Series 2a snow advice
Discussion
Last year I bought myself a series 2a to get me to work in bad weather, mainly snow, but have no experience of 4x4s let alone in snow! So, what's the correct approach? Also I have huge chunky tyres which I imagine would be good in deep/ new snow, but what about ice? Would I still need chains? Lastly, is there a way of improving the heater in the old beast? Thanks.
Edited by bernhund on Wednesday 24th November 20:51
Engine braking is your friend, along with its mate the diff lock. If it gets really deep go with low ratio, 2nd gear. Gets you through most things.
Tyres look fine. On ice, as with any car, is it's bad enough momentum will overcome traction/friction and the car will slide. Unlike other cars, whatever you slide in to will come off worse.
Buy a nice jumper and some gloves.
Tyres look fine. On ice, as with any car, is it's bad enough momentum will overcome traction/friction and the car will slide. Unlike other cars, whatever you slide in to will come off worse.
Buy a nice jumper and some gloves.
Unlike other cars, whatever you slide in to will come off worse.
Buy a nice jumper and some gloves.
[/quote]
I did laugh when I read this! Last year I came out of a house to get in the Landy and there was a note on the screen 'sorry, I just slid into the front of your car. Can't see any damage, but mines a mess' then a phone number. Couldn't bring myself to call him and apologise for being parked where he happened to slide!
And you're right about the gloves etc. I wasn't bothered by the cold last year because I expected it in the Landy. I suppose I'm thinking of what happens when stranded for the night.
Buy a nice jumper and some gloves.
[/quote]
I did laugh when I read this! Last year I came out of a house to get in the Landy and there was a note on the screen 'sorry, I just slid into the front of your car. Can't see any damage, but mines a mess' then a phone number. Couldn't bring myself to call him and apologise for being parked where he happened to slide!
And you're right about the gloves etc. I wasn't bothered by the cold last year because I expected it in the Landy. I suppose I'm thinking of what happens when stranded for the night.
hi bernhund, with the 2a the best thing when the snow starts getting deep is low box and 2nd and let the engine do all the work when slowing down or descending hills if there on the steep side. they have no diff lock as been mentioned. on ice or compacted snow its the same as any other vehicle just take it steady and allow plenty of stopping time. the heaters are not the best make sure the control levers are adjusted correctly set the lever to cold and make sure the valve stop is as far back as it will go. other than that a rad muff or sheet of cardboard over the grill.
or gloves, jumper and wooly hat.
enjoy
or gloves, jumper and wooly hat.
enjoy
My old Series 3 petrol used to pump quite a lot of heat out of the foot "vents", to my surprise. Fairly cosy, especially with Defender heated seats fitted. 
I'd also fitted an electric engine fan instead of the belt one, which maybe helped with warm up. The demist function, however, was non-existent. So I'd complement your hat and gloves with a screen wiping thingy.
Ruari
I'd also fitted an electric engine fan instead of the belt one, which maybe helped with warm up. The demist function, however, was non-existent. So I'd complement your hat and gloves with a screen wiping thingy.Ruari
Crossflow Kid said:
ruaricoles said:
So I'd complement your hat and gloves with a screen wiping thingy.
You only need one hand to steer. A spare glove, or "screen wiping thingy", can be found on the other hand.
Edited by bernhund on Friday 26th November 07:43
Crossflow Kid said:
Apologies. Ages since I've been in a Series. Thought the diff lock came in with low range.
(Coat....me....getting.....)
Sort of, it depend how you look at it. low range is 4wd while high range is selectable 2wd or 4wd. It doesn't actually have a centre diff though, it's either open or locked drive to the front.(Coat....me....getting.....)
You could remove the engine fan, only 4 bolts and it's not really needed in this weather. Just be careful you don't damage the radiator doing it.
Try and stay off the brakes when it gets slippery. Using the brakes will tend to lock up all the wheels which will lead to a slide which will make you lose steering as well as increase your stopping distance. Using engine braking means the wheels are still turning, just at a slower rate then you are currently travelling (if you see what I mean..) which is much less likely to produce a slide.
Try and stay off the brakes when it gets slippery. Using the brakes will tend to lock up all the wheels which will lead to a slide which will make you lose steering as well as increase your stopping distance. Using engine braking means the wheels are still turning, just at a slower rate then you are currently travelling (if you see what I mean..) which is much less likely to produce a slide.
bernhund said:
Last year I bought myself a series 2a to get me to work in bad weather, mainly snow, but have no experience of 4x4s let alone in snow! So, what's the correct approach? Also I have huge chunky tyres which I imagine would be good in deep/ new snow, but what about ice? Would I still need chains? Lastly, is there a way of improving the heater in the old beast? Thanks.
Best thing to do is make sure you select 4wd mode. In high range you need to push the yellow lever down. This will lock the drive and split the power equally between the front and rear axles. As it has no diff this can and will damage the vehicle if used at high speed and/or on grippy surfaces, i.e. when its only tarmac.Edited by bernhund on Wednesday 24th November 20:51
If you have freewheeling hubs (can't quite see in the pic) you need to make sure they are engaged too or else it won't actually drive the front wheels only the front prop.
For really slippery conditions and low speed control use low range (pull the red lever). Low range will always engage 4wd no matter what you've done with the yellow lever.
Tyre wise, yes MT's can work very well in fresh or deep snow. compacted snow and ice less so, although they'll still be ok IMO, but depends on tread and compound.
My advice would be to lower the tyres pressures too. Maybe as low as 15-18psi if you don't plan on any high speed tarmac driving as this will aid with traction.
Chains are probably good if the conditions need them, I don't know how often that would be in the UK though, although I'm nearer London so we don't get all that much snow.
A real improvement however would be sipped tyres. Not sure where you can get it done, but some type places might be able to offer it.
Info here about it: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siping_%28rubber%29
Not sure much can be done about the heater. A pickup cab or at least a partition between the cab and the back will keep the heat in a lot better and make it cosy. Roof lining and door trim and new rubber seals to stop the drafts will all help too.
bernhund said:
Thanks for the advice, still struggle to understand the variations in the gearing though. I think I'm a bit thick!
Basically a Land Rover has an extra gearbox which offer high range and low range.High range is just like a normal car for road going speeds. Low range means you get the same number of gears but they are all much lower, so speed in each gear is hugely reduced. 1st gear will do walking pace and flat out in 4th wouldn't be any more than running.
The advantage off road is it gives you lots of low speed control, you can move along at slower than walking pace without the engine stalling.
The other advantage is torque at the wheels, low gearing produces by means of torque multiplying more torque at the wheels, the trade off is wheel rpm.
Off road this is good because you can get the engine on song, say 4000rpm making good power, but without the need to actually move fast.
If it's still confusing think of a mountain bike, normal gears are like the cogs on the back wheel. High range/low range are like the cogs on the pedals
jsg612 said:
bernhund said:
bernhund said:
Thanks for the advice, still struggle to understand the variations in the gearing though. I think I'm a bit thick!
Hi Bernhund, Have a read of this, I found it useful.Cheers,
Jon
http://www.series2club.co.uk/pages/technical/gear_...
bernhund said:
jsg612 said:
bernhund said:
bernhund said:
jsg612 said:
bernhund said:
Thanks for the information chaps. Been to work in the old beast today and tried all the gears out. It all makes perfect sense now, but was still real slippery on those big tyres!
I'm now wondering if the latest 4x4s have improved over these old ones? Would a late Defender without mods handle any better?
I'm now wondering if the latest 4x4s have improved over these old ones? Would a late Defender without mods handle any better?
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