E46 330Ci Reliability?
Discussion
Hey guys,
I've been looking at 330Ci's, but I'm not sure whether my pockets are deep enough to run one, seen some horror stories on the internet so I have a few questions, as this would solve my 'what car' dilemma that I've been toying with for a while now...
1) Would I get a good one for 6.5k?
2) Do winter tyres make them drivable in winter?
3) Roughly how much do they cost to run in mechanical work per year? (I can do my own work, up to a point, like oil, replacing basic parts, etc)
4) I don't see the point in keeping the service history up on an 03 plate (Which is likely what I can afford), so I was thinking of doing my own oil service every 6k or so (6 months) and punting it into a good independant for the Inspections?
Basically I want to know if I'm likely to get a very solid car for 6.5k that'll last 3-4 years
Thanks!
I've been looking at 330Ci's, but I'm not sure whether my pockets are deep enough to run one, seen some horror stories on the internet so I have a few questions, as this would solve my 'what car' dilemma that I've been toying with for a while now...
1) Would I get a good one for 6.5k?
2) Do winter tyres make them drivable in winter?
3) Roughly how much do they cost to run in mechanical work per year? (I can do my own work, up to a point, like oil, replacing basic parts, etc)
4) I don't see the point in keeping the service history up on an 03 plate (Which is likely what I can afford), so I was thinking of doing my own oil service every 6k or so (6 months) and punting it into a good independant for the Inspections?
Basically I want to know if I'm likely to get a very solid car for 6.5k that'll last 3-4 years
Thanks!
T84 said:
Hey guys,
I've been looking at 330Ci's, but I'm not sure whether my pockets are deep enough to run one, seen some horror stories on the internet so I have a few questions, as this would solve my 'what car' dilemma that I've been toying with for a while now...
1) Would I get a good one for 6.5k?
2) Do winter tyres make them drivable in winter?
3) Roughly how much do they cost to run in mechanical work per year? (I can do my own work, up to a point, like oil, replacing basic parts, etc)
4) I don't see the point in keeping the service history up on an 03 plate (Which is likely what I can afford), so I was thinking of doing my own oil service every 6k or so (6 months) and punting it into a good independant for the Inspections?
Basically I want to know if I'm likely to get a very solid car for 6.5k that'll last 3-4 years
Thanks!
Hi,I've been looking at 330Ci's, but I'm not sure whether my pockets are deep enough to run one, seen some horror stories on the internet so I have a few questions, as this would solve my 'what car' dilemma that I've been toying with for a while now...
1) Would I get a good one for 6.5k?
2) Do winter tyres make them drivable in winter?
3) Roughly how much do they cost to run in mechanical work per year? (I can do my own work, up to a point, like oil, replacing basic parts, etc)
4) I don't see the point in keeping the service history up on an 03 plate (Which is likely what I can afford), so I was thinking of doing my own oil service every 6k or so (6 months) and punting it into a good independant for the Inspections?
Basically I want to know if I'm likely to get a very solid car for 6.5k that'll last 3-4 years
Thanks!
I would have thought a 3.0 with a manual box wouldn't be a money pit. I say manual ahead of auto as the cost of manual box repairs will be less than that of an auto (an this coming from an auto fan).
I ran a 325i auto E46 for 2 years with no real issues. AFAIK the main issues are:
water pump @ 80k plus can go
suspension issues at similiar mileage (but what car doesn't)
passenger occupancy sensor mat - airbag light intermittently comes on
cost of fuel!
Servicing is not expensive - OIL, INSP 1, OIL INSP 2, OIL, etc
An OIL service is circa £150 from a main dealer, and obviously cheaper if you DIY or use independants
INSP2 is the most expensive and will be £330 ish from a main dealer - ask for their 4+ deal and barter them off against each other.
I'm looking to sell my 520D and buy a 330i/ci for around 6-7k in the next few weeks, so any more advice from anyone would be good
had mine since may 09. facelift 03 plate that was on 71k and is now around 87k. iirc had the rear wisbone mounts/bushes and suspension bushes replaced with the powerflex versions. £260
thats it, aside from servicing tyres and fuel. 6.5k will get you a prefacelift one, and a facelift if your lucky.
you could do oil changes etc yourself,but most people buying these cars want to see ideally FBMWSH or that its been serviced at a decent indy.
they do like to use oil
overall mines been very,very reliable. it just hates snow
thats it, aside from servicing tyres and fuel. 6.5k will get you a prefacelift one, and a facelift if your lucky.
you could do oil changes etc yourself,but most people buying these cars want to see ideally FBMWSH or that its been serviced at a decent indy.
they do like to use oil
overall mines been very,very reliable. it just hates snow
I have had my 330ci for two years now and in that time i have had an
oil service £40
Inspection 2 £300
Service history will help resale and probably make the car worth £500 more
Oil level sensor (common fault check it on the cars you look at) £120
Tyres have lasted 15k on the rear
pads are due now as is a coolant change
MOST IMPORTANTLY the front rear wishbone bushes, they go on every 330 and have gone on mine at 45k miles, upgrade to powerflex as stated. Tracking is also important and can go on these cars.
Get on e46zone and e46fanatics for some great tips and guides on replacing parts that commonly fail on these.
I average 30 mpg, its an auto too. check for the "thud" into reverse a tell tale sign the box is going.
Dont read into the horror stories you only ever hear the bad stuff on the net, not the people that drive them day in day out without fault
Make sure you take into account what service is due next on the ones you look at inspection 2 is the most expensive and only comes around every 45k
By the way these things are HOPELESS in the snow cant imagine winter tyres improving them significantly.
As for price mine was for sale not long ago: 2001 40k miles, FBMSH, insp 2 just done, IMMACULATE and didnt even get a sniff at £6,800 so i kept it, this is leading me to believe you can get a minter within your budget.
Good luck
oil service £40
Inspection 2 £300
Service history will help resale and probably make the car worth £500 more
Oil level sensor (common fault check it on the cars you look at) £120
Tyres have lasted 15k on the rear
pads are due now as is a coolant change
MOST IMPORTANTLY the front rear wishbone bushes, they go on every 330 and have gone on mine at 45k miles, upgrade to powerflex as stated. Tracking is also important and can go on these cars.
Get on e46zone and e46fanatics for some great tips and guides on replacing parts that commonly fail on these.
I average 30 mpg, its an auto too. check for the "thud" into reverse a tell tale sign the box is going.
Dont read into the horror stories you only ever hear the bad stuff on the net, not the people that drive them day in day out without fault
Make sure you take into account what service is due next on the ones you look at inspection 2 is the most expensive and only comes around every 45k
By the way these things are HOPELESS in the snow cant imagine winter tyres improving them significantly.
As for price mine was for sale not long ago: 2001 40k miles, FBMSH, insp 2 just done, IMMACULATE and didnt even get a sniff at £6,800 so i kept it, this is leading me to believe you can get a minter within your budget.
Good luck
Edited by taylor86 on Monday 1st November 18:52
I got stuck 3 times last winter, albeit on private roads over night with little to no gritting, i am not a silly driver, i had to leave my car on the drive for the whole of jan when it snowed. Not a problem as i had use of another vehicle.
If anyone knows of winter tyres that work then i may try them out otherwise i will just stick to walking when its snowy/icy conditions!
If anyone knows of winter tyres that work then i may try them out otherwise i will just stick to walking when its snowy/icy conditions!
It's getting a bit O/T, but has anyone actually driven in snow with winter tyres? I did last winter, albeit in a FWD hatchback, but they were a revelation. The difference really is night and day!
Edited to add: Just remembered, all the taxis here are Merc E-class and they do just fine in winter on their snow tyres.
Edited to add: Just remembered, all the taxis here are Merc E-class and they do just fine in winter on their snow tyres.
Edited by ghibbett on Monday 1st November 19:57
If your commute is main roads you should be fine but where i live it is all country lanes that never get proper gritting.
If winter tyres are effective then go for it.
I do feel that the UK goes bananas at the first sight of ice though and im probably not doing much to help the situation!
If winter tyres are effective then go for it.
I do feel that the UK goes bananas at the first sight of ice though and im probably not doing much to help the situation!
I ran one of these (a 2001 X plate) for 50k miles. Well was a 330i Sport. Had 48k on when I got it in 2004. Was fault free except for an expansion tank, repaired under warranty (took out warranty direct).
Excellent bit of kit!
Servicing is relatively cheap compared to my M3 anyway.....
Tyres quite dear.
Go for it.
Excellent bit of kit!
Servicing is relatively cheap compared to my M3 anyway.....
Tyres quite dear.
Go for it.
I've had my 2005 330ci M sport vert for 2 years now and as she approaches her 5th b'day, have had very little hassle. Main costs have been main dealer servicing (I am maintaininng the main dealer warranty). Servicing so far has been oil service and inspection 2.
On inspection 2, only faults found were cracks appearing in the alternator belt (£125 to supply and fit) and "dirty" brake fluid (£75 to supply).
I have found my 330 to be a solid and good road holding car, if pushed it can realise some lift off oversteer, but you have to be really pushing it to get in this situ.
As for snow, I drove it throughout the snow we suffered early this year and last year. It can be a tad nerve wracking but I got through ok. TBH running a car on elastic band tyres, rear wheel drive etc. is never going to be totally condusive to snow and ice, but by taking it easy and using low down gears (mine is a tiptronic auto) then you can realise snow travel.
On inspection 2, only faults found were cracks appearing in the alternator belt (£125 to supply and fit) and "dirty" brake fluid (£75 to supply).
I have found my 330 to be a solid and good road holding car, if pushed it can realise some lift off oversteer, but you have to be really pushing it to get in this situ.
As for snow, I drove it throughout the snow we suffered early this year and last year. It can be a tad nerve wracking but I got through ok. TBH running a car on elastic band tyres, rear wheel drive etc. is never going to be totally condusive to snow and ice, but by taking it easy and using low down gears (mine is a tiptronic auto) then you can realise snow travel.
T84 said:
I'm 16mi away from work, may have to take this off the list!
on main,gritted roads its fine. just be gentle on the throttle, and VERY gentle when coming out of corners etc. i will admit i did get stuck several times in the snow but 1)we did have rather alot(buckinghamshire)2)it was my first rwd experience in the snow and i didnt take it seriously enough, i did have 'all weather' falken tyres and if im honest everytime i ventured out it was always bmws i saw abandoned.one thing i did find to help was to load the boot with 50kg, but untreated work carpark(flat) beat the bmw. yes you can get snow/winter tyres or go extreme and get chains but its extra hassle and expense. so i left mine on the driveway after the 2nd influx of snow and got a lift to work in a mates 4x4 and used my dads vectra if i needed to nip out
T84 said:
Hey guys,
I've been looking at 330Ci's, but I'm not sure whether my pockets are deep enough to run one, seen some horror stories on the internet so I have a few questions, as this would solve my 'what car' dilemma that I've been toying with for a while now...
1) Would I get a good one for 6.5k?
2) Do winter tyres make them drivable in winter?
3) Roughly how much do they cost to run in mechanical work per year? (I can do my own work, up to a point, like oil, replacing basic parts, etc)
4) I don't see the point in keeping the service history up on an 03 plate (Which is likely what I can afford), so I was thinking of doing my own oil service every 6k or so (6 months) and punting it into a good independant for the Inspections?
Basically I want to know if I'm likely to get a very solid car for 6.5k that'll last 3-4 years
Thanks!
I've had a 330Ci for almost a year now. The biggest/most noticable cost for me has been putting super unleaded in it! This is considering my insurance is £650. At one point I was putting £70-£100 in a week which was unnaceptable to me.I've been looking at 330Ci's, but I'm not sure whether my pockets are deep enough to run one, seen some horror stories on the internet so I have a few questions, as this would solve my 'what car' dilemma that I've been toying with for a while now...
1) Would I get a good one for 6.5k?
2) Do winter tyres make them drivable in winter?
3) Roughly how much do they cost to run in mechanical work per year? (I can do my own work, up to a point, like oil, replacing basic parts, etc)
4) I don't see the point in keeping the service history up on an 03 plate (Which is likely what I can afford), so I was thinking of doing my own oil service every 6k or so (6 months) and punting it into a good independant for the Inspections?
Basically I want to know if I'm likely to get a very solid car for 6.5k that'll last 3-4 years
Thanks!
1. I'm not sure about this. I paid £13k at main dealer for a facelift 53 plate with 41k, but it was the car I wanted with £2k of preparation bills: brake discs and pads all round, all belts, oil, coolant, 2 tyres etc. etc. If the car you get needs some jobs doing it's no big deal though as that kind of thing is simples.
2. I've not fitted winter tyres and I'm not planning to! Last winter was fine really, only got stuck going on the deeper snow for fun but these are performance tyres after all. Any ungritted hills are best avoided though. Bear in mind the front brakes if you buy winter tyres and wheels, I think you will need 17s minimum. Same goes for the spacesaver wheel actually, it fits on the front but won't turn, so £20 for a couple of holts tyre inflator thingies.
3/4. I've had an inspection I done which was £200 at main dealer (I'd done 15k in 6 months). This includes oil and microfilter. Inspection II adds plugs and air filter for around £300. However you can buy the 'value' service kit from BMW, I've just picked up an inspection II kit which has plugs, microfilter, air filter and oil filter for £80. Not bad considering plugs alone are around £60 from dealer or £35 elsewhere. I think the total from BMW individually is about £140.
Oil changes from dealer are around £130+VAT, brake fluid aroud £60+VAT.
Regarding other mechanical maladies, I've had to replace the front control arm rear bushes with the powerflex jobbies for £45 off ebay. Very simple job, you just need some copper grease and a vice and hammer to extract the old bushes/metal housing. The originals are £100 for parts from dealer or £250 fitted, hence my DIY. They should also last for a very long time, I'm planning to check the grease in mine from time to time though.
My rad top hose decided to give up one day and put coolant all over the engine. Very dramatic but no harm done and about £22 to replace (plus about £10 for BMW coolant). Simply clips on, you just need a screwdriver. However I did get the BMW assist cover for one year so a man came and patched me up, I simply drove to the dealer and bought a new one.
Had two rear punctures, about £35 to fix but that's just bad luck (and to have both at the same time too). Replaced those tyres when worn out for £260 (Bridgestone RE050A 225/40R18).
I'm planning to keep mine for a loong time so I'm doing gearbox and diff oils now I'm at 60k, approx £15/litre from dealer, I think around 1.1 and 2.1 litres required but don't quote me.
Other costs are £190 for BMW strut brace and £42 for cupholder/coin holder combo! If you have a front armrest they will tell you they can't sell you it in case you spill coffee all over yourself, but the armrest is actually designed so you can put a 330ml can in the rear holder and put the armrest down. Either way you have to order off part number (stupid). This is actually cheaper than ebay as well.
Edited by Pastie Bloater on Tuesday 2nd November 08:24
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