hmmm. - broken bolt.

[darkcat]

This job it getting on my t**s...!!

I have a broken bolt, one that holds the intake manifold onto the block. its the one right at the back, abover cylinder 7, more annoyingly my bolt extractor has just broken off IN IT!

so the question is, should i leave it as is, and put a bit of sealant around the water way when i put the new valey gasket in? or struggle to drill it out??
My thinking is that there are enough bolts there as it is to get enough pressure to seal the valey gasket.

Also should i be using sealant on the valey gasket anyway??

[taylormj4]

Tried putting some heat on it, then spray your chosen loosening agent (WD40 or otherwise) on whilst it cools ?
Matt

[chris52]

I wouldn't advise just using a bit of sealant the bolt is there for a reason and simply putting some gasket sealant on won't hold pressure once the water temp/pressure increases. As suggested try some heat and wd40 if that doesn't work you may have to remove the head and send it off to be machined out. Sorry but the job needs doing right or not at all in my opinion.

Chris

Edit to correct cr@p spelling

Edited by chris52 on Monday 22 November 16:27

[darkcat]

hmm yes thought as much.... i'll try the wd40+ heat idea, however i still need a way to turn it, and as you say its going to be hear-on impossible to drill the extractor.

An idea that just came to me is to cut a slot in it with a dremel and small cutting wheel, thenget a hefty flat-blade screwdriver....

[Del 203]

Why the fk do people keep banging on about WD40 ????? Use PlusGas or similar

[Chimpafrolic]

Sorry to hear about your problem darkcat.

I assume you have sheared the head off the bolt?

If so and you have enough exposed bolt shaft you could try MIG welding a nut to what's left.

The heat from the weld will help, so get a six sided socket on it quick and it should come out.

Obviously if the EasyOut has snapped off inside the bolt shaft you may as well forget the drill from now on.

Those EasyOuts are as hard as hell and pretty much un-drillable.

Good luck.

[Alexdaredevilz]

Looks like a good excuse to take the heads off and get some porting :-)

[Ribol]

WD40 = Jack of all trades, master of none .................. ideal for squeaky pram wheels

If something is rusted or doesn't want to move then Plus Gas is your friend

[phillpot]

Quinny said:

Halfords also sell a Freeze spray, not tried it myself, but heard good things

Not from Halfords but this worked a treat getting my seat belt to outrigger bolts out, very siezed felt for sure like heads were going to shear off until given a dose of this. Real handy as there's no way can get heat on them



If stud is that siezed I doubt you'll get it out by cutting a slot in the top but that may work for getting the easi-out out of the stud then it can be drilled and tapped ?

[Barkychoc]

Can you get the bit of bolt extractor out?
If not you may have a problem as they tend to be very hard and you may struggle to drill it.

[Krautchimaera]

if the extractor has broken flush with the bolt, cut off a good quality surplus bolt head, drill through the head and chamfer the outside well. Place over the extractor and weld on with a mig welder using alot of power. it should take maybe 1-2 seconds to fill the hole. do it in one action to make sure it weld properly. then try to remove the extractor and drill out the remains.

or try to grind a slot into the drill with a Dremel to use a sturdy srewdriver to get it out. if all fails, you can use method one to get the bolt and drill out together, but with the extractor in it, the bolt gets expanded even more at the top and getting it out seems unlikely to me.

just my two pennies worth
good luck

[Krautchimaera]

if the extractor has broken flush with the bolt, cut off a good quality surplus bolt head, drill through the head and chamfer the outside well. Place over the extractor and weld on with a mig welder using alot of power. it should take maybe 1-2 seconds to fill the hole. do it in one action to make sure it weld properly. then try to remove the extractor and drill out the remains.

or try to grind a slot into the drill with a Dremel to use a sturdy srewdriver to get it out. if all fails, you can use method one to get the bolt and drill out together, but with the extractor in it, the bolt gets expanded even more at the top and getting it out seems unlikely to me.

just my two pennies worth
good luck

[BrianMillar]

Extractors are near impossible to drill without expensive drill bits. However, if you can get the extractor out, I find the best way is to drill right through the bolt (measure the depth of one of the other holes as a guide to max depth to drill) this way whatever you use as penetrating oil (I don’t like WD40) can get to the back side of the threads and work from there.

In extreme cases I have drilled the bolt with as large a drill as possible to remove the core of the bolt. Then the threads can be picked out using a scriber or something with a hard point. You have to ensure you drill the bolt centrally which is not always easy to do with a hand/electric drill

[spend]

Take the head off & have it done properly.

No one has mentioned it but the angle of the inlet manifold bolts makes it practically impossible without clamping & setting up.

[TVR Beaver]

Can't you smash the extractor out?.. if it's that hard I'm sure you can break it up into little bits using a hardened piece of metal or chissel or somthing.... I've done it before that way and now I hate using the extractor things coz they do tend to snap off.. rather drill it out in the first place and if I can't recover the thread, Helicoil it......
watch out the little bits don't go down any holes or into ones eyes!!

Edited by TVR Beaver on Tuesday 23 November 22:32

[darkcat]

"Its hammer time"