Engine re-build for a person of limited skills!
Discussion
How difficult will I find it? I have a decent tool set, a well lit garage and some limited experience of working on my own cars, including re-building the top end of an SOHC engine.
The engine in question is 1600cc flat 4 from a 70s vintage Beetle. I know very little of these engines, but I'm under the impression they are easy to remove?
The engine is running, but its history is unknown and its leaking oil from somewhere. It probably doesn't need a re-build, but I've bought the car to learn on and to be honest I'm bored and enjoy taking things apart!
My plan would be to strip it to component parts and inspect all items for wear and replace if needed. Will I require any specialist tools?
Any tips or advice will be greatly appreciated, I'll need it!
The engine in question is 1600cc flat 4 from a 70s vintage Beetle. I know very little of these engines, but I'm under the impression they are easy to remove?
The engine is running, but its history is unknown and its leaking oil from somewhere. It probably doesn't need a re-build, but I've bought the car to learn on and to be honest I'm bored and enjoy taking things apart!
My plan would be to strip it to component parts and inspect all items for wear and replace if needed. Will I require any specialist tools?
Any tips or advice will be greatly appreciated, I'll need it!
Very simple engine to start working with really, aircooled and you can pop 'em out in literally minutes from the car (went round to help a friend take the engine out of his camper a while ago, and by the time he'd made a cup of tea, i had it out of the van ;-)
There are a few "idiosyncrasies" with the engine of course, but any of the decent workshop manuals cover all the important bits of info. Things like valve clearances are a bit tricky to set due to the high thermal expansion when runing (as it's air cooled, ally block/head, steel liner, steel pushrod) but that'll be covered by the manual etc
probably an ideal engine to learn on, so get stuck in!!
There are a few "idiosyncrasies" with the engine of course, but any of the decent workshop manuals cover all the important bits of info. Things like valve clearances are a bit tricky to set due to the high thermal expansion when runing (as it's air cooled, ally block/head, steel liner, steel pushrod) but that'll be covered by the manual etc
probably an ideal engine to learn on, so get stuck in!!
Organisation is key. When stripping the engine down, ensure everything is labelled or sorted into boxes and tubs. Don't be tempted to throw it all in one big box, in hope you will remember where everything came from come rebuild time.
Also, take your time. The more time spent checking clearances and torques are to the required spec, the longer the engine will last.
Other than that, you should be fine.
Also, take your time. The more time spent checking clearances and torques are to the required spec, the longer the engine will last.
Other than that, you should be fine.
Following the being organised bit you need to be aware that most of the moving parts must go back in the same place. An exhaust valve for number 3 cylinder +rocker+pushrod+cam follower must all go back in number 3. All these parts have worn into each other in a unique way and will not like being mated with another part.
Get a cardboard box and turn it upside down. Punch 8 holes in it in a line. When you take the valves out insert them in order along the line of holes. Another line of holes will take the pushrods. Other parts can be stood alongside.
The box trick works fine for normal 4 cylinder engines but will get more complicated with separate cylinder heads...perhaps you just need smaller boxes and more of them.
Steve
Get a cardboard box and turn it upside down. Punch 8 holes in it in a line. When you take the valves out insert them in order along the line of holes. Another line of holes will take the pushrods. Other parts can be stood alongside.
The box trick works fine for normal 4 cylinder engines but will get more complicated with separate cylinder heads...perhaps you just need smaller boxes and more of them.
Steve
Also, remember, a digital camera is your friend!! seriously, there are quite a few bits like the tinware or carb linkages etc that are a bit fiddle to setup , and if you've had the engine apart for a while (isnt that always the way;-) sometime one does tend to forget where everything goes, at which point a load of pics is a lifesaver!!
As mentioned, the piston / barrel assys need to be kept "paired" also.
Get some decent plastic stacking boxes to keep all the bits in, then even if stuff gets mixed up you know you haven't lost that vital "M7.3 socket cap head sort shanked taper threaded" bolt that is the only possible thing that will attach vital part A to vital part B ;-)
As mentioned, the piston / barrel assys need to be kept "paired" also.
Get some decent plastic stacking boxes to keep all the bits in, then even if stuff gets mixed up you know you haven't lost that vital "M7.3 socket cap head sort shanked taper threaded" bolt that is the only possible thing that will attach vital part A to vital part B ;-)
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