Guarding against freezing temps
Discussion
Hi Guys.
My build is somewhat stalled due to freezing temps in the garage and getting on in age, my ability to shrug off the cold is not as it was.
As some will know my ls7 has been run up a few weeks ago, but with the faulty ECU over in the states now, hopefully being replaced shortly, I can no longer run the beast...and I am not sure how much anti-freeze I have in the system.
What I don't know, and hopefully someone can tell me, is what the coolant capacity is for the LS7 and radiator in the Ultima, and thus I can calculate how much antifreeze to buy to mix for best protection.
Since I had a leak a while ago (in the warmer weather) and replaced this temporarily with water, I am concerned that what I have in the system may not be enough to guard against some tof the more extreme temps we are now seeing.
Since I cannot run up the engine, I am left with the prospect of draining down via the pipes and refilling without circulation, so probably best to drain only. If I drain down by uncoupling the radiator pipes, what is left in the block?
Hope you guys can advise, I would hate to end up with a cracked block!
cheers
Keith
My build is somewhat stalled due to freezing temps in the garage and getting on in age, my ability to shrug off the cold is not as it was.
As some will know my ls7 has been run up a few weeks ago, but with the faulty ECU over in the states now, hopefully being replaced shortly, I can no longer run the beast...and I am not sure how much anti-freeze I have in the system.
What I don't know, and hopefully someone can tell me, is what the coolant capacity is for the LS7 and radiator in the Ultima, and thus I can calculate how much antifreeze to buy to mix for best protection.
Since I had a leak a while ago (in the warmer weather) and replaced this temporarily with water, I am concerned that what I have in the system may not be enough to guard against some tof the more extreme temps we are now seeing.
Since I cannot run up the engine, I am left with the prospect of draining down via the pipes and refilling without circulation, so probably best to drain only. If I drain down by uncoupling the radiator pipes, what is left in the block?
Hope you guys can advise, I would hate to end up with a cracked block!
cheers
Keith
• I would think it unlikely your garage will drop sufficiently in temp to cause a problem even if it is detached from a house.
• A 150 watt bulb under the car and a car cover over to stop drafts.
• You will not easily remove all the water so perhaps replace the antifreeze. Mix it first and just keep filling. I believe the LS7 has a bleed from the top of the engine so that should clear most of the air and the rad also has a top bleed.
Steve
• A 150 watt bulb under the car and a car cover over to stop drafts.
• You will not easily remove all the water so perhaps replace the antifreeze. Mix it first and just keep filling. I believe the LS7 has a bleed from the top of the engine so that should clear most of the air and the rad also has a top bleed.
Steve
I would go down the heating route. You have spent a large amount on the engine, rad, plumbing so saving a few £ on a bit of heat is not worth the risk IMO. You only need to get it to about 5 deg.
You may find your "old bones" will be encouraged to venture out for a few more jobs on the car too.
Paul
PS
I am in the process of insulating my workshop ready to strip my GTR down. I was spending £100 a week on oil last winter to make it bearable so needed to do something.
You may find your "old bones" will be encouraged to venture out for a few more jobs on the car too.
Paul
PS
I am in the process of insulating my workshop ready to strip my GTR down. I was spending £100 a week on oil last winter to make it bearable so needed to do something.
V8 Vum said:
Any 'SAFE' and relatively economic suggestions for something that runs unattended?
Hate to get home to a funeral pyre!
I used greenhouse heaters under my car over the winter - the electrical ones - this is what you want. I mounted it on a piece of shelfing board and it worked perfectly :-Hate to get home to a funeral pyre!
http://www.taylorsgardenbuildings.co.uk/store/cust...
Regards
Ive got a couple of 3 foot greenhouse tube heaters in mine with a thermostat set to 10 degrees just to keep a bit of warmth in there.....
ETA. Yep those ones^^^ but these are in stock........
http://www.cnmonline.co.uk/Thermotube-Tubular-Heat...
Graham
ETA. Yep those ones^^^ but these are in stock........
http://www.cnmonline.co.uk/Thermotube-Tubular-Heat...
Graham
Edited by Graham-P on Wednesday 1st December 16:21
Hmmph...
Absolutely no chance of getting a plug-in thermostat till end Jan - no-one has them in stock...seems that there is only one type which I find surprising (ET05) and I have tried about 15 suppliers on the net - all out of stock!
I think I will have to try my oil-filled 1500 watt radiator turned down low...and watch the dials spin! Erk!
cheers
Absolutely no chance of getting a plug-in thermostat till end Jan - no-one has them in stock...seems that there is only one type which I find surprising (ET05) and I have tried about 15 suppliers on the net - all out of stock!
I think I will have to try my oil-filled 1500 watt radiator turned down low...and watch the dials spin! Erk!
cheers
Found this but I guess you'll have to hurry...........
http://www.e-tradecounter.co.uk/p-256-plug-in-elec...
Graham
http://www.e-tradecounter.co.uk/p-256-plug-in-elec...
Graham
So you don't like my 150 watt bulb (£2) and would prefer to go for 180 Watt greenhouse heater at £21.
Steve
Steve
I luv your 150 watt bulb thingy Steve... ...as to whether it would have enough umph to keep the garage above 0 degrees in very cold weather, I am not sure. I don't have a physics degree, so numpties like me tend to go belt and braces or sledgehammer/nut under these circumstances, probably wrongly, and with the extra cost;
...but being able to sleep at night rather than evoking the wrath of her-in-doors for disturbing her by getting up; padding down to the garage in trainers half done-up, is a trade I am willing to make!
Thanks....
Keith
Graham-P said:
Found this but I guess you'll have to hurry...........
http://www.e-tradecounter.co.uk/p-256-plug-in-elec...
Graham
Graham...Some (the good guys)do, but some like these do not put the stock levels visible on the site, precisely so that the assumption is they have stock, and so you order, they take the money, and then you are told later that they are expecting stock soon! ...and then they trade on the fact that many will just leave the order running rather than asking for a refund...which in any case takes - guess what! - around 30/60 days to get your money back!http://www.e-tradecounter.co.uk/p-256-plug-in-elec...
Graham
A very dubious and sharp practise! Rife on the net if you are unlucky!
I nearly got caught....but rung these guys to be told initially yes, but on pressing they admitted no stock till end Jan maybe!
- same across the country (only 1 source it seems!) ...and haven't you noticed, they have jacked the price up (most have)...this item normally costs around £15 or less... and now the price magically is almost double!
Supply/demand/no scruples!
cheers
keith
V8 Vum said:
I luv your 150 watt bulb thingy Steve... ...as to whether it would have enough umph to keep the garage above 0 degrees in very cold weather,......
If you put one or two bulbs underneath then cover the car right down to the floor the heat will be trapped under the car.
Steve
Hi Keith,
I've got an extra brand new original GM LS7 block heater which installs directly in the engine in a special location on the LH side.
I use my as a cheap and light weight preheater and for you it would work very well as it's suppose to be used for stopping your block from freezeing.
The only hitch is that it 110VAC and you need to get a converter, which aren't too expensive in the UK.
E-mail me if you're interested.
Greg
I've got an extra brand new original GM LS7 block heater which installs directly in the engine in a special location on the LH side.
I use my as a cheap and light weight preheater and for you it would work very well as it's suppose to be used for stopping your block from freezeing.
The only hitch is that it 110VAC and you need to get a converter, which aren't too expensive in the UK.
E-mail me if you're interested.
Greg
Just draining the system will not protect it from freezing, there will be water left in low lying areas that will no doubt form ice. Even localized collections place metal structures at risk.
Drain what you can via the pipes near the radiator and any drain available on the engine block. Thereafter fill with antifreeze/water mix and heat the garage until you can run the motor.
It is likely that the antifreeze mix will intermingle with the water that remains and fully protect the radiator and motor without running the motor after it's addition.
Drain what you can via the pipes near the radiator and any drain available on the engine block. Thereafter fill with antifreeze/water mix and heat the garage until you can run the motor.
It is likely that the antifreeze mix will intermingle with the water that remains and fully protect the radiator and motor without running the motor after it's addition.
Steve_D said:
So you don't like my 150 watt bulb (£2) and would prefer to go for 180 Watt greenhouse heater at £21.
Steve
You can no longer purchase 150 watt bulbs due to the euro-goons. But the good news is that they are now available as 150 watt "heat balls".Steve
http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSTRE69E3FS201010...
eliot said:
Steve_D said:
So you don't like my 150 watt bulb (£2) and would prefer to go for 180 Watt greenhouse heater at £21.
Steve
You can no longer purchase 150 watt bulbs due to the euro-goons. But the good news is that they are now available as 150 watt "heat balls".Steve
http://www.reuters.com/article/idUSTRE69E3FS201010...
Just ordered some from the link I posted so we will see if they turn up.
Steve
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