Discussion
paul.a said:
Quick couple of questions has anybody changed there coolant pipes for the stainless and poly pipes and did it make any difference to water temperature and is it an easy job to do Thanks (search is down)
Easy job? I did it so it can't be that hard. Just do one hose at a time or it will start to get very confusing.I did it as we had the engine out so can't say wether the water temp. changed, it seems to run about the same as the old one.
I very much doubt it'll make a difference to the water temp, but definitely well worth doing. After 13 years my rubber hoses were just about shot and the coolant pipes (by the steering rack) were holed. The stainless items look a lot nicer. The silicon hoses brighten up the engine bay a little bit too.
As Pied Piper says, just do one or two at a time. Also, I would invest in some good quality jubilee clips as the ones supplied with the silicon hose set looked a little flimsy and cheap. At least the indie I spoke to about the job told me to just nip them up, then when I start the engine and bleed the system, if I see any leaks just nip the clips up a little bit more. He told me that if you try to tighten them fully first off the chances are you'll just knacker the thread. You'll also have to cut a couple of the hoses as some are supplied slightly too long.
Also, as someone who has just had a cylinder head off and seen the brown/orange gunk in the water jacket of the engine block, I've decided to use some much better coolant. In fact I've just got back from Halfords after buying their Advanced Formula Engine Coolant (it's bright red), which is specifically designed to work better in Aluminium engines. I've also bought some of their battery top up water (basically just Ionised water), which again should help to stop corrosion. I looked for some water wetter which does work to bring the temperature down a few degrees but I couldn't see that they sell it.
Oh, and one more tip, where you can use a 7mm socket instead of a screwdriver. Much much easier when using a proper socket and wrench and much less chance of ruining the jubilee clip screw.
Just in case you get stuck, I took this picture when I took all my hoses off.
As Pied Piper says, just do one or two at a time. Also, I would invest in some good quality jubilee clips as the ones supplied with the silicon hose set looked a little flimsy and cheap. At least the indie I spoke to about the job told me to just nip them up, then when I start the engine and bleed the system, if I see any leaks just nip the clips up a little bit more. He told me that if you try to tighten them fully first off the chances are you'll just knacker the thread. You'll also have to cut a couple of the hoses as some are supplied slightly too long.
Also, as someone who has just had a cylinder head off and seen the brown/orange gunk in the water jacket of the engine block, I've decided to use some much better coolant. In fact I've just got back from Halfords after buying their Advanced Formula Engine Coolant (it's bright red), which is specifically designed to work better in Aluminium engines. I've also bought some of their battery top up water (basically just Ionised water), which again should help to stop corrosion. I looked for some water wetter which does work to bring the temperature down a few degrees but I couldn't see that they sell it.
Oh, and one more tip, where you can use a 7mm socket instead of a screwdriver. Much much easier when using a proper socket and wrench and much less chance of ruining the jubilee clip screw.
Just in case you get stuck, I took this picture when I took all my hoses off.
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