Team Dynamics - Centre cap mod?

[FreeLitres]

Does anyone else have Team Dynamics wheels on their Chim?

I am trying to replace a wheel centre cap, but it needs a modification to fit over the centre hub bolt, which sticks out proud of the cap level. I have dimpled and grooved discs if that makes a difference.

This will be hard to explain unless others have suffered the same issue.

I have removed the cap name badge and drilled the central hole larger so that the main cap fits on the wheel now. I now have a gap of about 5mm between the plastic and the name badge, which needs to be glued back on.

Do any Team Dynamics owners know what I am talking about? If so, do you have any tips for getting the name badge back on?

[Pupp]

The usual mod is to cut the protruding end of the stub axle so that it is level with the outer face of the lock-nut. Easy enough with a decent hacksaw blade

[FreeLitres]

Pupp said:

The usual mod is to cut the protruding end of the stub axle so that it is level with the outer face of the lock-nut. Easy enough with a decent hacksaw blade

Wow that was quick! Thanks Pupp,

Is there an option just to glue it back on slightly more proud than the usual position? The other wheel doesn’t look too bad and I would prefer not to slice bits off at this stage.

I am trying to figure out the best way to span the gap without just using loads of glue which will probably start seeping over the hub.

[Pupp]

Don't be squeamish, just lop it. Think of the unsprung weight saving

I've just looked at a spare cap and you could sort a dozen stub axles in the time it would take to fanny about cutting and gluing the cap only for it to fall to bits on the first dog cocking its leg...

[FreeLitres]

Pupp said:

Don't be squeamish, just lop it. Think of the unsprung weight saving

I've just looked at a spare cap and you could sort a dozen stub axles in the time it would take to fanny about cutting and gluing the cap only for it to fall to bits on the first dog cocking its leg...

If I hack off the end of the stub axle and dont get it exactly straight, is there not a danger that I could knack the thread up?

[Pupp]

From memory, its only the very first few turns on the lead taper that need to go... provided the nut is on when to do it, it will reform any distortion as and when it is next taken off. After cutting, I just lightly dressed the cut surface with a grinder to finish square and flush but watch the heat if you do this. Have had no problem rebuilding the hubs since

[Pink_Floyd]

I have pro race 1.2 on my chim and all fitted O.K. without any mods. front et is 25 and the rear et is 35.
What shape is your centre badge?

[MK INDY]

Ive just fitted team dynamics pro race 1.2s on my Chimaera, and had the same problem, as Pupp has said,just cut the end of the axle off, I used the angle grinder, you don't actually touch the threads, just the taper before the thread.

[Pupp]

Some of the Team Dynamics wheels I have looked at have had a distictly different centre profile to the SP12 version on the rears. I suspect those that follow the SP12 form will need the axles cutting, whereas others (with a thicker profile) will not.