Installing big tiles?
Discussion
I've just laid 13 metres squared of 600x600 floow tiles, and 19m^2 of 600x300 wall tiles - as has been said, the walls (or floors) need to be bang on to get the levels right, but because mine is effectively a new build, they went down just fine.
They look good to me, and if I can do them, I reckon anyone can
They look good to me, and if I can do them, I reckon anyone can
Op-
make sure the Walls are flat- that's an obvious one.
Secondly, spend plenty of time setting out. Conventional wisdom states you start from the middle of a given wall- measure and check this doesn't leave any small cuts to edges, window etc, and check vertically too- ie, no small cuts to the ceiling or floor. If it does leave a small cut to edges, start with the centre line as the middle of a tile, thus removing one from a course, and leaving a cut half a tile bigger to the edges.
Pm me dimensions if you are worried, I will set it out for you.
Unibond your Walls- if you go straight over the paint, the adhesive is only bonding to the paint, the weight of the tiles will be a fair amount- if the bond to the paint is stronger than the paint to the substrate, they will come off.
Use bal adhesive- I would say goldstar in this instance.
Use a trowel- apply to the Walls, not the back of the tiles. Ensure the adhesive is applied in one direction- this will leave all of the ridges in one direction- this means that air can escape from behind the tile and it will be far easier to get flat- often overlooked, yet one easy tip to get an easy good finish.
Work upwards from the batten, 2 or 3 courses at a time (or whatever you are comfy doing) and work round the room- don't do one wall, move onto the next- if the levels are out slightly it's far easier to work a couple if courses at a time. When the tiles are set, remove batten and insert the cut below it.
For cutting, hire a rubi ts-60 cutter- it will cut the tile you have easily.
Use spacer pegs- not crosses, pegs are hollow, so can be crushed slightly if needed to maintain a level.
Feel free to pm me if you need anything else
make sure the Walls are flat- that's an obvious one.
Secondly, spend plenty of time setting out. Conventional wisdom states you start from the middle of a given wall- measure and check this doesn't leave any small cuts to edges, window etc, and check vertically too- ie, no small cuts to the ceiling or floor. If it does leave a small cut to edges, start with the centre line as the middle of a tile, thus removing one from a course, and leaving a cut half a tile bigger to the edges.
Pm me dimensions if you are worried, I will set it out for you.
Unibond your Walls- if you go straight over the paint, the adhesive is only bonding to the paint, the weight of the tiles will be a fair amount- if the bond to the paint is stronger than the paint to the substrate, they will come off.
Use bal adhesive- I would say goldstar in this instance.
Use a trowel- apply to the Walls, not the back of the tiles. Ensure the adhesive is applied in one direction- this will leave all of the ridges in one direction- this means that air can escape from behind the tile and it will be far easier to get flat- often overlooked, yet one easy tip to get an easy good finish.
Work upwards from the batten, 2 or 3 courses at a time (or whatever you are comfy doing) and work round the room- don't do one wall, move onto the next- if the levels are out slightly it's far easier to work a couple if courses at a time. When the tiles are set, remove batten and insert the cut below it.
For cutting, hire a rubi ts-60 cutter- it will cut the tile you have easily.
Use spacer pegs- not crosses, pegs are hollow, so can be crushed slightly if needed to maintain a level.
Feel free to pm me if you need anything else
Absolutely serious answer - get a quote from a tiler. I re-tiled our bathroom last year, we had a quote from someone for £400, after many weekends and much swearing, I wish I'd have paid - I'm sure they would have done a better job too. I'm normally happy doign most things DIY but I vowed never to tile again.
Cheers guys - I quite enjoy tiling to be honest and have done a few rooms in the past, but nothing using tiles this size.
Forgot about bonding the wall - will make sure I do this.
Have already planned the walls - the main one behind the bath is 1880 wide, so plan is to have 1x whole tile on each side to the ceiling and then have natural slate tiles (150x300) in the middle in a brick pattern to break it up (will also allow me to lose the odd measurement without being too obvious)
Floor is in the same tile, and then 2 return walls either end of the bath about 800 deep and job done
Will post some photos when done - or else be calling a tiler if they all fall off!
Forgot about bonding the wall - will make sure I do this.
Have already planned the walls - the main one behind the bath is 1880 wide, so plan is to have 1x whole tile on each side to the ceiling and then have natural slate tiles (150x300) in the middle in a brick pattern to break it up (will also allow me to lose the odd measurement without being too obvious)
Floor is in the same tile, and then 2 return walls either end of the bath about 800 deep and job done
Will post some photos when done - or else be calling a tiler if they all fall off!
Sounds like it will look good when done, but before you install the slate-
seal it with hg impregnator, 2 coats. This will stop anything soaking into the top surface.
Wipe the backs of them, being natural they tend to be dusty and you can end up with the same effect as with the paint.
Also, use a large notched trowel or butter the backs of the slate to ensure good contact from adhesive to wall as skates are rarely flat backed.
Check your adhesive- make sure it is suitable- most will only spec powder/cement based for unstalling slates.
Also check the wall- if it's plasterboard, check the weights- you are adding a lot of weight. 25kg/sq m is about the limit.
When complete, use hg golvpolish to seal the slate.
seal it with hg impregnator, 2 coats. This will stop anything soaking into the top surface.
Wipe the backs of them, being natural they tend to be dusty and you can end up with the same effect as with the paint.
Also, use a large notched trowel or butter the backs of the slate to ensure good contact from adhesive to wall as skates are rarely flat backed.
Check your adhesive- make sure it is suitable- most will only spec powder/cement based for unstalling slates.
Also check the wall- if it's plasterboard, check the weights- you are adding a lot of weight. 25kg/sq m is about the limit.
When complete, use hg golvpolish to seal the slate.
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