Lagging for a drain pipe?
Discussion
One of my rentals has a standard 40mm plastic drain pipe from the boiler on the first floor to the ground OUTSIDE of the house. It's freezing up in this weather, forcing my tenant to have to pour boiling water over it until it frees-up enough for the boiler to be restarted. Obviously this is a pain when they get up in the morning to find they've no heating/hot water.
B&Q doesn't do a foam cover for 40mm pipes. I'm hesitant to lag it with anything which cannot be removed eaily in case it proves insufficient and she has to resort to pouring hot water over it again.
Any suggestions please?
B&Q doesn't do a foam cover for 40mm pipes. I'm hesitant to lag it with anything which cannot be removed eaily in case it proves insufficient and she has to resort to pouring hot water over it again.
Any suggestions please?
Brite spark said:
might be worth looking at fitting heat trace cable and a thermostat as well
Is that stuff also known as heat tape? I've seen some that is self-regulating but is only sold on trade websites and comes with no instructions. I've spoken to a couple of plumbers about it but they have no idea. My brother bought a house with an outside loo, and the mains water feed to that has wires wrapped around it, leading to the electricity supply. Again, no independent thermostat - just the wires. It's what got me interested in it.Problem is the fact that this drain pipe is plastic. I don't think it's advised to use heat tape on plastic pipes.
My advice would be to cut the pipe as short as possible ideally inside the house and put a bucket under it.
This will see them through the winter without it freezing again. But they will have to empty the bucket every now and then.
The amount of condensate that will get into the bucket will be minimal and when the frosty spell is over just remake the pipe.
Lag it properly in the summer or even install a bigger pipe.
For the record I manage a heating maintenance company who look after 10,000+ properties and this is what my engineers do to keep boilers operative throughout the cold spell.
This will see them through the winter without it freezing again. But they will have to empty the bucket every now and then.
The amount of condensate that will get into the bucket will be minimal and when the frosty spell is over just remake the pipe.
Lag it properly in the summer or even install a bigger pipe.
For the record I manage a heating maintenance company who look after 10,000+ properties and this is what my engineers do to keep boilers operative throughout the cold spell.
Edited by Leve Lad on Wednesday 1st December 21:53
Managed to find something on the RS website.
The outlet from the boiler is a 20mm plastic pipe which terminates just outside of the wall. This runs into a 40mm pipe which, I assume, was selected because it's not supposed to freeze. However the 40mm pipe is horizontal for the first foot, before turning downwards. If the insulation doesn't work, I'll probably re-route the pipe to fall immediately upon exiting, to get the water moving more quickly.
Pics:

^^^ Horizontal outlet

^^^ Not the prettiest of solutions but I'm sure my tenants would prefer that to not having heating. Long term I might try changing the immediate exit drop, and if that doesn't work, I'd consider boxing it in, or heat tape. I'm hoping this'll be enough though.
The outlet from the boiler is a 20mm plastic pipe which terminates just outside of the wall. This runs into a 40mm pipe which, I assume, was selected because it's not supposed to freeze. However the 40mm pipe is horizontal for the first foot, before turning downwards. If the insulation doesn't work, I'll probably re-route the pipe to fall immediately upon exiting, to get the water moving more quickly.
Pics:
^^^ Horizontal outlet
^^^ Not the prettiest of solutions but I'm sure my tenants would prefer that to not having heating. Long term I might try changing the immediate exit drop, and if that doesn't work, I'd consider boxing it in, or heat tape. I'm hoping this'll be enough though.
Festive Ferg said:
Out of interest, how should it be done? I assume in houses converted to flats, this sort of problem is common. I imagine it is not acceptable to have condensate running out of a little spout onto the floor below when the boiler doesn't serve the people who now own the garden.A 45o bend instead of a 90o would have been a start. If I have to run condensate pipework externally. It is always in 32mm and I'll use two 45o bends instead of one 90o.
Shortest and fastest route to the termination point is the best way. But I've seen 32mm with plenty of fall freeze up this winter.
Shortest and fastest route to the termination point is the best way. But I've seen 32mm with plenty of fall freeze up this winter.
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