Polishing Machine Tips
Discussion
Did a search on here yesterday but couldn't find anything.
Been struggling to think of presents to get from the other half.
I like gadgets and wax my car twice a year so thought a polishing machine would be a nice addition to my gadgets.
Had a look in all the usual places like ebay, online stores etc and see they vary in price by extroadinary amounts.
Noticed also some were orbital, some random orbital, some spin, some fit in the palm of your hand, others were 2 handed and some even looked like an anglegrinder !
I quite like the idea of one that fits in your palm and bearing in mind Im not a pro doing it for a living surely don't need to tell her to spend a fortune?
Any tips? or perhaps recommendations?
(My car is a Tuscan if that makes any difference)
Thanks
Been struggling to think of presents to get from the other half.
I like gadgets and wax my car twice a year so thought a polishing machine would be a nice addition to my gadgets.
Had a look in all the usual places like ebay, online stores etc and see they vary in price by extroadinary amounts.
Noticed also some were orbital, some random orbital, some spin, some fit in the palm of your hand, others were 2 handed and some even looked like an anglegrinder !
I quite like the idea of one that fits in your palm and bearing in mind Im not a pro doing it for a living surely don't need to tell her to spend a fortune?
Any tips? or perhaps recommendations?
(My car is a Tuscan if that makes any difference)
Thanks
Depends on what your using it for. I'm assuming you are looking for something that will apply glazes or cleaners like lime prime and generally buff things up a little.
Definitely go for a random orbital machine as they do not build up heat like a rotary and you are much less likely to cause lasting damage. Stick to soft finishing pads and very fine polishes if any as remember you are removing depth every time you polish.
Once you've got your machine get down to the scrap yard and buy an old panel or bonnet and give it a go until you are comfortable. The actual polishing is easy, not leaving holograms and refining your finish is the hard part so practice first.
Failing that find a local detailer and get some tuition it will be well worth it in the end.
Matt
Definitely go for a random orbital machine as they do not build up heat like a rotary and you are much less likely to cause lasting damage. Stick to soft finishing pads and very fine polishes if any as remember you are removing depth every time you polish.
Once you've got your machine get down to the scrap yard and buy an old panel or bonnet and give it a go until you are comfortable. The actual polishing is easy, not leaving holograms and refining your finish is the hard part so practice first.
Failing that find a local detailer and get some tuition it will be well worth it in the end.
Matt
Also go over to http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/ for advice and reviews of polishers. Some time ago they were raving about someting called a Porter Cable polisher but it may hav emoved on now.
In a big nutshell:
Two types of machine.
DA/Dual Action/PC is a machine polisher which spins and oscillates (hence dual action) to produce a non-focused polishing action which is why they are very safe to use on paint as they basically can't produce enough heat and pressure to do any damage. However, they are very competent machines and can remove fine swirls marks and make glazing very easy and basically make keeping your car in very good condition a breeze.
Rotary polisher are based on a fixed rotation hence why you can build alot of heat up on the panel, but also why they can be used for great correction processes. I won't go into it much here as I would recommend a DA for you to begin with as you cannot go wrong with it.
So, which DA? A very good choice is the Kestrel DAS-6 or Das-6 Pro they have recently brought out. These offer a wide range of pads as they use a generic fitment and being popular you can always find parts for them.
Head to www.cleanyourcar.co.uk for the Kestrels as they also do packages which pads & polish to cover everything you need to get started and have a great looking car.
Good luck! Tom
Two types of machine.
DA/Dual Action/PC is a machine polisher which spins and oscillates (hence dual action) to produce a non-focused polishing action which is why they are very safe to use on paint as they basically can't produce enough heat and pressure to do any damage. However, they are very competent machines and can remove fine swirls marks and make glazing very easy and basically make keeping your car in very good condition a breeze.
Rotary polisher are based on a fixed rotation hence why you can build alot of heat up on the panel, but also why they can be used for great correction processes. I won't go into it much here as I would recommend a DA for you to begin with as you cannot go wrong with it.
So, which DA? A very good choice is the Kestrel DAS-6 or Das-6 Pro they have recently brought out. These offer a wide range of pads as they use a generic fitment and being popular you can always find parts for them.
Head to www.cleanyourcar.co.uk for the Kestrels as they also do packages which pads & polish to cover everything you need to get started and have a great looking car.
Good luck! Tom
AllThatGleams said:
p.s. any of the other really cheap machines you can find in Halfrauds etc aren't worth getting as they have such tiny motors in them you may aswell do it by hand!
Thanks TomAll your info above was exactly what I was looking for.
Have forwarded her the link so hopefully will be in my stocking this year
This may seem a silly question but... I always figured these machines were useful for buffing but I have bnoticed they seem to come with a cutting pad, a polishing pad and a finishing pad?
Im guessing the polishing pad is for products like SRP? And perhaps the finishing pad is for the wax? Whats the cutting pad for?
Dont get too hung up on which exact product goes with which exact pad, it sadly doesn't work that way.
For example you would start with a soft pad and fine polish and if that doesn't bring the desired effect you'd step up on the polish on the same soft pad, if that doeasn't work youd step up the pad to a firmer one and so on and so on until the combination meets your needs. Thats a very basic explanation but hopefully you get the idea.
For what you need I'd suggest a DAS6 with a couple of fine finishing pads such as the 5" Hexlogic pads, very good and a regular of mine.
For example you would start with a soft pad and fine polish and if that doesn't bring the desired effect you'd step up on the polish on the same soft pad, if that doeasn't work youd step up the pad to a firmer one and so on and so on until the combination meets your needs. Thats a very basic explanation but hopefully you get the idea.
For what you need I'd suggest a DAS6 with a couple of fine finishing pads such as the 5" Hexlogic pads, very good and a regular of mine.
matt will said:
Dont get too hung up on which exact product goes with which exact pad, it sadly doesn't work that way.
For example you would start with a soft pad and fine polish and if that doesn't bring the desired effect you'd step up on the polish on the same soft pad, if that doeasn't work youd step up the pad to a firmer one and so on and so on until the combination meets your needs. Thats a very basic explanation but hopefully you get the idea.
For what you need I'd suggest a DAS6 with a couple of fine finishing pads such as the 5" Hexlogic pads, very good and a regular of mine.
Thanks Matt, appreciate all your info, will add a few of the fine finishing pads to the stocking list as per your suggestion.For example you would start with a soft pad and fine polish and if that doesn't bring the desired effect you'd step up on the polish on the same soft pad, if that doeasn't work youd step up the pad to a firmer one and so on and so on until the combination meets your needs. Thats a very basic explanation but hopefully you get the idea.
For what you need I'd suggest a DAS6 with a couple of fine finishing pads such as the 5" Hexlogic pads, very good and a regular of mine.
What Dave said.
I've taught a few people the apparently mystic art of machine polishing over the last 3 or 4 years and we usually spend an hour tops on the DA before moving to rotary. Whilst it's true that a rotary needs a slightly more cautious approach, you can burn through with a DA without question - takes a bit longer but it can be done, believe me.
Saying that, nowt wrong with a DA but get a good rotary and a scrap panel and you'll see the difference not only in correcting serious defects but also finishing. DA's are great for plastics and some of the trickier paints but IMO that's about it - I haven't used my Porter Cable in nearly 5 years.
I've taught a few people the apparently mystic art of machine polishing over the last 3 or 4 years and we usually spend an hour tops on the DA before moving to rotary. Whilst it's true that a rotary needs a slightly more cautious approach, you can burn through with a DA without question - takes a bit longer but it can be done, believe me.
Saying that, nowt wrong with a DA but get a good rotary and a scrap panel and you'll see the difference not only in correcting serious defects but also finishing. DA's are great for plastics and some of the trickier paints but IMO that's about it - I haven't used my Porter Cable in nearly 5 years.
AndyMI16 said:
What Dave said.
I've taught a few people the apparently mystic art of machine polishing over the last 3 or 4 years and we usually spend an hour tops on the DA before moving to rotary. Whilst it's true that a rotary needs a slightly more cautious approach, you can burn through with a DA without question - takes a bit longer but it can be done, believe me.
Saying that, nowt wrong with a DA but get a good rotary and a scrap panel and you'll see the difference not only in correcting serious defects but also finishing. DA's are great for plastics and some of the trickier paints but IMO that's about it - I haven't used my Porter Cable in nearly 5 years.
Exactly, educate oneself and become "comfortable" with the machine. 15 mins on the DAS and you want more power lol. Only downside and only downside I find with the Makita is the weight of it when working vertical for long periods of time. DAS for apply glaze\sealant.I've taught a few people the apparently mystic art of machine polishing over the last 3 or 4 years and we usually spend an hour tops on the DA before moving to rotary. Whilst it's true that a rotary needs a slightly more cautious approach, you can burn through with a DA without question - takes a bit longer but it can be done, believe me.
Saying that, nowt wrong with a DA but get a good rotary and a scrap panel and you'll see the difference not only in correcting serious defects but also finishing. DA's are great for plastics and some of the trickier paints but IMO that's about it - I haven't used my Porter Cable in nearly 5 years.
Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff