Body off has started well, more hours needed

[z_chromozone]

Hi there,

I have now started stripping the various bits off of my V8S. The bonnet was easy, some of the wiring was a bit of a fiddle. I think I made a mistake disconnecting the pipes to the heater matrix from the bulk head, I have a feeling there will not be enough access behind the dash for me to push the connection from the other side when I come to put it back together. I am amazed at how many cable ties are used, there must be nearly 50 on the garage floor. I have jacked the whole lot up on axel stands and I am hopefully going to disconnect the rest of the wiring and the brake lines tonight. Then it will be seats out and the remaining bolts to undo.

That's it for the day job, I had better get going on the S.

Z

[Pies]

Yep TVR built the "S" using cable ties imagine a world without cable ties how wouuld they have built the "S"

[Podie]

Pies said:

Yep TVR built the "S" using cable ties imagine a world without cable ties how wouuld they have built the "S"

String...

[z_chromozone]

I am just about ready to go now, every thing has been undone (even the peskey handbrake lever). The only thing I am not sure about is exactly how the fuel pipe connects to the tank. Is the filler pipe really only held in place with a hose clamp. If I jack the body up with the clamp undone will it come apart leaving the tank, or are there any other bits holding it on? Once I get that sorted I can begin the test jacking process to discover if I have really managed to find every bolt and wire.


Z

PS

Spivvy, you mentioned that you had some pipe left over from your outrigger rebuild, is that still the case.

[spivvy]

the filler unit has clamps around it and lots of gunge which holds it together remarkable.
I would break the seals esepecially the one to the top of the tank as you will be suprised how well it sticks
also i took the chrome filler off as the seal had gone there but i don't think you need to ,
i still have some steel left how much will you need ?

also don't forget the 2 bolts under the centre console they can be a real pig to get to

>> Edited by spivvy on Sunday 18th April 17:08

[z_chromozonehome]

Do you have to take the whole of the centre unit out to get to them, I could not see any others just by looking.

I have finished for this weekend, perhaps I can get on with a bit more in the week.

Z

[spivvy]

z_chromozonehome said:

Do you have to take the whole of the centre unit out to get to them, I could not see any others just by looking. I have finished for this weekend, perhaps I can get on with a bit more in the week. Z

if th centre console you have is like mine you have to undo the 2 screws at the back of the tunnel and lift up the console if you turn it you just have enough room to get a spanner in you will probably have to move the radio also .
bolt locations on here
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/html/the_body_lift.html
and here
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=31524&f=11&h=0

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/Image8.JPG
bolts are under the air vents in this picture

hope that helps if you need any more infor let me know ,

[z_chromozone]

Dam, I thought that I had got the lot. Good thing I didn't start jacking.

Thanks again,

Z

[z_chromozonehome]

I have now got the body off, although I did miss two bolts (the ones under the seat belts), the crunching of glass fiber alerted me to them The bloody nut on the bonnet stay was a real pain, I couldn't get a spanner on it so we ended up prosing it past the tank lip. I also forgot to disconnect the injectors , so that had us all scrabbeling around for a bit. Six of us managed the lift bloody heavy it was too.

The rust seems really bad now I can get a good look at it (I am trying to borrow a digital camera for some pics), both corners have rusted away. The plan now is to weld in some new out riggers. I think that a full length is needed on both sides and the front cross members behind the wheels.

I was tempted to strip the thing and get sandblasting, but I want to be driving the car this side of christmas.

Spivvy, what was the name of the place where you got your tubing from (I can't find the thread). I know it was a small firm that do motorsport / dragster stuff, but I can't remember who. The car shoulod be being towed to have the welding done later this week, so I would like to get hold of some ASAP.

I will keep the updates coming for anyone that is interested and hopefully get a camera sorted before long.

Goodnight,

Z

[spivvy]

the number you want is webster race engineering
01933 315236 they are in rushden

you will need i think 1.5 inch OD 14 Guage (don't quote me on this check your diameters )
give him a ring to see if he has any in stock first

also you will need some tubing to sleeve inside this not only strenghens the join but also lines up the tubes, you will have to hunt for this to get a tight fit as i know webster hasn't got any good luck

[rpage]

Hi Z,

I found a hole in the outrigger last night so I am planning to follow your lead with the body off job.

One thing that worries me is in earlier posts people mentioned that the body will flex and craze the paint when you lift it. One guy even said that chances are that the windscreen will break.

Did you experience any crazing when you lifted the body off yours?

Ralph

[z_chromozone]

The body will not flex much when you lift it, I should think the stresses are no more than a hard drive. My windscreen didn't break either. The body is SOLID, just remember to undo all of the bolts I forgot two and a bit of crunching alerted me upon jacking. You can jack the body up a good six inches first like i did, using bits of wood to spread the load. I cut them to fit between the main mounting points. I did consider jacking it all the way up in stages, but it was getting a bit silly. The job is not difficult, just time consuming. I think 9 people would have been far better than the 6 I had.

Give it a go,

Z

[spivvy]

rpage said:

Hi Z, I found a hole in the outrigger last night so I am planning to follow your lead with the body off job. One thing that worries me is in earlier posts people mentioned that the body will flex and craze the paint when you lift it. One guy even said that chances are that the windscreen will break. Did you experience any crazing when you lifted the body off yours? Ralph

no problems with crazing or cracking lifting the body off so don't worry about it ,keep the doors shut and the roof on and you shouldn't have any problems

[kev s3]

when u put the body down remember and support it through its full length,if u dont the back end can sag a bit. put mine on a flat trolley with wheels. its easier to move then
cheers

[z_chromozone]

Here come the pictures,









[pic]http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00433122f00000006.jpg[pic]



[pic]http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00433122f00000009.jpg[/pic]

They work! As you can see the riggers were rusted through on both sides and behind the NS front wheel.

Can anyone guess where the top piccy is from?

Z

>> Edited by z_chromozone on Friday 7th May 13:51

[z_chromozone]

Well I have almost finished my resto project, so here are the pictures from about half way thorough. Putting the thing back together is taking longer than I would have liked, but hopefully I will be going for the MOT this Sat. The POR-15 appears to have worked very well on both the body work and the fueltank. My only real problem in the reassembly has been worrying about two spare three pin female connectors that appear to have remained unlabelled during the strip down. I have now decided that they were never connected to anything, but time will tell.

I have some new SO3’s on order from £75+VAT fitted that should see me through the MOT, I just hope that the electrics are all in order when I come to start up.

Here are a few pics of the build in progress.

http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00433122f00000010.jpg
http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00433122f00000012.jpg
http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00433122f00000016.jpg
http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00433122f00000019.jpg
http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00433122f00000023.jpg
http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00433122f00000028.jpg


Z

[M@H]

..cant get the link to work


edit: Can Now... looking very good

>> Edited by M@H on Friday 11th June 14:40

[rpage]

It looks great.

Did you strip off all the powder coating before painting or just paint over it where it looked OK?

Ralph

[z_chromozone]

The only part that was not stripped was the very centre section where the prop runs. The oil thrown from the prop had coated the chassis and preserved it perfectly, this section is also well shielded from salt / water. I stripped the rest of the coating using a 4" grinder with a wire brush to leave a keyed surface. A drill and smaller brush for the small areas. I then painted it with POR-15. I degreased the centre section and painted that too, painting took about 2 days to finish. I finally coated the whole lot with a 50/50 mix of waxoil and standard thinners to give the tubes a misting with wax. The open sections of tube in the rear suspension I sprayed with neat wax oil and some of the areas that I knew would be covered like the chassis supports and tops of the riggers I painted with body underseal.

I then changed the oil for Mobil 1 15-50, the gearbox oil and all of the filters before putting the whole thing back together.

Z

[maca]

by the state of the floor i'd say the top picture is a london nightclub with the lights turned on?