Acid dip Preston area
Discussion
Chris, the outriggers are real bad broken through at the front and where the flat plate is on the main chassis under seat belt anchor the rest is not too bad.
Trailing arms are well gone so I have bought the new ones that Tink was advertising for Kens wife.
I try photo loading later.
Post I was looking for I thought you made a comment on? someone's son who works for a top class restoration co???
Cheers
Ray
Trailing arms are well gone so I have bought the new ones that Tink was advertising for Kens wife.
I try photo loading later.
Post I was looking for I thought you made a comment on? someone's son who works for a top class restoration co???
Cheers
Ray
No wasn't my comment sorry.
Provided big tubes at rear are sound where trailing arms mount then chassis sounds salvageable. If not the jigs do exist I just can't remember who has them - there was a post recently of another V8S chassis restore where chassis was very bad - was it tubbystu's chassis? The garage that did it had jigs I think.
Provided big tubes at rear are sound where trailing arms mount then chassis sounds salvageable. If not the jigs do exist I just can't remember who has them - there was a post recently of another V8S chassis restore where chassis was very bad - was it tubbystu's chassis? The garage that did it had jigs I think.
Not keen on galve, it's just the do we blast or acid dip, the acid dip is not as agressive as blasting can be and a real pro outfit will ensure it's all out.
As I mentioned before I share a building with TORQUE PERFORMANCE the boys build Comp Safari racers from scratch and they are just starting two more Lancia Stratos replicas or should that be Strati?
I have every confidence they will get it perfect. No worries.
As I mentioned before I share a building with TORQUE PERFORMANCE the boys build Comp Safari racers from scratch and they are just starting two more Lancia Stratos replicas or should that be Strati?
I have every confidence they will get it perfect. No worries.
Barkychoc said:
No wasn't my comment sorry.
Provided big tubes at rear are sound where trailing arms mount then chassis sounds salvageable. If not the jigs do exist I just can't remember who has them - there was a post recently of another V8S chassis restore where chassis was very bad - was it tubbystu's chassis?
The garage that did it had jigs I think.
Aye it is my chassis - it is just finally being reassembled now, having taken some 6 months so far Provided big tubes at rear are sound where trailing arms mount then chassis sounds salvageable. If not the jigs do exist I just can't remember who has them - there was a post recently of another V8S chassis restore where chassis was very bad - was it tubbystu's chassis?
The garage that did it had jigs I think.
. Austec do not have the jigs but have remade and have let in approx 40% of the chassis steel work, including new trailing arms and mounting points. The guy doing it builds drag racers so I am pretty confident it'll be fine and true. He has paid good attention to detail - even correcting inherrant faults in the original factory workmanship. It looks stunning right now,
but is going to get covered in waxoyl soon and will lose its pristine look. Pictures to follow. Given mine didn't look too awful until it was blasted, blasting would be my way forward. Until you are back at bare metal you cannot truly see the condition. Some of the rot was coming through from the inside and only visible once blasted and hand inspected.
Acid would remove the surface paint and dirt etc, but is it aggressive enough to show all the rot ?
v8s4me said:
Have you thought about galvanising your chassis?
Galvanising was suggested but the shop who did the powder coat said it wasn't a viable option. Perhaps it is difficult to guarantee all the nooks and crannies get proper cover ? I would have loved to have galved my chassis - but the thing that put me off was the need to drill holes in every sealed bit of tube to let the zinc in / out - and to a lesser extent the risk that it might distort with the heat.
I have powder coated with additional protection on the outriggers (Bilt Hamber Dynax UB) its a sort of black rubbery coating.
I have powder coated with additional protection on the outriggers (Bilt Hamber Dynax UB) its a sort of black rubbery coating.
tubbystu said:
It looks stunning right now,
but is going to get covered in waxoyl soon and will lose its pristine look. Pictures to follow.
WHY
but is going to get covered in waxoyl soon and will lose its pristine look. Pictures to follow.
Protect the vunerable areas like chris [barkychoc] has but dont cover all your hard work in waxoyl. I would rather see a painted/powdercoated chassis as is, you can see any stone chips etc and repair as they happen. waxoyl has its uses but not to cover a now PRISTINE chassis. How many on here have bought their car, looked underneath, seen all the waxoyl, and thought, "that all looks ok" only a few years down the line at MOT time and horror of horror it needs a bodyoff. Just my opinion[and ive done 1 full bodyoff 1 part] dont cover in waxoyl.I would agree (and have done so) - the centre part of my chassis was generally OK - although the oil p155ing out the side of the sump probably helped.
The problem with outriggers is that if they are covered in a thick layer of waxoyl goo they look sound - but what tends to happen I beleive is that at the hidden ends the water gets under the waxoyl, rots the tube in a small area then gets inside.
The corrosion then starts from inside the tube, and thats it you've had it.
I spoke to Bilt Hamber only last week about Dynax UB - I said was it OK that it remains quite soft and rubbery and if you try hard enough you can scrape it off with your nail.
They said they had spent a long time developing it and it had been specifically designed not to form sheets that can trap water underneath.
My front outriggers are coated in it and although early days its holding up fine, its got quite a bit of sandy grit stuck to it thats all, and its certainly been hit by a few stones.
The problem with outriggers is that if they are covered in a thick layer of waxoyl goo they look sound - but what tends to happen I beleive is that at the hidden ends the water gets under the waxoyl, rots the tube in a small area then gets inside.
The corrosion then starts from inside the tube, and thats it you've had it.
I spoke to Bilt Hamber only last week about Dynax UB - I said was it OK that it remains quite soft and rubbery and if you try hard enough you can scrape it off with your nail.
They said they had spent a long time developing it and it had been specifically designed not to form sheets that can trap water underneath.
My front outriggers are coated in it and although early days its holding up fine, its got quite a bit of sandy grit stuck to it thats all, and its certainly been hit by a few stones.
LamboV8S said:
I was reading a post the other night acid dip v shot blast mentioned a place in Preston, now I can't find it !!!!! tried the search of course.
Hi you probably mean Ribble technologies ltd 01772 202227, ask for AndrewRegards Gordon
01253 400230
http://www.pxwheels.com
TJC46 said:
tubbystu said:
It looks stunning right now,
but is going to get covered in waxoyl soon and will lose its pristine look. Pictures to follow.
WHY
but is going to get covered in waxoyl soon and will lose its pristine look. Pictures to follow.
Protect the vunerable areas like chris [barkychoc] has but dont cover all your hard work in waxoyl. I would rather see a painted/powdercoated chassis as is, you can see any stone chips etc and repair as they happen. waxoyl has its uses but not to cover a now PRISTINE chassis. How many on here have bought their car, looked underneath, seen all the waxoyl, and thought, "that all looks ok" only a few years down the line at MOT time and horror of horror it needs a bodyoff. Just my opinion[and ive done 1 full bodyoff 1 part] dont cover in waxoyl.Internal treatment can be repeated whenever deemed sensible without the need for body lift. Much of the rot was cause by water in the chassis rotting from the inside out. When they cut the main rails, water gushed out

The fuel tank cradle has been 100% remade, but using 3mm steel rather than the 1.6mm the factory used. The outriggers have been made using drawn rather than rolled tube, and of a thicker wall section too so they should last much better. All other new steel is also of higher gauge than used by the factory.
With all this extra steel, it might end up notionally heavier, but it was carrying several gallons of water within the chassis so it probably evens out

Full chassis (albeit body on) inspection will become part of the annual service regime - by the bloke that has just built it.
Its been off the road for 7 months so far, and the cost will be more than its worth, so I do not intend to have to do it again, anytime soon.

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