Removing return fuel pipe from S3 & crankshaft pulley
Removing return fuel pipe from S3 & crankshaft pulley
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C Andy

Original Poster:

13 posts

209 months

Monday 1st November 2010
quotequote all
Hi,

I'm tying to remove the return fuel pipe from the top of the fuel pressure regulator (later type in picture) on my S3. The outside case is plastic and the red ring rotates independently. The Haynes manual refers to using a Ford special tool or long nose pliers - however it does not say how or where you need to push, pull, squeeze or twist the union in order to release it - I wonder if you need to push something up underneath the red ring. Can anyone help out?

On a second issue, can anyone confirm that the main large crankshaft pulley has a conventional bolt securing it rather than a left handed thread?

Many Thanks



Gerald-TVR

4,896 posts

226 months

Monday 1st November 2010
quotequote all
C Andy said:
Hi,

I'm tying to remove the return fuel pipe from the top of the fuel pressure regulator
Any particular reason? Its just that the hard plastic fuel pipes can become brittle.

steve j

3,223 posts

257 months

Monday 1st November 2010
quotequote all
Hi Andy, the crankshaft pulley does indeed have a standard bolt and not L/H thread, can I ask why you need that info wavey

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Monday 1st November 2010
quotequote all
The red bit should click off and drop downwards, exposing a little collar underneath that you need to push upwards (long nose pliers) which should allow fitting to pull off.

Same principle as those "instant" plumbing fittings favoured by DIY'ers who don't have any spanners and can't solder !

C Andy

Original Poster:

13 posts

209 months

Monday 1st November 2010
quotequote all
Thanks for responses.

I'm having to replace the engine due to some very worrying mechanical noises from my existing engine. I can then investigate & rebuild my existing engine at my leisure.

If the plastic fuel union has become brittle, then perhaps I am better off removing the fuel pressure regulator from the fuel manifold instead.

The replacement engine has a damaged crankshaft pulley so I plan to change them over.

pie2k1

32 posts

196 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2010
quotequote all
Hi Andy, just a point of note on swapping the crankshaft pulleys over. I'm fairly sure they're balanced to the crankshaft (somebody please correct me if I'm wrong!). I'm engine-out at the moment, with a spare engine to go in the car, however I snapped a chunk out of the crank pully/vibration damper withdrawing it with a puller. Was looking to swap it for the pulley off the other engine, but the pulleys are drilled on the back face presumably to adjust their balance? Which leads to a second point - don't use a three-legged puller on the outer 'wheel' of the pulley! I can supply photos of a suitable puller I knocked up in around 10 minutes from a piece of bar and a bolt if required.

mep12345

2,061 posts

230 months

Tuesday 2nd November 2010
quotequote all
pie2k1 said:
Hi Andy, just a point of note on swapping the crankshaft pulleys over. I'm fairly sure they're balanced to the crankshaft (somebody please correct me if I'm wrong!). I'm engine-out at the moment, with a spare engine to go in the car, however I snapped a chunk out of the crank pully/vibration damper withdrawing it with a puller. Was looking to swap it for the pulley off the other engine, but the pulleys are drilled on the back face presumably to adjust their balance? Which leads to a second point - don't use a three-legged puller on the outer 'wheel' of the pulley! I can supply photos of a suitable puller I knocked up in around 10 minutes from a piece of bar and a bolt if required.
Stevej did the same with a 3 legged puller, which is why he's having my spare pulley (which came off ok with 3 legged puller - not sure about the balancing as there are no drillings on mine so if they are balanced either mine was lucky on build or yours may have been balanced later

Mark