In-cab battery isolator

[jonbarrett]

Having problems with battery drain when car is parked up for long periods. I've fitted a battery isolator under the bonnet but my garage is so tight it's difficult to get the bonnet up and switch the isolator. Can anyone suggest a reason not to resite the isolator next to the silver switch in the cab?

[sonnylad]

Well worth checking to see if the boot light is staying on and causing a slow drain, this hapened to mine but i only noticed it one evening by accident walking towards the car after a night out.

[jonbarrett]

Boot light doesn't work at all! My car has always had a battery drean problem. Thought I had solved the problem with a new big fuse (old one was cracked) and a new battery. Alas, the problem remains.

[AL 123]

If you isolate the car then get out & shut the door, the electronic door entry wont work and you wont be able to get back in

[jonbarrett]

I've learned to drop the window and leave the door open!

[AL 123]

Just got a permanent connection trickle charge for the battery myself, same as you battery seems to drain down in a 2-3 weeks if not driven. It's charging as i type, it has a load of settings & at the mo its charging a fully drained battery, it has 8 lights & its up to light 3

Was thinking of the kill switch myself, has it done the trick??

[jonbarrett]

There is no power in my garage so I can't use a charger. The isolator works, I just cant get to it because my garage is tool small, hence the idea of routing it to inside the cab. My worry is the length of the cable and the danger of a cable connected to the battery coming loose behind the dash.

I think it might be possible to get a remote controlled isolator.

[Tanguero]

I believe that you can get a smart isolator that detects when the battery drops below a certain level then triggers to isolate the battery.

A quick Google revealed http://www.noflatbatteries.com/

[jonbarrett]

Looks good. Cheaper than a new battery once a year!

[schimg]

Interesting ...my cerbera has a drain too looked at loads of stuff...wiper motor - aircon unit - all the boxes accross the boot - all the fuses...the alarm siren...bought a temp meter to see if the thing drawing power is hotter than stuff thats not...still no success...I need to check the starter next.

Anyway back on topic...this device looks interesting but it says suitable for cars with less than 1000 amp cranking...think the cerb needs a bit more?

I borroed a snap-on power pack for BSG earlier this year sure this was something like 1600 amps?...and was fit for purpose..

Edited by schimg on Tuesday 30th November 07:51

[schimg]

Plus like the idea of being able to isolate the battery from inside the car....if it is safe to do...think of how many cars are lost to fires...

[Tanguero]

The 072 battery has a CCA rating of 550A so the cranking drain can't be any more than that.

I wouldn't fancy running extra permanently live cable into the cabin and back, I would have thought it can only increase the fire risk.

[gruffalo]

I would opt for a remote one, operated by some thing akin to a throttle cable, you see them on lots of race/track cars, it keeps the wiring where it should be but can be operated from inside.

[scotty_d]

Do the Cerbs not drain the same as the Chims/griff through the immob/alarm system? I used this on my chim not much good for you and much like you will have just now but 80 quid for that automatic unit

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Is...



As for the in Cab Isolator as long as you run heavy enough Gauge wire it will be fine and just make sure the way you route them is clear of moving and warm engine parts.

[TDFPELTD]

We've done one previously with an electronic immobiliser and fitted an additional push button under the drivers side mirror to turn it on/off. Obviously there is still a small parasitic drain from the isolater itself but it did the trick with regards batteries going flat in a week etc.