ENGINE REMOVAL
ENGINE REMOVAL
Author
Discussion

C Andy

Original Poster:

13 posts

209 months

Monday 11th October 2010
quotequote all
I need to remove the engine from my S3 and am currently considering the best approach - ideally I would like to remove the engine with the exhaust manifolds still attached to the heads as I figure I have a better chance of removing them successfully without shearing any bolts when the engine is on the bench.

I would be grateful if anyone who has already done this could offer advice:

1) Although it looks unlikely, is it possible to remove the engine with the exhaust manifolds
still attached to the heads?

2) Perhaps more likely, is it possible to remove the engine & gearbox as a single unit with the
exhaust manifolds still attached?

3) What is generally considered to be the best approach?

4) Are there any other things to watch out for, other than earthing straps, speedo
drive etc.. I notice that the distributor is very close to the bulkhead and wonder whether
it could be vulnerable particularly if you remove the engine & gearbox together.

Thanks




Barkychoc

7,848 posts

233 months

Monday 11th October 2010
quotequote all
V8 comes out with manifolds on, and its a 90 degree Vee on the V8, V6 Vee is only 60 degree so I reckon it should come out easily with manifolds on.

I'd recommend pulling it out with the manfolds on anyway - the straps are then unable to move if they are threaded through the manifolds.

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

226 months

Monday 11th October 2010
quotequote all
Manifolds on but remove the distributor, easier i think without the gearbox. BUT once the gearbox has the propshaft removed (and it just slides out) the the gearbox oil (ATF) just floods out. watch your drive

Mr Plow

1,193 posts

257 months

Tuesday 12th October 2010
quotequote all
Hi

The engine will come out with the manifolds attached.

I have only ever taken mine out with the gearbox attached so can't comment whether it is easier with or without it attached.

One of my fuel pipes, can't remember whether it is the feed or return is attached to the engine/gearbox with a P clip. The clip is attached to either the head or by using one of the gearbox bolts. This is on the passenger side. This caught me out the first time I removed the engine.

As Norman said it is easier to remove the distributor, but you can get away with just removing the distributor cap and rotor arm, although you will need to keep an eye on this when the engine first comes free.

If i think of anything else I will pst again.

Cheers

Liam

C Andy

Original Poster:

13 posts

209 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
Thanks for all your inputs.

It's good to hear that I can get away with removing the engine with the manifolds still attached and leave the gearbox in situ.

However, it does look very tight as I will only be able to move the engine forward by approx 1" before the manifolds touch one of the chassis cross members - this doesn't sound enough to sufficiently disengage the gearbox input shaft from the clutch assembly. Is it likely that I will also need to move the gearbox back a little?


blues3

248 posts

194 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all
Out of interest, where's the best lifting point on the engine? There doesn't seem to be anywhere that stands out.

aero340

272 posts

241 months

Tuesday 26th October 2010
quotequote all



Edited by aero340 on Tuesday 26th October 23:50

Ceejay73

489 posts

257 months

Wednesday 27th October 2010
quotequote all
Mr Plow said:
Hi

The engine will come out with the manifolds attached.

I have only ever taken mine out with the gearbox attached so can't comment whether it is easier with or without it attached.
I think this maybe the key point.

C Andy said:


However, it does look very tight as I will only be able to move the engine forward by approx 1" before the manifolds touch one of the chassis cross members - this doesn't sound enough to sufficiently disengage the gearbox input shaft from the clutch assembly. Is it likely that I will also need to move the gearbox back a little?

My observations have brought me to the same conclusion as C Andy. If you are lifting the engine and box then when everything is loose the whole thing can be tilted a long way,with enough ground clearance, enabling the manifolds to be left in situ. If you are lifting just the engine, as I intend, I think it is best to remove manifolds, lift engine to remove mounts, lower engine again and the slide forward enough to ensure input shaft is clear of the clutch pressure plate before the final lift.
This is ofcourse just how I see it from my time mulling it over in the garage and would love to hear if anyone has lifted engine minus the 'box without removing the manifolds.

Cheers,
Carl.