Rear bearing race
Rear bearing race
Author
Discussion

e635815

Original Poster:

379 posts

219 months

Saturday 20th November 2010
quotequote all
Bit of stuck and requiring help here...
I have taken the rear hub out of the car and dismantled the bearing carrier. The two conical roller bearings are out as well but I am left with the bearing races still within the bearing carrier.
Since the new bearings come with new races, I assume that I have to take them out as well (and I would like to do so in order to be able to zinc coat the carrier).
Question is, how do you press them out of the carrier? Is there a special way to do it?
Next question is, how do you press them back in? Is there a stop you need to press them against?
Do you need to press one from the front and the other from the back?
Are there any assembly instructions available on the internet?
Thanks for your help.
Philippe

darkcat

2,354 posts

201 months

Sunday 21st November 2010
quotequote all
I did this a few weeks ago. ok you need s flat-ended punch and a hammer. put the hub on your bench. you will notice a 2mm gap between the inner edges of the outer shells that are inthe hub. You need to insert the end of the punch into the gap (at a slight angle obviously) onto the inner flat face of the shell. Tap one side then the other side of the shell (12 o'clock, 6 o'clock) continually, they will move around 0.4mm each side at a time. It takes a while but it's the only way.

re-fitting is the reverse.

I found heating the hub helped a bit.

I did have a full set of instructions but cant find them. will look....

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Sunday 21st November 2010
quotequote all
The best thing for fitting bearing races is a nice bit of flat mild steel.

phillpot

17,524 posts

214 months

Sunday 21st November 2010
quotequote all
BliarOut said:
The best thing for fitting bearing races is a nice bit of flat mild steel.
Ok if you're pressing them in but I'd go for something softer, brass or alluminium, if "tapping" them in !

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Sunday 21st November 2010
quotequote all
phillpot said:
BliarOut said:
The best thing for fitting bearing races is a nice bit of flat mild steel.
Ok if you're pressing them in but I'd go for something softer, brass or alluminium, if "tapping" them in !
nono, it splinters with repeated use and leaves fragments in the bearing. Sounds odd I know, but plain mild steel makes the best bearing drift.

phillpot

17,524 posts

214 months

Sunday 21st November 2010
quotequote all
BliarOut said:
phillpot said:
BliarOut said:
The best thing for fitting bearing races is a nice bit of flat mild steel.
Ok if you're pressing them in but I'd go for something softer, brass or alluminium, if "tapping" them in !
nono, it splinters with repeated use and leaves fragments in the bearing. Sounds odd I know, but plain mild steel makes the best bearing drift.
There we will have to agree to differ !rolleyes

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Sunday 21st November 2010
quotequote all
phillpot said:
BliarOut said:
phillpot said:
BliarOut said:
The best thing for fitting bearing races is a nice bit of flat mild steel.
Ok if you're pressing them in but I'd go for something softer, brass or alluminium, if "tapping" them in !
nono, it splinters with repeated use and leaves fragments in the bearing. Sounds odd I know, but plain mild steel makes the best bearing drift.
There we will have to agree to differ !rolleyes
By all means roll your eyes, but as a fully time served City and Guilds precision fitter I know I'm correct wink Ally, brass and copper are too soft and will splinter in a way that plain mild steel doesn't.

I have been bked and then bked my apprentices for this very sin biggrin

Like I said, you would think you're being more kind to the bearing using a softer metal but it doesn't work that way.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Sunday 21st November 2010
quotequote all
yikes Hardened metal on hardened metal, good job you've never been involved in Health & Saf.... Oh.

BliarOut

72,863 posts

270 months

Sunday 21st November 2010
quotequote all
You'll be telling me you can hit hammers together next "because they're the same size" yikesbiggrin

e635815

Original Poster:

379 posts

219 months

Monday 22nd November 2010
quotequote all
First important piece of info here: You can remove the two races by pûnching them out one at a time.

Second piece of critical information: When inserting the new bearings, since they are conical and have rollers instead of balls, is it ok to press against the outer cage to insert the whole bearing on the shaft first, then do the same with the second bearing, until it comes in contact with the first one, then press the bearing carrier on top of the assembly until hitting the stop? (note to self: don't forget the dust/grease seal before inserting the first bearing)

penno

241 posts

261 months

Monday 22nd November 2010
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Its far easier to get a block of wood and place them in a big vice and tighten I did it this way a lot easier.

e635815

Original Poster:

379 posts

219 months

Tuesday 23rd November 2010
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Ok, so everybody seems to agree on the dismantling part of the job.
Now what about putting the bearings back together?

Is there a preferred way to do it? Any written instructions available?
Thanks

haircutmike

22,511 posts

235 months

Tuesday 23rd November 2010
quotequote all
Dropped my hubs into my pals workshop.

Magically, the bearings were renewed and a bottle of wine, (for the missus), appeared on his bench, job done, no fuss!