Dishwasher leaking water. What can I use...tape/glue?

[Morningside]

OK. After ripping my hands to bits I have replaced the whole motor, pump and wash assembly of my Bosch Slimline dishwasher.
It was a real bd to take apart, so if anyone needs help

Old parts:



Now, as I expect everyone knows(!) they work by recycling water held in chambers at the side of the unit.

Mine has a rip in it! So, how can I repair it? Is there a tape strong enough NOT to leak. It does not have full water pressure but will constantly be full of water.

[astroarcadia]

Bike puncture repair kit?

[Morningside]

Would it be waterproof? The material is a very thick plastic

[-Pete-]

Clean it, use glasspaper to roughen it, then araldite to glue a thick plastic patch over it.

[Emsman]

This-

http://www.gaffatape.com/proffesional-grade-matt-g...

and stuck on at the edges with araldite or silcone sealant.

Mine is patched up the same way- it's survived so far

[Meeja]

Emsman said:

This-

http://www.gaffatape.com/proffesional-grade-matt-g...

and stuck on at the edges with araldite or silcone sealant.

Mine is patched up the same way- it's survived so far

Gaffa tape.

You can fix the world with gaffa tape!

[spikeyhead]

Meeja said:

Emsman said:

This-

http://www.gaffatape.com/proffesional-grade-matt-g...

and stuck on at the edges with araldite or silcone sealant.

Mine is patched up the same way- it's survived so far

Gaffa tape.

You can fix the world with gaffa tape!

and a hammer, never forget the hammer

[Morningside]

Its coming close to using a hammer . Fixed the leak (thanks all), only to find another

It was nearly 'man all lifeboats' in the kitchen.


Will have to wait until the weather clears up so I can test it outside.

[Simpo Two]

Meeja said:

You can fix the world with gaffa tape!

Amost:

If it moves and it shouldn't, use gaffer tape.

If it doesn't move and it should, use WD40.


NB I have a Bosch slimline DW and had no idea it stored water in its cheeks like a big rectilinear German hamster...

Edited by Simpo Two on Thursday 11th November 21:12

[V10Mike]

See if you can find a material reference on it somewhere -it should be there for recycling. If it's PVC you can mend it with plastic pipe adhesive, which should be as good as new. If it's polypropylene (PP) or polyethylene (PE, LDPE or HDPE) nothing will stick to it very well, so your options are either gaffa tape or some careful work with a temperature controlled soldering iron to weld it back together.

[eastlmark]

seeing as you have already wasted loads of cash on unnessesary parts, why not pay the extra £40 odd for a new water inlet?

[Glassman]

Simpo Two said:

If it moves and it shouldn't, use gaffer tape.

aka rape tape

[Morningside]

eastlmark said:

seeing as you have already wasted loads of cash on unnessesary parts, why not pay the extra £40 odd for a new water inlet?

Because that was not the original fault.
1st fault - main motor had damaged bearing and screeched, hence I replaced ALL the parts at once (99p eBay bargain!).

2nd fault - split in the water holder or whatever its called.

Still leaking, but not dismantled again to source fault. I cannot see it being the water inlet valve as it cuts off the supply.

I suspect the fault is a (replaced) part that I have not homed in correctly. Only problem is that you only see what the hell is going on once the water starts flowing.

[eastlmark]

Morningside said:

eastlmark said:

seeing as you have already wasted loads of cash on unnessesary parts, why not pay the extra £40 odd for a new water inlet?

Because that was not the original fault.
1st fault - main motor had damaged bearing and screeched, hence I replaced ALL the parts at once (99p eBay bargain!).

2nd fault - split in the water holder or whatever its called.

Still leaking, but not dismantled again to source fault. I cannot see it being the water inlet valve as it cuts off the supply.

I suspect the fault is a (replaced) part that I have not homed in correctly. Only problem is that you only see what the hell is going on once the water starts flowing.

But your photo clearly shows a new sump moulding, heater, pump and pump housing (around £300 worth!) assume then they are not new items?
The water inlet is very dellicate and even just a bit of flexing can split it. The purpose of this is not to recycle water but to measure in the correct amount and use any residue heat from inside to pre heat it to an extent hence the very thin plastic side which has split. (although in practice this is not the case as the water is never in there long enough to pre heat) Bare in mind that any repair will be in direct contact with the stainless steel cavity and will get hot.
If you got all the other bits for 99p then I am sure you are still quids in if you buy a new water inlet. If you let me know the model number I can give you a part number and price.

[eastlmark]

eastlmark said:

Morningside said:

eastlmark said:

seeing as you have already wasted loads of cash on unnessesary parts, why not pay the extra £40 odd for a new water inlet?

Because that was not the original fault.
1st fault - main motor had damaged bearing and screeched, hence I replaced ALL the parts at once (99p eBay bargain!).

2nd fault - split in the water holder or whatever its called.

Still leaking, but not dismantled again to source fault. I cannot see it being the water inlet valve as it cuts off the supply.

I suspect the fault is a (replaced) part that I have not homed in correctly. Only problem is that you only see what the hell is going on once the water starts flowing.

But your photo clearly shows a new sump moulding, heater, pump and pump housing (around £300 worth!) assume then they are not new items?
The water inlet is very dellicate and even just a bit of flexing can split it. The purpose of this is not to recycle water but to measure in the correct amount and use any residue heat from inside to pre heat it to an extent hence the very thin plastic side which has split. (although in practice this is not the case as the water is never in there long enough to pre heat) Bare in mind that any repair will be in direct contact with the stainless steel cavity and will get hot.
If you got all the other bits for 99p then I am sure you are still quids in if you buy a new water inlet. If you let me know the model number I can give you a part number and price.

As for the new leak, you can run it with the sides removed and the front panel under the door and with a torch you may see where it is coming from. Check the large seal aound the sump moulding and the float chamber and water intake has been pushed into their repsective o rings properly.

Edited by eastlmark on Sunday 14th November 09:40

[Morningside]

eastlmark said:

eastlmark said:

Morningside said:

eastlmark said:

seeing as you have already wasted loads of cash on unnessesary parts, why not pay the extra £40 odd for a new water inlet?

Because that was not the original fault.
1st fault - main motor had damaged bearing and screeched, hence I replaced ALL the parts at once (99p eBay bargain!).

2nd fault - split in the water holder or whatever its called.

Still leaking, but not dismantled again to source fault. I cannot see it being the water inlet valve as it cuts off the supply.

I suspect the fault is a (replaced) part that I have not homed in correctly. Only problem is that you only see what the hell is going on once the water starts flowing.

But your photo clearly shows a new sump moulding, heater, pump and pump housing (around £300 worth!) assume then they are not new items?
The water inlet is very dellicate and even just a bit of flexing can split it. The purpose of this is not to recycle water but to measure in the correct amount and use any residue heat from inside to pre heat it to an extent hence the very thin plastic side which has split. (although in practice this is not the case as the water is never in there long enough to pre heat) Bare in mind that any repair will be in direct contact with the stainless steel cavity and will get hot.
If you got all the other bits for 99p then I am sure you are still quids in if you buy a new water inlet. If you let me know the model number I can give you a part number and price.

As for the new leak, you can run it with the sides removed and the front panel under the door and with a torch you may see where it is coming from. Check the large seal aound the sump moulding and the float chamber and water intake has been pushed into their repsective o rings properly.

Thanks so very helpful info. Yes, the parts really cost 99p. The chap who eBayed them said the front panel failed beyond economical repair and (luckily) I was the only bidder!

I will run without sides and I will remove the front panel and have a look. I think something has not homed properly but its so tight down there to see what is going on and I still have the scars

Will let you know how I progress - just need a nice day to run it outside.