Aftermarket alarm system disable?
Discussion
Hey guys,
I've got a 1995 328is that has a current drain problem. It's draining 10Amps with everything turned off so I've gone through the usual route of pulling one fuse at a time from the fusebox with no result. The only aftermarket electrical thing on the car is an unbranded alarm system with remote central locking. The only distinguishing (perhaps) feature is that it has 2 blue leds in front of the gearstick.
My question is: Is there any generic way to disable these systems? My battery only lasts 3 days when I don't drive so this is understandably frustrating. It looks like it has been wired in by Stevie Wonder too so I don't really want to start tugging random wires out.
Cheers in advance for any help.
I've got a 1995 328is that has a current drain problem. It's draining 10Amps with everything turned off so I've gone through the usual route of pulling one fuse at a time from the fusebox with no result. The only aftermarket electrical thing on the car is an unbranded alarm system with remote central locking. The only distinguishing (perhaps) feature is that it has 2 blue leds in front of the gearstick.
My question is: Is there any generic way to disable these systems? My battery only lasts 3 days when I don't drive so this is understandably frustrating. It looks like it has been wired in by Stevie Wonder too so I don't really want to start tugging random wires out.
Cheers in advance for any help.
Not if its a Cat 1 type system which has a on board immobiliser it won't, as the car will not start.
If the alarm has any from of immobiliser then unplugging it will immobilise the car, it will however allow you to assess whether the alarm is responsible for the drain.
Blue LED's could be an Autowatch Alarm system, the siren for that alarm should be a bluey/green colour, and if it is it will be a CAT 1 system.
Old disused, but still connected, Tracker systems can cause the issues you are having, they are often a little harder to locate if they were well fitted in the first place.
If the alarm has any from of immobiliser then unplugging it will immobilise the car, it will however allow you to assess whether the alarm is responsible for the drain.
Blue LED's could be an Autowatch Alarm system, the siren for that alarm should be a bluey/green colour, and if it is it will be a CAT 1 system.
Old disused, but still connected, Tracker systems can cause the issues you are having, they are often a little harder to locate if they were well fitted in the first place.
E30M3SE said:
Not if its a Cat 1 type system which has a on board immobiliser it won't, as the car will not start.
If the alarm has any from of immobiliser then unplugging it will immobilise the car, it will however allow you to assess whether the alarm is responsible for the drain.
Blue LED's could be an Autowatch Alarm system, the siren for that alarm should be a bluey/green colour, and if it is it will be a CAT 1 system.
Old disused, but still connected, Tracker systems can cause the issues you are having, they are often a little harder to locate if they were well fitted in the first place.
Thanks. I take it there is no easy way to disconnect an alarm with an immobiliser? It has one of those little stubby keys that you push into a slot between the lights, I assume that is some kind of immobiliser then...If the alarm has any from of immobiliser then unplugging it will immobilise the car, it will however allow you to assess whether the alarm is responsible for the drain.
Blue LED's could be an Autowatch Alarm system, the siren for that alarm should be a bluey/green colour, and if it is it will be a CAT 1 system.
Old disused, but still connected, Tracker systems can cause the issues you are having, they are often a little harder to locate if they were well fitted in the first place.
Thanks for the picture too, always good to have some encouragement!
[quote=E30M3SE]The little key is just an emergency over-ride key in case your remote fails.
What colour is the override key?
If you want to remove the system you will need to find the immobiliser 'cuts' and remove them.[/quote
The over-ride key is black as is the remote locking thing. By cuts do you mean circuit breakers or something similar?
What colour is the override key?
If you want to remove the system you will need to find the immobiliser 'cuts' and remove them.[/quote
The over-ride key is black as is the remote locking thing. By cuts do you mean circuit breakers or something similar?
By 'cuts' I mean where the immobiliser of the alarm has been wired into the cars starter, fuel pump, coil, ignition (or whatever) has been immobilised.
Depending on when your 328 rolled of the production line it may have a transponder in the key for immobilisation (I cannot remember exactly when they were introduced), in which the aftermarket alarm may just be an alarm linked up to the central locking.
Find the alarms control unit, unplug it, check to see if drain is down to acceptable levels, and then see if the car still starts, if it does leave it unplugged if it does not then you will have to find which circuits have been immobilised.
ETA(10 amps is a quite drain, when checking this you have ensured that any boot and bonnet light have been disconnected)
Depending on when your 328 rolled of the production line it may have a transponder in the key for immobilisation (I cannot remember exactly when they were introduced), in which the aftermarket alarm may just be an alarm linked up to the central locking.
Find the alarms control unit, unplug it, check to see if drain is down to acceptable levels, and then see if the car still starts, if it does leave it unplugged if it does not then you will have to find which circuits have been immobilised.
ETA(10 amps is a quite drain, when checking this you have ensured that any boot and bonnet light have been disconnected)
Edited by E30M3SE on Friday 5th November 10:06
If the alarm is functioning correctly, I suspect it's highly unlikely to be drawing 10 amps.
If there is a single item drawing 10 amps, then the heat dissaption must be quite extreme - V x A = W;
In you case something must be running quite warm at 120w dissapation.
Do your have any fancy ICE installs such as big amp etc?
ETA: Also check the alternator as others have suggested. A leaky diode could be causing this.
When the engine bay is cold (but battery fully charged) are you able to locate any sources of heat / warmth?
EDIT: corrected numpty spelling.
If there is a single item drawing 10 amps, then the heat dissaption must be quite extreme - V x A = W;
In you case something must be running quite warm at 120w dissapation.
Do your have any fancy ICE installs such as big amp etc?
ETA: Also check the alternator as others have suggested. A leaky diode could be causing this.
When the engine bay is cold (but battery fully charged) are you able to locate any sources of heat / warmth?
EDIT: corrected numpty spelling.
Edited by TonyRPH on Friday 5th November 20:53
TonyRPH said:
If the alarm is functioning correctly, I suspect it's highly unlikely to be drawing 10 amps.
If there is a single item drawing 10 amps, then the heat dissaption must be quite extreme - V x A = W;
In you case something must be running quite warm at 120w dissapation.
Do your have any fancy ICE installs such as big amp etc?
ETA: Also check the alternator as others have suggested. A leaky diode could be causing this.
When the engine bay is cold (but battery fully charged) are you able to locate any sources of heat / warmth?
EDIT: corrected numpty spelling.
I hadn't considered the alternator because when driven regularly the car has no problems. I also pulled the fuse for the boot and bonnet lights during all testing and the drain was still 10amps.If there is a single item drawing 10 amps, then the heat dissaption must be quite extreme - V x A = W;
In you case something must be running quite warm at 120w dissapation.
Do your have any fancy ICE installs such as big amp etc?
ETA: Also check the alternator as others have suggested. A leaky diode could be causing this.
When the engine bay is cold (but battery fully charged) are you able to locate any sources of heat / warmth?
EDIT: corrected numpty spelling.
Edited by TonyRPH on Friday 5th November 20:53
There is an electrical hum from the dash after you turn the car off but I don't really know what it could be, it sounds like an actuator of some sort because you can hear a faint clunking.
I'll test my alternator tomorrow anyhow (Google claims it should read 14.4v across the battery terminals when the engine is running) and see if I can disconnect the alarm.
Thanks for all your help, I'll report back when I know more.
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