A few questions
Discussion
I've noticed recently that my 02 1.8 is a bit tappety for a few mins when I first start it. Is this common or do I need to worry? Could an oil change help? It's done just over 70k and once warm the noise goes completely.
Hard one to describe this, but I'll try. The furthest rear metal bar of the hood mechanism sits right next to the one further forward just where the roof begins to slope down toward the rear window. I think the rear bar should be further down the hood closer to the rear window? Anyone know?
Finally. First to second gear can occasionally feel a bit notchy. Is this normal? I'm hoping it's not the synchromesh, but would a change of gearbox oil help?
Thanks in advance.
Hard one to describe this, but I'll try. The furthest rear metal bar of the hood mechanism sits right next to the one further forward just where the roof begins to slope down toward the rear window. I think the rear bar should be further down the hood closer to the rear window? Anyone know?
Finally. First to second gear can occasionally feel a bit notchy. Is this normal? I'm hoping it's not the synchromesh, but would a change of gearbox oil help?
Thanks in advance.
As far as I know, tappety noises when cold are a characteristic of the engine...although I've never really noticed it with mine.
The roof I can't really help you with....I'd just say that given the design of it, if it opens and closes properly it's probably ok - I think if it had a problem you wouldn't be able to get it properly shut.
And the 2nd gear thing is also a characteristic...I haven't been in one that didn't do it without rev matching and the most delicate touch. Every now and then on a really cold morning I'll get it wrong and it'll frighten the crap out of me, but it's just a crap design. I've never understood how the other gears are all so good yet 1st-2nd is so utterly lousy.
Edit to add: maybe all the ones I've been in, including mine, have a knackered 2nd synchromesh...but that's a lot of '5s, and none of them have any trouble going into or staying in 2nd so I'd wager not.
The roof I can't really help you with....I'd just say that given the design of it, if it opens and closes properly it's probably ok - I think if it had a problem you wouldn't be able to get it properly shut.
And the 2nd gear thing is also a characteristic...I haven't been in one that didn't do it without rev matching and the most delicate touch. Every now and then on a really cold morning I'll get it wrong and it'll frighten the crap out of me, but it's just a crap design. I've never understood how the other gears are all so good yet 1st-2nd is so utterly lousy.
Edit to add: maybe all the ones I've been in, including mine, have a knackered 2nd synchromesh...but that's a lot of '5s, and none of them have any trouble going into or staying in 2nd so I'd wager not.
Edited by Doniger on Monday 6th December 23:49
02 doesn't have hydraulic tappets so the noise won't be tappets. What you do have however is VVT and the actuator for that can make a noise that sounds just the same and can be fixed the same way - oil change. Use a good quality full synthetic - I always use Mobil1 0W-40.
The hood mechanism uses a number of fabric straps and springs to ensure that the bars all move correctly when the hood is raised/lowered. The Mk2+ hood can suffer from a stuff hood that stops the bars from moving but this usually results in it being difficult to put down. Check to make sure all the bars feel fairly solid in place when the hood is up. If one of them moves easily then I suspect a strap or spring might be broken/missing (has it had a new hood at some point in it's life?).
Is yours a 5-speed or 6-speed? The 5-speed needs a pool of oil in the "turret" where the gear-stick enters the gearbox and the lower shift-boot that covers this to keep dirt out and the oil in is vital to keeping it feeling nice. The upper shift boot keeps noise & heat out of the cabin. If it's a 6-speed then there is no turret oil but you still need the same shift boots for the same reasons. Both gearboxes benefit from replacing the oil with top quality synthetic (I like Redline).
The hood mechanism uses a number of fabric straps and springs to ensure that the bars all move correctly when the hood is raised/lowered. The Mk2+ hood can suffer from a stuff hood that stops the bars from moving but this usually results in it being difficult to put down. Check to make sure all the bars feel fairly solid in place when the hood is up. If one of them moves easily then I suspect a strap or spring might be broken/missing (has it had a new hood at some point in it's life?).
Is yours a 5-speed or 6-speed? The 5-speed needs a pool of oil in the "turret" where the gear-stick enters the gearbox and the lower shift-boot that covers this to keep dirt out and the oil in is vital to keeping it feeling nice. The upper shift boot keeps noise & heat out of the cabin. If it's a 6-speed then there is no turret oil but you still need the same shift boots for the same reasons. Both gearboxes benefit from replacing the oil with top quality synthetic (I like Redline).
Thanks for the replies everyone, especially Lazza. Very useful info. The cold weather seems to have exacerbated the noise on start up so i suspect a good service and oil change needs to be done asap.
First time i've had a rear wheel drive in snowy conditions. Absolutely great fun!
Now that i know that 2nd gear notch is a bit of an inbuilt feature i'm less worried about it and subsequently drive around it much more naturally. Weird!
Any suggestions on good but not overly expensive tyres for 195/50/15 wheels? I've got a mismatched set at the moment which can't be doing the handling any favours.
Thanks again!
First time i've had a rear wheel drive in snowy conditions. Absolutely great fun!
Now that i know that 2nd gear notch is a bit of an inbuilt feature i'm less worried about it and subsequently drive around it much more naturally. Weird!
Any suggestions on good but not overly expensive tyres for 195/50/15 wheels? I've got a mismatched set at the moment which can't be doing the handling any favours.
Thanks again!
MX-5 Lazza said:
piefacemate said:
Another vote for the Toyo's, they're a decent alrounder though unfortunately they've massively increased in price.
Still only £33 each from Camskill 
ks! Missed them, they'd have done nicely for a spare set of wets. They must have a hell of a stockpile, everywhere else seems to be £50+ nowadays.MX-5 Lazza said:
Tyres = Toyo T1R.
There are others but stick with the Toyos and you can't go wrong. Cheap too. They will be rubbish on snow & ice though - as will any performance tyre...
Disagree about the Toyos myself. The wear on the outside edges was unacceptable. Particulalrly the front left. The Geo was fine. There are others but stick with the Toyos and you can't go wrong. Cheap too. They will be rubbish on snow & ice though - as will any performance tyre...
phil_cardiff said:
MX-5 Lazza said:
Tyres = Toyo T1R.
There are others but stick with the Toyos and you can't go wrong. Cheap too. They will be rubbish on snow & ice though - as will any performance tyre...
Disagree about the Toyos myself. The wear on the outside edges was unacceptable. Particulalrly the front left. The Geo was fine. There are others but stick with the Toyos and you can't go wrong. Cheap too. They will be rubbish on snow & ice though - as will any performance tyre...
Andeh said:
Lovely, thanks for that. £140 for a set of decent tyres is great. I suppose that's a benefit of smaller wheels.
To a point yes, although I have 14" BBS wheels on my mk1, and a T1Rs with fitting and alignment through e-tyres (which was cheapest tyre+fitting deal around) was £288!It would appear it's more cost effective to make the tyres in 15" as there are likely to be fewer performance cars with 14" wheels and thus it bumps the price up
MonkeyArmDealer said:
Andeh said:
Lovely, thanks for that. £140 for a set of decent tyres is great. I suppose that's a benefit of smaller wheels.
To a point yes, although I have 14" BBS wheels on my mk1, and a T1Rs with fitting and alignment through e-tyres (which was cheapest tyre+fitting deal around) was £288!It would appear it's more cost effective to make the tyres in 15" as there are likely to be fewer performance cars with 14" wheels and thus it bumps the price up
5harp3y said:
MonkeyArmDealer said:
Andeh said:
Lovely, thanks for that. £140 for a set of decent tyres is great. I suppose that's a benefit of smaller wheels.
To a point yes, although I have 14" BBS wheels on my mk1, and a T1Rs with fitting and alignment through e-tyres (which was cheapest tyre+fitting deal around) was £288!It would appear it's more cost effective to make the tyres in 15" as there are likely to be fewer performance cars with 14" wheels and thus it bumps the price up
MonkeyArmDealer said:
...I have 14" BBS wheels on my mk1, and a T1Rs with fitting and alignment through e-tyres (which was cheapest tyre+fitting deal around) was £288!
I pay about that for 17s!!! (and what's this "and alignment" thing? Please tell me you don't let them touch "tracking"!).MX-5 Lazza said:
MonkeyArmDealer said:
...I have 14" BBS wheels on my mk1, and a T1Rs with fitting and alignment through e-tyres (which was cheapest tyre+fitting deal around) was £288!
I pay about that for 17s!!! (and what's this "and alignment" thing? Please tell me you don't let them touch "tracking"!).
...although this was on my previous 5 (with 14" 7 spoke alloys, not the BBS as it happens). Am looking at geo set up as one of the next jobs to do on the S Special. Found a place down the road from my work which is on WIM's list so I just need to get my ar5e in gear and sort it out. Probably a job for the Spring as I have a few moneypit events coming up.As for the price you pay for tyres, you jammy git! My Dad had an old 1990 Daimler 4.0 a few years back with metric wheels (same problem which affects older BMWs as well?) which meant tyres were unbelievebly expensive. On a car worth 4k at the time he spent £700 on 4 tyres and alloy refurb!
Edited by MonkeyArmDealer on Friday 14th January 11:26
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