crap water in the oil - is it the and of the world??
Discussion
Im 70% through my big maintenence job. I have taken off the air intake / injection manifold, and in doing so, im scared that some of the coolant has got into the cylinders through some of the intake holes. cant SEE any but cant be too careful.
Also a few drips (probably a teaspoon max) have found their way into the rocker area, and then down into the valey via the drain holes.
would i be safe to ignore this tiny amount in the oil, or should i drain the sump to be sure? and am i safe to, once its all back together, take the plugs out and turn it over a few times to be sure there is no water in the cylinders at all.??
Also a few drips (probably a teaspoon max) have found their way into the rocker area, and then down into the valey via the drain holes.
would i be safe to ignore this tiny amount in the oil, or should i drain the sump to be sure? and am i safe to, once its all back together, take the plugs out and turn it over a few times to be sure there is no water in the cylinders at all.??
Edited by darkcat on Monday 22 November 14:59
The only problem you could have with water going down the inlet is that if a lot is there then the pistons could hydro-lock when retarting causing major damage. Simple solution is to remove all the spark plugs and turn the engine over a good few times prior to restarting, this should blow out any water you have sitting on the pistons. After that any small amount of water left when you restart will burn off pretty quickly.
|Chris
|Chris
Its a old bullet proof V8 that's spent most of its life in 4x4's going off road getting covered in s
t,
Hardly a delicate race engine, if its only a tiny bit im sure it will be fine
Also what Chris said, isnt a bad idea ^
But no need for a oil change
t,Hardly a delicate race engine, if its only a tiny bit im sure it will be fine
Also what Chris said, isnt a bad idea ^
But no need for a oil change
Edited by Alexdaredevilz on Monday 22 November 16:54
chris52 said:
The only problem you could have with water going down the inlet is that if a lot is there then the pistons could hydro-lock when retarting causing major damage. Simple solution is to remove all the spark plugs and turn the engine over a good few times prior to restarting, this should blow out any water you have sitting on the pistons. After that any small amount of water left when you restart will burn off pretty quickly.
|Chris
I submerged my old range rover V8 in a lake once, this included filling the cylinders up with water, just took the plugs out and dried them off, look the air filter out as this had turned to mush and drove the 150 miles home with 2 tonnes on the back, it did not cause any problems at all.|Chris
I know it was a range rover but basically the same engine so I really don't think you have to worry about the amount of water you are talking about.
I'm a little confused by your opening post, removing the inlet manifold should only allow a little water to run into the valley (& possibly down the sump) if you drained the coolant before starting? I can't see how you would get it into the rocker area or ports?
It's essential to syphon out the rad through the rad vent IMHO, that way the block drains down through the water pump return and results in less water left up in the heads / inlet for a cleaner (less messy) dismantle.
It's essential to syphon out the rad through the rad vent IMHO, that way the block drains down through the water pump return and results in less water left up in the heads / inlet for a cleaner (less messy) dismantle.
Quinny said:
darkcat said:
yeah i suppose your right. though its only 1000 miles old, and damn expensive...
what are your thoughts on the water in cylinder possible problem?
Why are you using "damn" expensive oilwhat are your thoughts on the water in cylinder possible problem?

Spend - yes i drained it, however there was a little spillage from inside as i removed the induction manifold.
Quinny said:
clive f said:
I rekon mobile 1 in a rv8 is a total waste of money, everyone has their favourites and opinions, but why not use a 10-40 semi synthetic at half the price
I buy a 25 litre drum of Morris Oils 10w/40 semi synthetic for £50 quid....does 4 oil changes, and a bit left over for topping up etc

So with a filter, each oil change costs me about £18 quid.....
And that Morris stuff is plenty good enough IMO

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