3000m/Taimar pedal box
Discussion
It very rare to see the 25-28 pictured pedal on an M but it is standard on the Vixen (missing from the pictorial is the outside brace plate) and integral to No25 is the thimble (this takes the outer cable throttle cable) which is N/I, a loose item and fits from the outside on the top face above the pedal box....also in the second of antjc pictures is the late pedal stop 1/4 UNF nut welded to the edge of the hung bar (the stop is a 1/4 UNF set bolt with a penny washer welded to it), this then limits the pedal against the bulkhead and when it is set up correctly limits pressure on the carb spindle so helping heavy foot owners from breaking accelerator cables. Part number 17B list as one part but is 5 in all ...the pedal, which has a stepped drilling to allow the bell type end fitting of the cable to drop in (so that there is no rubbing on the wire), a bracket with 2 bronze bushes and a central oil hole and 2 star washers ti limit R/L movement. 17a is Triumph herald I think but will have rotted away if OE and the replacement versions in S/S and alloy are mega expensive (you need a bespoke carpet to fit around this as it mounts to the floor).
Adrian@
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Thursday 11th November 19:29
17a is I think the floor mounted Triumph one (they do come as a pretty alloy unit now days as OE rot away) the others are TVR... 17b (with the additional nut and stop) as this then gets the 3 methods of adjusting....The simplest to make would be R inset as this is a cut away box section with a throttle cable thimble brazed on one end and a bolt the other (both bolt through the shell between the outer wing and pedal box tower with a matching spreader plate) and a pivot tube and your bespoke cranked pedal...the only techi bit would be that I would want to bush the pivot.
Adrian@
Someone with a Vixen post a picture please....
Adrian@
Someone with a Vixen post a picture please....
Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 12th November 11:44
Blimey, nothings ever straight forward!
Thing is the pedal box itself looks like its TR6 in origin, identical as far as i can see, I have just got hold of a TR6 gas pedal and it looks like I can make it fit by drilling two holes in the pedal box. the shaft then goes accross the other two pedals and exits the foot well though a hole to the left that's already there, putting the business end of the shaft right near the carbs, cant see why that wouldn't work if it does in a TR6?
Thing is the pedal box itself looks like its TR6 in origin, identical as far as i can see, I have just got hold of a TR6 gas pedal and it looks like I can make it fit by drilling two holes in the pedal box. the shaft then goes accross the other two pedals and exits the foot well though a hole to the left that's already there, putting the business end of the shaft right near the carbs, cant see why that wouldn't work if it does in a TR6?
Erich Stahler said:
Blimey, nothings ever straight forward!
Thing is the pedal box itself looks like its TR6 in origin, identical as far as i can see, I have just got hold of a TR6 gas pedal and it looks like I can make it fit by drilling two holes in the pedal box. the shaft then goes accross the other two pedals and exits the foot well though a hole to the left that's already there, putting the business end of the shaft right near the carbs, cant see why that wouldn't work if it does in a TR6?
Maybe get a pic from under our 6's footwell! Check it next week.Thing is the pedal box itself looks like its TR6 in origin, identical as far as i can see, I have just got hold of a TR6 gas pedal and it looks like I can make it fit by drilling two holes in the pedal box. the shaft then goes accross the other two pedals and exits the foot well though a hole to the left that's already there, putting the business end of the shaft right near the carbs, cant see why that wouldn't work if it does in a TR6?
Adrain that option 3 (can't see the 17* letters too small) but I think the option 3 is the right inset pic, is that not readily availible part (like I say - it looks familiar)!?
The pedal box is TR6 which has extra holes (according to the servo used) in for the angle of attack/shell thickness along with cut-outs down each side and the hole for the thimble. I have made the Vixen style one from S/S as a copy of the OE unit but, I see no reason that a TR6 unit will not do the job..... I would of NEVER thought of looking at a TR6.
Adrian@
OF course there are short, standard and long pedal box versions too!
Adrian@
OF course there are short, standard and long pedal box versions too!
Edited by Adrian@ on Monday 15th November 10:53
My thoughts are, that it was easier to seal the floor mounted version, than the earlier 'in the well of the wing' version..... but also, it is more likely that this was bought in as part of the package of 2.5 triumph kit, which was (based on Vixen and M series produced) the most used engine, given that this came with an odd carb combination.
Adrian@
Adrian@
Slow M said:
jellison said:
Floor mounted is just Wrong!
Not from an ergonomics sense. It follows the natural action of your foot much better. Imagine not having to lift your heel every time you push a pedal and how much less fatigue you'd experience over long periods of time. B.

No funny pedals for me thanks.
Adrian@ said:
17a is I think the floor mounted Triumph one (they do come as a pretty alloy unit now days as OE rot away) the others are TVR... 17b (with the additional nut and stop) as this then gets the 3 methods of adjusting....The simplest to make would be R inset as this is a cut away box section with a throttle cable thimble brazed on one end and a bolt the other (both bolt through the shell between the outer wing and pedal box tower with a matching spreader plate) and a pivot tube and your bespoke cranked pedal...the only techi bit would be that I would want to bush the pivot.
Adrian@
Someone with a Vixen post a picture please....
Here's a picture of the pedal box off my S3. Adrian@
Someone with a Vixen post a picture please....
Edited by Adrian@ on Friday 12th November 11:44

and

You will see there are mounting holes for a clutch m/c even though mine is cable operated. Talking of which, has anyone got one of those neat covers which hides the linkage where it emerges from the top side of the footwell ??
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