idle problem
idle problem
Author
Discussion

jonesy80

Original Poster:

98 posts

192 months

Sunday 17th October 2010
quotequote all
My TVR S2 doesn't seem to want to idle for very long. It tends to hunt slightly and eventually cuts out. It can then be difficult to start unless I use the throttle.

Just to eliminate one possibility does it matter which way round the two plugs go onto the AFM - there is a white plug and a black plug which should go on to the top afm?

ketvrin

3,504 posts

238 months

Sunday 17th October 2010
quotequote all
jonesy80 said:
Just to eliminate one possibility does it matter which way round the two plugs go onto the AFM - there is a white plug and a black plug which should go on to the top afm?
Yes there is... on mine the black plug is on the top AFM



once you have that sorted, if it still doesnt tick over smoothly try cleaning the ISCV - thats that alloy thing to the right of the Swirl Tank in the above pic...

you could check it first to see if disconnecting it makes any difference.

if its clean and you still have the problem it could be the Throttle Pot... the list goes on... check one at a time and let us know how you get on.

it might be a good idea to tell us how it was running before you did anything and then what you did.

dont worry as it will probably be something simple

K wink

jonesy80

Original Poster:

98 posts

192 months

Sunday 17th October 2010
quotequote all
Cheers Kev (wish my car looked that clean under the bonnet)

Unfortunately the car was running like it when i picked it up last week.

My list of things to check then looks like this:

1. Plugs on AFM.
2. Clean ISCV - thanks for pointing out where it was.
3. Throttle pot - I assume if the car runs better when this is disconnected it narrows it down to ISCV / Throttle pot?
4. Multiway plug connector located under coil - apparently for all sensor signals back to ECU.
5. Yellow connector under steering column - have read it can cause problems bt not sure what this is actually for?

Will let you know how it goes.

ketvrin

3,504 posts

238 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
jonesy80 said:
1. Plugs on AFM.
2. Clean ISCV - thanks for pointing out where it was.
3. Throttle pot - I assume if the car runs better when this is disconnected it narrows it down to ISCV / Throttle pot?
4. Multiway plug connector located under coil - apparently for all sensor signals back to ECU.
5. Yellow connector under steering column - have read it can cause problems bt not sure what this is actually for?
In order, I think I would...

1 check the connectors on the AFM's - since you have doubts
2 Look (listen) for airleaks in the flexi-pipe between the AFM and throttle
3 look for airleaks from the plenum to the brake servo
4 disconnect the TP so see if the tickover stabilises (if you replace it, use an old rover 25 unit from a scrappy)
5 check plugs condition and gaps
6 check ignition leads, distributor cap and rotor (if you start her up in the dark, you will be able to see if you have any shorts )
7 check and clean if necessary the ISCV

the multi-connector under the coil should be checked as you say - for this problem I would say have the engine ticking over and then wiggle (or waggle) each wire and listen for a change in engine note/stability.

the yellow connector under the dash has one supply wire which tends to overheat and burn out causing lots of problems before it finally goes - you should check to see if your car still has one of these as most will have now been removed (even Tinks has changed his now hehe ) no doubt someone will provide a picture soon.

I think we could do with the search facility coming back on line on PH - its been down for ages ??

anyway, good luck, what you are experiencing is well known on here and could be any one or more of the above and probably a few other things too, its just a matter of finding then eliminating the problem.

k wink

jonesy80

Original Poster:

98 posts

192 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
Kev - looks like my weekend is planned already :-D

getting the PH search facility back would definately help :-)

Btw should I be worried that the pipercross air filter I ordered came with a plate that had round ports on it but my AFM's are square (so i used the plated that was already on it).



ketvrin

3,504 posts

238 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
jonesy80 said:
Btw should I be worried that the pipercross air filter I ordered came with a plate that had round ports on it but my AFM's are square (so i used the plated that was already on it).
not sure what you mean ? when I bought my filter there was nothing but the filter... as long as the filter encloses the square holes in the plate that the AFM's are mounted to and doesnt restrict the size of those holes I would say you have no problem.

put a picture up here if you have any doubts

enjoy

K wink

jonesy80

Original Poster:

98 posts

192 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
right have tried disconnecting the TP and this didn't stop the car from cutting out.

have removed the ISCV and tried putting 12v across it and it did nothing so I am assuming it is faulty (unless my putting 12v across was the wrong way tp test it).

Checked for leaks and couldn't detect any (though its hard to tell with the engine running. I did how ever notice that I hear a hiss when I move this hose at the brake servo:



What does this hose do, and if I hear a hiss when i move it to the side does this mean I need to replace something?

Did a visual inspection of the multiway connector under the coil and looked at (gave it a squirt of WD40 but haven't tried the waggle test yet)

Looked under the steering column but couldn't find a yellow connector.

Btw this is a pic of the different air filter plates I was referring to before:





Sorry for all the questions.

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

226 months

Monday 18th October 2010
quotequote all
jonesy80 said:
I did how ever notice that I hear a hiss when I move this hose at the brake servo:



What does this hose do, and if I hear a hiss when i move it to the side does this mean I need to replace something?
That hose is connected to the plenum chambre and provides the vacuum needed to operate the brake servo, if its hissing then you do have an air leak, you need to trace the leak. Now the servo looks in quite poor condition and I suspect that if you run your hand under the servo you will find in very poor condition, its a very common problem. That servo is from a SAAB 9000 and is unobtainable. You wouild have to replace with the later servo and master cylinder both of which are Ford. look in FAQs and there are threads there which will give full details

jonesy80 said:
Looked under the steering column but couldn't find a yellow connector.
The yellow connector was connected to the ignition switch and could well have been replaced already

This is what to look for



jonesy80

Original Poster:

98 posts

192 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
Gerald-TVR said:
That hose is connected to the plenum chambre and provides the vacuum needed to operate the brake servo, if its hissing then you do have an air leak, you need to trace the leak. Now the servo looks in quite poor condition and I suspect that if you run your hand under the servo you will find in very poor condition, its a very common problem. That servo is from a SAAB 9000 and is unobtainable. You wouild have to replace with the later servo and master cylinder both of which are Ford. look in FAQs and there are threads there which will give full details
There isn't a leak normally but if i push on the hose just where it goes into the servo then it hisses.

I have just read the thread on changing to Ford brakes - looks like a lot of work and cost I had not expected. Is there any reason (assuming I can source one) that i can't just fit a second hand Saab servo?


Elfit

573 posts

233 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
Hi Andrew

If it isn't a split hose and the servo is corroded you will need to replace it.

Second hand SAAB servos are stored on the same shelf as hen's teeth. You will be very lucky to find one.

I replaced mine with a second hand XR2i servo and mastercylinder ~ cost £10.99 (inc postage) from ebay.
Replacement is quite easy (once you have the part) especially if you have a small friend who can help tighten the nuts in the footwell whilst you are under the bonnet.
The brake pipes need to be moved a little, but there is plenty of room and the thread is the same.

It's useful to make up a plate to help fix the new servo as the holes need to be slightly altered so it fits. Norman had some at one point. ( Drawing here http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa102/greymrj/T... )

Cheers
Tim


jonesy80

Original Poster:

98 posts

192 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
Elfit said:
I replaced mine with a second hand XR2i servo and mastercylinder ~ cost £10.99 (inc postage) from ebay.
Replacement is quite easy (once you have the part) especially if you have a small friend who can help tighten the nuts in the footwell whilst you are under the bonnet.
The brake pipes need to be moved a little, but there is plenty of room and the thread is the same.
Thanks for the advice Tim. You say that you used an XR2i servo but O notice that is not listed under the possibilities in the FAQ. Do you know what other servos will fit?

Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

226 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
jonesy80 said:
that i can't just fit a second hand Saab servo?
No problem if you can find one but as rare as rocking horse poo!!

Brake Servo

Part Numbers

OE 1666345 (available from Ford dealers at £142.61 + VAT locally)
Girling 4110328
TRW PSA 328

Vehicle fitting information

Vehicle (All non ABS/RHD) Model Year Engine Capacity
Fiesta Mk II (FBD) – 1.3 (FBD) 09.83 – 01.87 1296
Fiesta Mk II (FBD) – 1.3 09.83 – 09.89 1297
Fiesta Mk II (FBD) – 1.6 D (FBD) 04.84 – 02.89 1608
Fiesta Mk III (GFJ) – 1.0 03.89 – 12.95 1001
Fiesta Mk III (GFJ) – 1.1 03.89 – 12.95 1119
Fiesta Mk III (GFJ) – 1.1 03.89 – 12.95 1119
Fiesta Mk III (GFJ) – 1.3 03.89 – 12.95 1297
Fiesta Mk III (GFJ) – 1.3 03.89 – 12.92 1299
Fiesta Mk III (GFJ) – 1.3 CAT 05.91 – 01.97 1299
Fiesta Mk III (GFJ) – 1.4 03.89 – 12.95 1391
Fiesta Mk III (GFJ) – 1.4 03.89 – 12.95 1391
Fiesta Mk III (GFJ) – 1.4 CAT 03.89 – 12.95 1391


Edited by Gerald-TVR on Tuesday 19th October 14:06

hvdweerden

1,739 posts

229 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
and a how to ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqP_B0CI5X4 ( > 6: 30 )

ketvrin

3,504 posts

238 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
jonesy80 said:
this is a pic of the different air filter plates I was referring to before:


ditch the plate with the round holes mate...

the replacement servo (if required) is well covered in the FAQ's as you have been advised, its not that big a job and the XR2i servos are usually available from ebay as Tim says at little cost and always in good nick as they dont get shyyyte thrown up at them from the front wheel.

save yourself some time and dont even bother looking for SAAB units - it's been done to death in the past...

K wink

aero340

272 posts

241 months

Tuesday 19th October 2010
quotequote all
the new plate is proberly for a s3 model, which doesnt have the air flow metres positioned next to the radiator. the airfilter fits onto this plate and 2 hoses connect between the plenum and the airfilter.