Discussion
I will have to temporarily add Motul 3000, mineral SAE 20w50, to my Valvoline 20w50 Raciing, which is no longer imported to either the Czech Republic or Germany.
The Motol 3000 was the only 20w50 I could find and is meant for 4T Harleys.
Then I will need to run about 180 miles to pick up 11 liters of Valvoline Racing from a vendor near the German boarder where the GTR will be serviced.
I still skeptical about moving to full synthetic. Would be nice to hear what oil people use in what engines. Mine is the factory American Speed 480 version.
The Motol 3000 was the only 20w50 I could find and is meant for 4T Harleys.
Then I will need to run about 180 miles to pick up 11 liters of Valvoline Racing from a vendor near the German boarder where the GTR will be serviced.
I still skeptical about moving to full synthetic. Would be nice to hear what oil people use in what engines. Mine is the factory American Speed 480 version.
The marine engine boys all swear by mobil 1 15w50 and the marine v8's work very hard for a living, like 40 minutes at a time full throttle.
I personally run Castrol RS 15w60 which is maybe a bit thick, but again holds up very well under extreme conditions and since my engines have high hours it helps fill the gaps a bit better.
As far as synthetic vs dinosaur, it's a no brainer. Synthetic is far superior, and the old myth that chevy v8's shouldn't use it due to it wearing the camshaft is unsubstantiated, based on my research.
It is recomended to use dinosaur oil for running in though otherwise it can take a long long time for the rings to bed in.
HTH
Matt
I personally run Castrol RS 15w60 which is maybe a bit thick, but again holds up very well under extreme conditions and since my engines have high hours it helps fill the gaps a bit better.
As far as synthetic vs dinosaur, it's a no brainer. Synthetic is far superior, and the old myth that chevy v8's shouldn't use it due to it wearing the camshaft is unsubstantiated, based on my research.
It is recomended to use dinosaur oil for running in though otherwise it can take a long long time for the rings to bed in.
HTH
Matt
When I built the 5.0 Ford engine for my Cobra which I raced for 3 years, I used Mobil 1 15-50 in it. When I tore it down to freshen the engine after what was probably at least 30 events, and revving always at 4-6.5 K, the crosshatching marks from the honing stone were still on the cylinders. Only changed the bearings because it was apart. They miked to new specs.
After a 2 year absence from the track, we're going to campaign it again this year, starting with a fresh oil change of Mobil 1, and changing the oil in the Tremax gearbox to RedLine Heavy duty, same as what's in the CanAm.
Jack
After a 2 year absence from the track, we're going to campaign it again this year, starting with a fresh oil change of Mobil 1, and changing the oil in the Tremax gearbox to RedLine Heavy duty, same as what's in the CanAm.
Jack
Do you really want to see honing marks on the cylinder walls after an engine is supposed to be run in? I thought the effectiveness of the piston ring to cylinder seal was best when they were smooth. The honing was basically there to force the rings to wear to the correct shape.
I was reading about this very subject this morning. http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm This guy has quite an interesting approach to engine burn in. It correlates quite well with the advice that American Speed provide of using a mineral oil whilst running the engine in. Not quite sure how to achive this method of running in a new engine whilst being gentle on the rest of the new car...even on a race track.
I was reading about this very subject this morning. http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm This guy has quite an interesting approach to engine burn in. It correlates quite well with the advice that American Speed provide of using a mineral oil whilst running the engine in. Not quite sure how to achive this method of running in a new engine whilst being gentle on the rest of the new car...even on a race track.
This is very similar to the way my engine was run-in on Peter Knight's Dyno.
It was fully warmed up before setting the Dyno into a programed sequence.
It brought the revs up, loaded the engine, released the load then brought it back down to tickover. It did this routine for nearly half an hour while we had lunch.
After that it was straight into 100% power pulls.
Steve
It was fully warmed up before setting the Dyno into a programed sequence.
It brought the revs up, loaded the engine, released the load then brought it back down to tickover. It did this routine for nearly half an hour while we had lunch.
After that it was straight into 100% power pulls.
Steve
Dave.
No, I don't really want to see honing marks on the cylinders of a street car, but it doesn't bother me on a racing engine, as I believe a little oil might be in the scratches for better lubrication.
Corvette will Void the warranty of the engine if you don't use Mobil 1, and the that's the first oil the engine gets. Both my wife's C5, and mine, burn very little oil.
When breaking in an aircraft engine, use must use a straight mineral oil, until the oil comsumption lowers, then you can change to a multi-weight, ash dispersant oil. If you don't follow this procedure, the rings will not set.
Using one quart of oil every 4 hours in an aircraft engine is acceptable, even desirable sometimes because of the cylinder wall lubrication. However, in all fairness, an aircraft engine is air-cooled, and tolerances are not as tight as a water-cooled engine.
With all respect to the article by Motor Man, I believe he's talking about aircooled bike engines.
When I built the engine for the Ultima, I ran straight 30 weight oil for the first 200 miles, then changed to Mobil 1.
I would change the oil of any new engine after 100-200 miles anyways to remove fine debris that is always present in a new engine.
The last oil change I did, I tried a fully synthetic oil sold under the NAPA (a large parts house in the States) name. Price is about 1/2 of Mobil 1, and since I'm not racing the CanAm, I'm sure it's fine. Let you know in a few months...
Jack
No, I don't really want to see honing marks on the cylinders of a street car, but it doesn't bother me on a racing engine, as I believe a little oil might be in the scratches for better lubrication.
Corvette will Void the warranty of the engine if you don't use Mobil 1, and the that's the first oil the engine gets. Both my wife's C5, and mine, burn very little oil.
When breaking in an aircraft engine, use must use a straight mineral oil, until the oil comsumption lowers, then you can change to a multi-weight, ash dispersant oil. If you don't follow this procedure, the rings will not set.
Using one quart of oil every 4 hours in an aircraft engine is acceptable, even desirable sometimes because of the cylinder wall lubrication. However, in all fairness, an aircraft engine is air-cooled, and tolerances are not as tight as a water-cooled engine.
With all respect to the article by Motor Man, I believe he's talking about aircooled bike engines.
When I built the engine for the Ultima, I ran straight 30 weight oil for the first 200 miles, then changed to Mobil 1.
I would change the oil of any new engine after 100-200 miles anyways to remove fine debris that is always present in a new engine.
The last oil change I did, I tried a fully synthetic oil sold under the NAPA (a large parts house in the States) name. Price is about 1/2 of Mobil 1, and since I'm not racing the CanAm, I'm sure it's fine. Let you know in a few months...
Jack
I guess it's horse for courses. It stands to reason that an all alloy modern engine like the LS6 will need a different break-in and lubrication strategy from an iron block SBC...though some of the increases in machining accuracy apply to modern high perf SBCs too.
Be interested to hear the outcome of your experiment with the NAPA synthetic over Mobil 1.
Be interested to hear the outcome of your experiment with the NAPA synthetic over Mobil 1.
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