Clutch Fork & Release Bearing
Discussion
There are two 'slipper'pads at the end of the fork that you need to slide into the two slots at the bearing/bearing carrier. This is fiddly as at the same time you need to attach the fork to the pivot and this while the bearing carrier tends to rotate.... A bit of trail and error is required, but not to difficult to get it done (assuming you have the box out, trying to do this through a hole in the bellhousing - as I did - took a couple of hours of perseverance!)
Rob
Rob
Hi,
If box is still in car with engine attached as happened to us when fiddling with clutch slave cylinder, we drilled an 83mm hole in bottom of bellhousing exactly on the casting numbers/words on the bottom of the bellhousing. my boy was able to get his entire body into sed bellhousing and get the bearing back onto the fork, and the fork onto the pivot ball. its easier for you to fiddle with it than me try to explain exactly how to do it, but you have to get the pivot ball slotted in to the arm as you slide the bearing along the input shaft towards the gearbox. took the boy about 5 mins going at it through the hole. Would recommend putting a plate over the hole afterwards to stop muck getting in.
Me being such a sad git, i even did a video of the clutch working to make sure it was ok.
Must dash, the boy is calling from the bellhousing!
John
If box is still in car with engine attached as happened to us when fiddling with clutch slave cylinder, we drilled an 83mm hole in bottom of bellhousing exactly on the casting numbers/words on the bottom of the bellhousing. my boy was able to get his entire body into sed bellhousing and get the bearing back onto the fork, and the fork onto the pivot ball. its easier for you to fiddle with it than me try to explain exactly how to do it, but you have to get the pivot ball slotted in to the arm as you slide the bearing along the input shaft towards the gearbox. took the boy about 5 mins going at it through the hole. Would recommend putting a plate over the hole afterwards to stop muck getting in.
Me being such a sad git, i even did a video of the clutch working to make sure it was ok.
Must dash, the boy is calling from the bellhousing!
John
Quinny said:
Not quite the same, but just doing this on my mates Griff with T5.. the only way I could get the arm out, was to remove the pivot..


This is what my cluch arm looked like after fitting a new cluch and only 6 miles before it failed so I got an uprated one from JE Engineering.

If I evey change a cluch again I would change the lot regardles the mileage as its got to be better than taking the engine back out.
I quite like the idea you can have an access hole in the bottom of the bell but I wouldnt want to weaken the hole setup.
Cambelt
Hi Guys - the box is out and the fork is in good nick. I've seen the slipper pads etc. I did try to fit everything back but failed - it was late and the light was poor so I'll try again when I come to re-assemble for the refit....Haynes says that a tool is required and the process is to remove the bolt etc. We'll see.
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