Replace a toilet - how much, should I get a plumber?
Discussion
So I need to replace the toilet in a house that I am about to rent. Its a close coupled toilet, but it has a slight leak from the cistern base, and it looks pretty tired. I figured I might as well replace it.
Questions I have are:
1) Is it simple DIY job that I can do myself (fairly competent DIYer, just not done much plumbing)
2) Should I get a plumber to do it (I supply a toilet)
3) If I get a plumber, how long would it take and how much might this cost?
4) What considerations do I neeed to take into account to make the replacement easy as possible?
Thanks for all the help, oh and if anyone knows or is a plumber local to Weybridge/Addlestone area, I might have a job for you!
Questions I have are:
1) Is it simple DIY job that I can do myself (fairly competent DIYer, just not done much plumbing)
2) Should I get a plumber to do it (I supply a toilet)
3) If I get a plumber, how long would it take and how much might this cost?
4) What considerations do I neeed to take into account to make the replacement easy as possible?
Thanks for all the help, oh and if anyone knows or is a plumber local to Weybridge/Addlestone area, I might have a job for you!
I replaced the syphon flap valve on a close coupled toilet the other month, it took about half an hour (including using a tiny cup to remove all the water from the cistern!) and you just need to undo the water feed pipe and then the bolt holding the cistern to the pan pretty much - when doing so I also replaced the seal between the pan and cistern which would presumably fix your leak.
Just buy a seal from B&Q and give it a go yourself, it's really not that hard and it'll save you plenty.
Just buy a seal from B&Q and give it a go yourself, it's really not that hard and it'll save you plenty.
Simple job, you say that you're ok when it comes to DIY - get on with it then I'd say. I changed one over in my house earlier this year. If you know a good plumber who will only charge you a small amount then it may be worth it if you just dont fancy it. From what I encountered I'd suggest that you dont bother trying to salvage any fittings from the old system especially if it's a little tired (just in case you were considering it).
Thakns for the input guys.
To clarify:
It is a house I am about to rent out (i.e. I am the landlord)
In regards to the siphon, I replaced that a few months back, and the problem has come from the donut washer between the cistern and the bowl. The new one was too thick, and hence when I fitted it, the wall screws for the cistern did not line up, so would need new holes in the wall, and the plumbing extended (water feed etc).
So I decided to use the old donut washer, which was a bad mistake, as although it fits, and the screws line up, the bugger leaks slightly. I think the problem actaully is a poor design/quality toilet.
The link between the cistern and the bowl is a plastic fitting (screwed into the bowl), and i think it flexes slightly (maybe due to age, or a poor fitting cistern on the wall), hence creates an opening due to the flex.
This diagram may help:
Beige items are the cistern and bowl
Red is the plastic connection between the cistern and bowl
Blue is the donut washer (the point at which it leaks).
I was thinking just replace the whole thing (since it may be plastic connection causing the issue), but now maybe I should try with a new washer and fitting the cistern a little better, and using flexible hoses for the water feed if I need to.
Again, advice please..... should I just throw £50 at it and get a plumber to sort it?
To clarify:
It is a house I am about to rent out (i.e. I am the landlord)
In regards to the siphon, I replaced that a few months back, and the problem has come from the donut washer between the cistern and the bowl. The new one was too thick, and hence when I fitted it, the wall screws for the cistern did not line up, so would need new holes in the wall, and the plumbing extended (water feed etc).
So I decided to use the old donut washer, which was a bad mistake, as although it fits, and the screws line up, the bugger leaks slightly. I think the problem actaully is a poor design/quality toilet.
The link between the cistern and the bowl is a plastic fitting (screwed into the bowl), and i think it flexes slightly (maybe due to age, or a poor fitting cistern on the wall), hence creates an opening due to the flex.
This diagram may help:
Beige items are the cistern and bowl
Red is the plastic connection between the cistern and bowl
Blue is the donut washer (the point at which it leaks).
I was thinking just replace the whole thing (since it may be plastic connection causing the issue), but now maybe I should try with a new washer and fitting the cistern a little better, and using flexible hoses for the water feed if I need to.
Again, advice please..... should I just throw £50 at it and get a plumber to sort it?
They usually have a rubber washer both sides.. Where the pipe goes into the bottom of the cistern, inside the cistern there will be a big plastic nut. tighten this up...
ETA or belts and braces, get 2 new washers (maybe even some silicone if you really want to go to town) then tighten it up.
ETA or belts and braces, get 2 new washers (maybe even some silicone if you really want to go to town) then tighten it up.
Edited by oOTomOo on Wednesday 6th October 14:48
Thanks mate - my quick diagram forgot to show that! lol.
I could try a new donut on the cistern side, tighten the nut again, and fix with new screw holes in the wall and see if that solves it. If it works, great, else might just replace the whole thing - its a PITA having to worry about it causing a problem later on, and then having to go and sort it out.
Only thing now then is if I fit a new donut washer, it will raise the cistern which will mean my water feed no longer reaches - is this easily resolved?
I could try a new donut on the cistern side, tighten the nut again, and fix with new screw holes in the wall and see if that solves it. If it works, great, else might just replace the whole thing - its a PITA having to worry about it causing a problem later on, and then having to go and sort it out.
Only thing now then is if I fit a new donut washer, it will raise the cistern which will mean my water feed no longer reaches - is this easily resolved?
Flexi pipe ftw!
ETA: depending on how securely the copper pipe is attached to the wall it will move around a few cm or so when disconnected from the cistern. it probably will fit.
If not while you're out shopping for washers get some pipe cutters and some compression fitting flexi pipe. Job jobbed.
ETA: depending on how securely the copper pipe is attached to the wall it will move around a few cm or so when disconnected from the cistern. it probably will fit.
If not while you're out shopping for washers get some pipe cutters and some compression fitting flexi pipe. Job jobbed.
Edited by oOTomOo on Wednesday 6th October 14:56
I'd say have a go yourself, but I'm a plumber so its easy for me to say that.
The hardest bit will be connecting the cold water to it. The waste outlets are usually in the same positions if not there are many types of pan connectors avaiable.
Some tips, when screwing the cistern to the wall use brass screws and rubber tap washers. Brass won't corrode with water and the washers will stop the screws damaging the china.
Also use proper brass pan screws to fix the pan to the floor.
The hardest bit will be connecting the cold water to it. The waste outlets are usually in the same positions if not there are many types of pan connectors avaiable.
Some tips, when screwing the cistern to the wall use brass screws and rubber tap washers. Brass won't corrode with water and the washers will stop the screws damaging the china.
Also use proper brass pan screws to fix the pan to the floor.
That's not actually a close-coupled toilet. It's more like a low-level, although it may be Ideal Standard Space.
There isn't any need for a rubber washer OUTSIDE the cistern, it should be inside. Very occasionaly there may be a fibre one on the outside, but usually the nut bears directly on the china. Sometimes the inside of the cistern is a little rough. We normally use plumbers mait on it.
There isn't any need for a rubber washer OUTSIDE the cistern, it should be inside. Very occasionaly there may be a fibre one on the outside, but usually the nut bears directly on the china. Sometimes the inside of the cistern is a little rough. We normally use plumbers mait on it.
Ferg said:
That's not actually a close-coupled toilet. It's more like a low-level.
That was my first thoughts. I saw a toilet the other day that seemed to have a plastic 90' section that converted a low level to a close couple.That's what the diagram made me think of.
Anyway......what type of donut are you using? You can get quite solid ones - rubber, or foam ones that compress more easily.
Gingerbread Man said:
Ferg said:
That's not actually a close-coupled toilet. It's more like a low-level.
That was my first thoughts. I saw a toilet the other day that seemed to have a plastic 90' section that converted a low level to a close couple.That's what the diagram made me think of.
Anyway......what type of donut are you using? You can get quite solid ones - rubber, or foam ones that compress more easily.
Guys, I think you may have hit the nail on the head here. It is a Twyfords (approx 12 years old), and the washer is definately on the outside of the cistern. The one in the replacent ciphon kit was a firm rubber one (that caused the cistern to lift higher than originaly setup), but the one on it currently (the old one) is more a foam type one.
I might try to get another foam one. But I cannot see how it would fit inside.
Anyone know what the plastic connection thing is called? Could it need to be replaced? Can it be replaced?
I might try to get another foam one. But I cannot see how it would fit inside.
Anyone know what the plastic connection thing is called? Could it need to be replaced? Can it be replaced?
Can you take a picture of this plastic fitting? I really don't know what you are talking about 
as there should be no 'connection' between the pan and the cistern besides the donut washer if it's a close couple unit.
The only thing I can think of what it may be is the thing that is screwed to the bottom on the cistern via the siphon with two screw holes that hold the cistern to the pan.
as there should be no 'connection' between the pan and the cistern besides the donut washer if it's a close couple unit. The only thing I can think of what it may be is the thing that is screwed to the bottom on the cistern via the siphon with two screw holes that hold the cistern to the pan.
No. You're right it IS a close coupled toilet, it's just an unusual one. You have a bit that bolts onto the rear of the pan which converts it.
Make sure the syphon-to-cistern joint is good first, then put a new donut washer on. You MIGHT like to puts ome plumbers mait on either side of the washer, OR silicone. Plumbers Mait is best because you don't have to worry about drying time or disturbing the joint later.
Make sure the syphon-to-cistern joint is good first, then put a new donut washer on. You MIGHT like to puts ome plumbers mait on either side of the washer, OR silicone. Plumbers Mait is best because you don't have to worry about drying time or disturbing the joint later.
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