Power sanding technique help please
Discussion
Have orbital sander + sanding sheets in v. coarse, coarse, medium and fine.
The jobs in hand are:
1. A beech sink surround and drainer where I need to sand off a coat of old cracked varnish / blackened areas where water has got at the wood, then oil it.
2. (Solid) pine flooring where I need to sand off burns from cinders falling out of the woodburner, then wax it.
Any tips for the sanding? I've never used a power sander before.
Specifically, do you move from one area to the next or run it up and down like a Hoover? How can I tell when the sanding sheets need changing? Also how long can you run the sander at a stretch before it overheats?
It's a Bosch PSS 150 A if that helps.
Thanks.
The jobs in hand are:
1. A beech sink surround and drainer where I need to sand off a coat of old cracked varnish / blackened areas where water has got at the wood, then oil it.
2. (Solid) pine flooring where I need to sand off burns from cinders falling out of the woodburner, then wax it.
Any tips for the sanding? I've never used a power sander before.
Specifically, do you move from one area to the next or run it up and down like a Hoover? How can I tell when the sanding sheets need changing? Also how long can you run the sander at a stretch before it overheats?
It's a Bosch PSS 150 A if that helps.
Thanks.
Mobile Chicane said:
Have orbital sander + sanding sheets in v. coarse, coarse, medium and fine.
The jobs in hand are:
1. A beech sink surround and drainer where I need to sand off a coat of old cracked varnish / blackened areas where water has got at the wood, then oil it.
2. (Solid) pine flooring where I need to sand off burns from cinders falling out of the woodburner, then wax it.
Any tips for the sanding? I've never used a power sander before.
Specifically, do you move from one area to the next or run it up and down like a Hoover? How can I tell when the sanding sheets need changing? Also how long can you run the sander at a stretch before it overheats?
It's a Bosch PSS 150 A if that helps.
Thanks.
They will be smooth! The jobs in hand are:
1. A beech sink surround and drainer where I need to sand off a coat of old cracked varnish / blackened areas where water has got at the wood, then oil it.
2. (Solid) pine flooring where I need to sand off burns from cinders falling out of the woodburner, then wax it.
Any tips for the sanding? I've never used a power sander before.
Specifically, do you move from one area to the next or run it up and down like a Hoover? How can I tell when the sanding sheets need changing? Also how long can you run the sander at a stretch before it overheats?
It's a Bosch PSS 150 A if that helps.
Thanks.
Have you not got a hearth for the wood burner?
Usually just keep using it until you get that electrical fire sort of smell, it seems to be a built in warning. Or when it gets really hot to touch.
I'd start with the finest grade first to see how much material the sander will remove. You can then increase the grit until you get a suitable grade. Obviously, you then move back to the finest grit for finishing.
The reason I say this is that I have a DeWalt orbital sander that is pretty aggresive with a coarse paper.
The reason I say this is that I have a DeWalt orbital sander that is pretty aggresive with a coarse paper.
Start with the coarse and work up to fine, you probably don't need to go through all 4 though depending on how rough the starting point is, or how much material you need to remove.
Keep moving the sander about to ensure you don't over sand a particular spot, and get an even finish - no need to be disciplined to go in stripes or anything.
They can kick up a lot of dust so seal the room first and wear a mask!
Keep moving the sander about to ensure you don't over sand a particular spot, and get an even finish - no need to be disciplined to go in stripes or anything.
They can kick up a lot of dust so seal the room first and wear a mask!
as above, if the burns are inground you may need a floor sander for the weekend.
if you can remove the worktop, its a much easier job as you can put in on a trestle and have it done in 30mins, oiling included. otherwise you're going to have to bust out the elbow grease for the strips along the walls and drainer where the sander won't reach or is in danger of scratching something.
as someone with an open fire and stupid bloody wooden worktops I feel your pain.
don't you rent anyway mc? is the landlord not inclined to help out?
if you can remove the worktop, its a much easier job as you can put in on a trestle and have it done in 30mins, oiling included. otherwise you're going to have to bust out the elbow grease for the strips along the walls and drainer where the sander won't reach or is in danger of scratching something.
as someone with an open fire and stupid bloody wooden worktops I feel your pain.
don't you rent anyway mc? is the landlord not inclined to help out?
shirt said:
don't you rent anyway mc? is the landlord not inclined to help out?
Indeed I do. However he's an odd character and would seemingly paper over the cracks year after year rather than spend what's required to have a job done properly.If this place weren't so fantastic, I'd be out. However I love it here - despite the frustrations - and it's hard to let go.
Thankfully via begging and borrowing I've been able to assemble what's needed to sort things out.
Orbital sanders don't take off as much as you might think, giving a finer finish than if you used the same grade paper by hand. However they can leave tiny circular scratches if too coarse so be careful. The paper will probably clog before it wears out; you can extend the life by giving it a whack with your hand or brushing it with a stiff brush.
Beech is hard; you'll be all day trying to sand off varnish (it will clog badly) and then get through the discoloured areas.
Pine is softer but the burns might be deep - try using the corner of the sander but be careful not to get a visible depression.
As the action is orbital I don't think it makes much difference whether you go in circles or with the grain.
Beech is hard; you'll be all day trying to sand off varnish (it will clog badly) and then get through the discoloured areas.
Pine is softer but the burns might be deep - try using the corner of the sander but be careful not to get a visible depression.
As the action is orbital I don't think it makes much difference whether you go in circles or with the grain.
4 hours of my life I won't get back... the drainer is farked by water ingress all the way through. Sanding down into the wood makes no difference.
I've sanded off the varnish and oiled it so at least it can't get any worse. It did indeed take ages - and despite wearing a mask I'm coughing like Old Man Steptoe.
The moral of the story being: do the job properly in the first place.
Unfortunately my landlord is one of those people who would spoil a ship for a ha'porth of tar.
I've sanded off the varnish and oiled it so at least it can't get any worse. It did indeed take ages - and despite wearing a mask I'm coughing like Old Man Steptoe.
The moral of the story being: do the job properly in the first place.
Unfortunately my landlord is one of those people who would spoil a ship for a ha'porth of tar.
shirt said:
how much did you take off the worktops? I'm surprised the stains didn't come out tbh.
I took off a couple of mm in places. Honestly, it's shagged. If it were mine I'd get a new one.However it does look a lot better now. On the non-watermarked areas the lustre of the beech comes out beautifully, which makes it even sadder that it wasn't treated properly in the first place. FFS.
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