big end shells - help?
Discussion
right - took off sump to fit john eales baffled one - easy job it all fits correctly great. Thought i would check the big end shells because i ran the engine for circa 30 secs on a sprint in the summer with the orange warning light on (by mistake) and it had a very very slight knock after. they are all fine except inevitably 7 and 8 which are worn evenly just into the copper in isolated locations. the crank is unmarked as is the cap end. - so i will renew all the shells. How do I tell what size they are? ie. if they are standard or if it has been reground before and they are oversize? the markings on them read E3533 what looks like the vandervell logo and ref 5051.
TIA Jes
TIA Jes
Edited by jesfirth on Sunday 5th December 14:00
Marty V8 said:
When I was buying new bearings for my Griff 500 motor I said to my source (Jim Robinson) that one of the bearings had only just worn through to the copper. He asked if it was no8 and when I confirmed it, he said that no8 is usually the first to wear as it gets the least oil. Si if you've just got wear on 7 and 8, then you might just be lucky.
The standard bearings on my Griff 500 motor had the following id no's:
ERR4873 or 4874 depending on whether its the block bearing or the cap bearing
The Thrust bearing ID no is ERR4875
Big end bearing (rod bearings) No is ERC2587
These are for a big journal 500 motor and I think the ERR number is a std Land Rover part number.
With regards to the baffled sump - Ive been looking at one of these for a while. Could you answer me a couple of q's please?
Is it any deeper than an existing sump
If so does it come with a modified pick-up.
Are you using ARP studs for the mains, or does it still have the std crank bolts in the caps?
Cheers
Marty
The standard bearings on my Griff 500 motor had the following id no's:
ERR4873 or 4874 depending on whether its the block bearing or the cap bearing
The Thrust bearing ID no is ERR4875
Big end bearing (rod bearings) No is ERC2587
These are for a big journal 500 motor and I think the ERR number is a std Land Rover part number.
With regards to the baffled sump - Ive been looking at one of these for a while. Could you answer me a couple of q's please?
Is it any deeper than an existing sump
If so does it come with a modified pick-up.
Are you using ARP studs for the mains, or does it still have the std crank bolts in the caps?
Cheers
Marty
quinny - thanks for the photos - all sorted and oredred the shells yesterady - they are standard size.
your block looks like a nice job.
marty the sump is a john eales modified one. it is the same dimensions as a normal sump but has all sorts of clever details including plates baffles trap doors etc. it also has to have the fornt plate "adusted" for the 5 litre version pm me and i will email photos and you will see what i mean. it also has a modified oil pick up
your block looks like a nice job.
marty the sump is a john eales modified one. it is the same dimensions as a normal sump but has all sorts of clever details including plates baffles trap doors etc. it also has to have the fornt plate "adusted" for the 5 litre version pm me and i will email photos and you will see what i mean. it also has a modified oil pick up
big end shells all changed today with no dramas.
marty - are you sure the shells for the main bearings will not just slide round like the big end shells? - with a little help from a steel cable tie? or are they really tight?
PS have ARP studs not bolts already in the engine so thats one less job to do.
marty - are you sure the shells for the main bearings will not just slide round like the big end shells? - with a little help from a steel cable tie? or are they really tight?
PS have ARP studs not bolts already in the engine so thats one less job to do.
Edited by jesfirth on Sunday 12th December 21:21
jesfirth said:
big end shells all changed today with no dramas.
marty - are you sure the shells for the main bearings will not just slide round like the big end shells? - with a little help from a steel cable tie? or are they really tight?
PS have ARP studs not bolts already in the engine so thats one less job to do.
Hi Jes,marty - are you sure the shells for the main bearings will not just slide round like the big end shells? - with a little help from a steel cable tie? or are they really tight?
PS have ARP studs not bolts already in the engine so thats one less job to do.
Edited by jesfirth on Sunday 12th December 21:21
Sorry for not replying sooner.
I dont think they will slip round, as the gearbox is solidly bolted to the back of the block and the gearbox input shaft mates to the crank spigot bush, so there's not much vertical movement to be had. I would be cautious about sliding the shells round as well just in case you damage them and cant see the damage. You might get to a point where a bearing shell nips up while you are pushing/tapping it round, and then you may well have to drop the box and support the crank somehow (together with the weight of the flywheel and clutch hanging off the end of it), or take the motor out to complete the job.
Hope it goes okay, whatever you decide to do.
Hello
you don't have to remove the box to do the mains as I've done it in situ before
you need to make up a small tool which is basically a M4 or M3 screw with the head bent over and filed down a bit to the thickness of the shell
you then fit the tool into the crank oil way and wind the main shell out by hand
it doesn't hurt the shell or the block just takes a bit of time
you don't have to remove the box to do the mains as I've done it in situ before
you need to make up a small tool which is basically a M4 or M3 screw with the head bent over and filed down a bit to the thickness of the shell
you then fit the tool into the crank oil way and wind the main shell out by hand
it doesn't hurt the shell or the block just takes a bit of time
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