use, attached to a transaxle behind the driver, so smoothness and silence were not a priority. It rattles like a can of marbles when cold. That's not because it's rubbish, it's because it has tiny slipper pistons with a high thermal expansion ratio, simply put, they are loose in the bores when cold in order to be spot on when fully hot. There are some rumours about cheese based cranks on very early 4.2 engines but the number of conformed failures compared to the number of cars out there is very small indeed. The Speed 6 engine, on the other hand, is noted for one or two significant faults. This shows in the resale values of Cerbera Speed 6 models. The problems are apparently fixable but personaly I would be nervous about buying one without a warranted engine with the later mods from a reputable source.
The rest of the car is not exceptionally complex. The gearbox is an off the shelf Tremec T5, the clutch is easily available and no mkore thanb a ford dealer would sting you for a mondeo one. The diff is a standard off the shelf unit. Suspension is coilovers, full kit of ebay for £500 - £1000 depending on your wishes and budget. A chassis inspection is a good idea though.
Again thanks guys your input, it has been very informative and is giving me a better understanding about this cracking car.
My first draw to it was the sound, then the look and then the by the pants driving experience also not forgetting the two fingered salute to the eco-mentalists and the health and safety brigade!
I will clear the garage or build an extention!
My first draw to it was the sound, then the look and then the by the pants driving experience also not forgetting the two fingered salute to the eco-mentalists and the health and safety brigade!
I will clear the garage or build an extention!
Services every 8K ? Have they been done to schedule?
Every 6K or every 12 months , whatever is the sooner.
Warm up - you want to hear the owner say - I do 1 or 2 miles at 2.5K or less 3 or 4 miles before I go over 3K, then to 4K and about 8 miles before I give it beans. It is not like a Vauxhall Astra.
You should also want a good stack of bills to evidence major stuff done in last 2 or 3 yrs (clutch, brakes, water pipes etc are the things to look for).
If the car has got away with £1K pa for 3 or 4 yrs then you will potentially have some big bills looming.
IF the chassis is in need of work then tread carefully. Even the most comprehensive of inspections wont find all chassis issues and if you can see some then you can be sure there are other hidden ones. So the bills could be big.
Look hard and find the right car in the right condition from the right owner with the right paperwork etc....
Every 6K or every 12 months , whatever is the sooner.
Warm up - you want to hear the owner say - I do 1 or 2 miles at 2.5K or less 3 or 4 miles before I go over 3K, then to 4K and about 8 miles before I give it beans. It is not like a Vauxhall Astra.
You should also want a good stack of bills to evidence major stuff done in last 2 or 3 yrs (clutch, brakes, water pipes etc are the things to look for).
If the car has got away with £1K pa for 3 or 4 yrs then you will potentially have some big bills looming.
IF the chassis is in need of work then tread carefully. Even the most comprehensive of inspections wont find all chassis issues and if you can see some then you can be sure there are other hidden ones. So the bills could be big.
Look hard and find the right car in the right condition from the right owner with the right paperwork etc....
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