pulleys + flywheel
Discussion
94 wrx sti fmic induction kit 550s omega pistons tubular headers straight through exhaust hks bov flappy paddle clutch modified oil pump acl bearings just been mapped and the estimate is 320 horse
im thinking about that white type R in the scooby mag 428/380 
im thinking about that white type R in the scooby mag 428/380 Edited by impreza on Sunday 14th November 14:36
impreza said:
94 wrx sti fmic induction kit 550s omega pistons tubular headers straight through exhaust hks bov flappy paddle clutch modified oil pump acl bearings just been mapped and the estimate is 320 horse im thinking about that white type R in the scooby mag 428/380
No reflection on you or your car but 320bhp from your current setup is a bit short of the mark and bit too safe IMHO, specially on a car with forged internals. You should should be much nearer to 350/350, specially this time of the year when it's cold, and i presume you're still runing a TD05 16G with everything else you've got. im thinking about that white type R in the scooby mag 428/380 Edited by impreza on Sunday 14th November 14:36
However. it's more about the way the car drives and feels so if you're happy with it, great. You are however nowherre near the safe upper limit of your turbo and injectors and i bet it's running pretty rich with fairly conservative timing too, relying more on boost to get you there. They call that safe mapping. Sometimes you can be just a bit too safe and too turbo dependent.
For you to get closer and perhaps beyond that white TypeR you need to be running at least 650-700cc injectors and an MD321T from Lateral Performance. Don't be tempted to run a 20G, as cheap as you can find them because it will be way too laggy. You're better off spending some more money and chucking a decent ball bearing turbo on that will be much more efficient and spool up more quickly than a sleeve bearing turbo. I wouldn't run a 20G again(i run one on a 2lts newage STi engine) unless i could convert it to roller/ball bearing although 20G on a 2.5Llts is pretty good and runs great with good spool.
450bhp from a classic or newage 2ltr scoob is pretty common these days and easily done with the right bits and some decent mapping. I would ask your mapper to have another look at the mapping. I would spend the money on decent top quality lightened flywheel, c.5-5.5Kg. Go too light and it starts to affect idle markedly.
Get the flywheel on first before your mapper has another stab at your ECU because fitting the lighter flywheel will make a difference to the mapping and the general way it runs and idles. Forget the pulleys, they might look nice but in the grand scheme of things will make little to no difference in your case.
If you haven't already looked at suspension and brakes forget the flywheel and get handling/stopping sorted out. That's money better spent and will make you much quickerl!!
Edited by ScoobieWRX on Sunday 14th November 15:53
impreza said:
yeh the handling and brakes were already sorted when i bought it any idea of the labour cost of installing a different flywheel ? i hear that a lightened flywheel give alittle more acceleration in the lower gears im thinking its probly not worth it tbh
A lightened flywheel means less rotating mass for the engine to turn. That's better acceleration and throttle response across the whole rev range not just lower down. It's doesn't provide more power but because the engine has less weight to spin it spins up much more quickly and provides better engine braking to slow you down more quickly through the gears as well. You notice the difference straight away because the engine revs much more freely.Cost depends on where you go but in all honesty it will cost the same as when changing a clutch so bank on £400-£500. You might get it cheaper than that depending on where you go. If you have the facility or know how save yourself a bunch of dosh and DIY.
Edited by ScoobieWRX on Sunday 14th November 18:57
il ring him tommorow
impreza said:
about an hour with er about 8 odd stops playing with his laptop the car hesitated before he started it has gone now and pulls really well its an sti but its an open deck block so im about the maximum for engine and gearbox
It usually takes half a day minimum to remap a car properly whether it's done on the rollers or on the road, and sometimes it can take up to a day depending on how many boost/exhaust leaks, faulty sensors, dirty air filter and MAF sensor, general performance brick walls in the way, and watching elephants crossing the road too. That goes for both Classic and Newage cars. I would want 1.5-2hrs just to do further tweaks to a car i've already mapped. Det-cans and wideband have to be fitted every single time, regardless. I don't care how god-like your mapper is, that's just a bit too quick by any standard.
It's a shame some mappers look at what they do purely as a way to print money. Unfortunately your average customer isn't very clued up and relies entirely on the mapper to do a top job, with inegrity. Thankfully some of us still love doing what we do.
P.S. V2 STi's (Late95-96) used a Closed Deck block. There were no STi's in 94, just WRX, and that's why you've got an Open Deck block.
To be fair, Most Subaru mappers have an extensive library of maps from which to start from, and if you start from a good map, its quite possible to map a car in under an hour on a dyno.
In fact with a decent ecutek or open source map from a car with the same mods, it is possible (but rare) to have a one flash wonder!
And on a 16g, bearing in mind how old they are getting, 320 is a good number, 330 is the most you would hope to attain to be honest. Only ever seen on do 350, and that was a bit of a freak car.
In fact with a decent ecutek or open source map from a car with the same mods, it is possible (but rare) to have a one flash wonder!
And on a 16g, bearing in mind how old they are getting, 320 is a good number, 330 is the most you would hope to attain to be honest. Only ever seen on do 350, and that was a bit of a freak car.
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