Griffith Engine Bay - Steam Clean or Not?
Discussion
Hi All,
Today's silly question:
Is it possible to steam clean a TVR Griffith engine without causing untold damage to electricals? What needs covering / avoiding?
If so, can it be done with a household steam cleaner (aka wall paper remover) with the right attachments, or does it need industrial pressurized kit?
Today's silly question:
Is it possible to steam clean a TVR Griffith engine without causing untold damage to electricals? What needs covering / avoiding?
If so, can it be done with a household steam cleaner (aka wall paper remover) with the right attachments, or does it need industrial pressurized kit?
You can clean a lot of the engine with a small steam cleaner quite happily. I tend to spray on paraffin (just pour into a household window/bathroom/kitchen cleaner spray bottle), brush and then use the steam cleaner to wash off followed by blast with the airline. It's not going to be anymore of a problem than driving out in bad weather IMHO. Warnings are about monster steam cleaners dampening the whole lot.
From someone who has actually done it
I'd rather clean properly before removing components than run the risk of s
t getting inside after dismantling things like rocker covers, heads, plenum, trumpet base, manifolds, front cover....
From someone who has actually done it
I'd rather clean properly before removing components than run the risk of st getting inside after dismantling things like rocker covers, heads, plenum, trumpet base, manifolds, front cover....R222 sprayed over engine first, dirtiest parts agitated with appropriate brushes etc ... Then cover with tin foil any sensitive electronic bits and wash off with pressure washer from a distance where you're not forcing water into places it's not wanted.
Then towel off with MF's and once done start car and run for a few minutes only to check everything is dried out and working fine. Let cool and then use 303 AP to protect it applied to hoses and all plastics/silicone etc .....
Done it for for years and no issues. Never used a steam cleaner however ... Trick is to actually clean using appropriate multiple purpose cleaner and then use the PW to rinse off and not to force the dirt off.
Then towel off with MF's and once done start car and run for a few minutes only to check everything is dried out and working fine. Let cool and then use 303 AP to protect it applied to hoses and all plastics/silicone etc .....
Done it for for years and no issues. Never used a steam cleaner however ... Trick is to actually clean using appropriate multiple purpose cleaner and then use the PW to rinse off and not to force the dirt off.
Knew that'd get a response 
Tin foil is maliable and allows you to wrap it around stuff and properly stop water getting in as you can form it to the shape you want. Cling film I find is just not as good. Bags are a pain as you can't get them to seal like you can with tin foil.
My engine bay also has completely re-done wiring and no dizzy etc which makes it a bit easier to do, but used to do the engine bay before anyway.
Tin foil is maliable and allows you to wrap it around stuff and properly stop water getting in as you can form it to the shape you want. Cling film I find is just not as good. Bags are a pain as you can't get them to seal like you can with tin foil.
My engine bay also has completely re-done wiring and no dizzy etc which makes it a bit easier to do, but used to do the engine bay before anyway.
It isn't exactly ardous to pull off the dizzy & leads - you really need them out of the way anyway? I just stick an old dizzy cap with a rubber glove over it to protect the dizzy.
I have used the Pressure washer on the LR inner wings / rad etc, but steam cleener with small jet is a lot easier for spot cleaning and the force of the steam prevents standing water to boot.
They are really handy BTW Johnno, at £30 a pop they pay for themselves pretty quickly since you can reduce largely the amounts of solvents used which can get pretty expensive. Old fatty tried mine on his gearbox and went out & bought his own within a couple of days he was so impressed (which in itself was pretty impressive being nothing to with eating)
I have used the Pressure washer on the LR inner wings / rad etc, but steam cleener with small jet is a lot easier for spot cleaning and the force of the steam prevents standing water to boot.
They are really handy BTW Johnno, at £30 a pop they pay for themselves pretty quickly since you can reduce largely the amounts of solvents used which can get pretty expensive. Old fatty tried mine on his gearbox and went out & bought his own within a couple of days he was so impressed (which in itself was pretty impressive being nothing to with eating
)I've got access to one . . . My mothers never that impressed when I volunteer the info that it's for use in the engine bay
I don't use solvents in the engine bay unless I absolutely have to and normally that's very very rarely. R222 is a solvent free cleaner so I don't worry about it's damaging affects and is also easily diluted down for general cleaning. Also a good selection of varying brushes etc has always got me through. You'll know as much as anyone though, once it's properly clean and protected you very rarely need to break out anything serious to shift dirt.
Tend to clean and treat mine every 2-3 months, depending on use (only 8k miles this year) and whether it was dry or not. If using solvent then go for Autosmart Tardis superb stuff . . . . .
I don't use solvents in the engine bay unless I absolutely have to and normally that's very very rarely. R222 is a solvent free cleaner so I don't worry about it's damaging affects and is also easily diluted down for general cleaning. Also a good selection of varying brushes etc has always got me through. You'll know as much as anyone though, once it's properly clean and protected you very rarely need to break out anything serious to shift dirt.
Tend to clean and treat mine every 2-3 months, depending on use (only 8k miles this year) and whether it was dry or not. If using solvent then go for Autosmart Tardis
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