Lagging for a drain pipe?
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Mars

Original Poster:

9,950 posts

238 months

Monday 29th November 2010
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One of my rentals has a standard 40mm plastic drain pipe from the boiler on the first floor to the ground OUTSIDE of the house. It's freezing up in this weather, forcing my tenant to have to pour boiling water over it until it frees-up enough for the boiler to be restarted. Obviously this is a pain when they get up in the morning to find they've no heating/hot water.

B&Q doesn't do a foam cover for 40mm pipes. I'm hesitant to lag it with anything which cannot be removed eaily in case it proves insufficient and she has to resort to pouring hot water over it again.

Any suggestions please?

Gingerbread Man

9,173 posts

237 months

Monday 29th November 2010
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It sounds like the boiler condensate pipe has been beefed up to 40mm to reduce the chance of freezing. If this is right and it's still freezing, bugger me!

For 40mm pipe, you'll have to get an insulation wrap. I can't think of the name off the top of my head. I'll get thinking.

dirkgently

2,160 posts

255 months

Monday 29th November 2010
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Some plumbers merchants may be able to supply 11/2" armorflex(sp)but be prepared to pay an arm and a leg.

Gingerbread Man

9,173 posts

237 months

Monday 29th November 2010
quotequote all
dirkgently said:
Some plumbers merchants may be able to supply 11/2" armaflex but be prepared to pay an arm and a leg.
That's the stuff. As said, not cheap.

Mars

Original Poster:

9,950 posts

238 months

Monday 29th November 2010
quotequote all
Thanks gents. I think I'll need about 3 metres. I'll have a look round for it.

Brite spark

2,094 posts

225 months

Monday 29th November 2010
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might be worth looking at fitting heat trace cable and a thermostat as well

Mars

Original Poster:

9,950 posts

238 months

Monday 29th November 2010
quotequote all
Brite spark said:
might be worth looking at fitting heat trace cable and a thermostat as well
Is that stuff also known as heat tape? I've seen some that is self-regulating but is only sold on trade websites and comes with no instructions. I've spoken to a couple of plumbers about it but they have no idea. My brother bought a house with an outside loo, and the mains water feed to that has wires wrapped around it, leading to the electricity supply. Again, no independent thermostat - just the wires. It's what got me interested in it.

Problem is the fact that this drain pipe is plastic. I don't think it's advised to use heat tape on plastic pipes.

Mobile Chicane

21,825 posts

236 months

Tuesday 30th November 2010
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Bubble wrap?

My outside water main has been frozen these past two mornings, and that's all I had to hand.

We shall see if this works...

Leve Lad

33 posts

184 months

Wednesday 1st December 2010
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My advice would be to cut the pipe as short as possible ideally inside the house and put a bucket under it.

This will see them through the winter without it freezing again. But they will have to empty the bucket every now and then.

The amount of condensate that will get into the bucket will be minimal and when the frosty spell is over just remake the pipe.

Lag it properly in the summer or even install a bigger pipe.

For the record I manage a heating maintenance company who look after 10,000+ properties and this is what my engineers do to keep boilers operative throughout the cold spell.

Edited by Leve Lad on Wednesday 1st December 21:53

mk1fan

10,852 posts

249 months

Thursday 2nd December 2010
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Just let the tenant know the contents of the bucket maybe acidic.

Mars

Original Poster:

9,950 posts

238 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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Managed to find something on the RS website.

The outlet from the boiler is a 20mm plastic pipe which terminates just outside of the wall. This runs into a 40mm pipe which, I assume, was selected because it's not supposed to freeze. However the 40mm pipe is horizontal for the first foot, before turning downwards. If the insulation doesn't work, I'll probably re-route the pipe to fall immediately upon exiting, to get the water moving more quickly.

Pics:



^^^ Horizontal outlet



^^^ Not the prettiest of solutions but I'm sure my tenants would prefer that to not having heating. Long term I might try changing the immediate exit drop, and if that doesn't work, I'd consider boxing it in, or heat tape. I'm hoping this'll be enough though.

henrycrun

2,473 posts

264 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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Will the foam absorb water when it rains and reduce its insulation properties ?

Mars

Original Poster:

9,950 posts

238 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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It's a good question. It's a rubbery type of hose, so I hope not, but I concede that this is a bit of an experiment.

freecar

4,249 posts

211 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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Mars said:
It's a good question. It's a rubbery type of hose, so I hope not, but I concede that this is a bit of an experiment.
It looks like closed cell foam so no it shouldn't absorb anything, open cell foam would be like a sponge!

dirkgently

2,160 posts

255 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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It looks similar to armorflex, if it is it can be glued together with evo-stik for a more atheistic appearance.

Globs

13,847 posts

255 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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You could always clad the pipe using drainpipe, that would make it look better and help insulate it.

Festive Ferg

15,242 posts

281 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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Mars said:
That's a shockingly poor attempt at a condense drain. Much too much external.

freecar

4,249 posts

211 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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Festive Ferg said:
Mars said:
That's a shockingly poor attempt at a condense drain. Much too much external.
Out of interest, how should it be done? I assume in houses converted to flats, this sort of problem is common. I imagine it is not acceptable to have condensate running out of a little spout onto the floor below when the boiler doesn't serve the people who now own the garden.

Ricky_M

6,618 posts

243 months

Sunday 12th December 2010
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A 45o bend instead of a 90o would have been a start. If I have to run condensate pipework externally. It is always in 32mm and I'll use two 45o bends instead of one 90o.

Shortest and fastest route to the termination point is the best way. But I've seen 32mm with plenty of fall freeze up this winter.