3000s alternator
Discussion
Hi guys,
the alternator on my 79 3000s seems to be tired : low voltage at idle, when main beam is on...
Looked at the part, it appears this is an exchange items : no brand or ref mentioned on the body. Does any one knows the Lucas refs of the original/correct part to be used on my car?
Thanks for your help !
Chris
the alternator on my 79 3000s seems to be tired : low voltage at idle, when main beam is on...
Looked at the part, it appears this is an exchange items : no brand or ref mentioned on the body. Does any one knows the Lucas refs of the original/correct part to be used on my car?
Thanks for your help !
Chris
I would strongly advise fitting equivalent Bosch alternator
I have one on my 'S' and on 3 previous pre 80 TVR's.
They have bearings with rubber shields on, so much longer life.
Also the brush box/reg pack attaches externally, with 2 off 4mm screws.
It can be quickly replaced, & a spare can be carried in glove box at £15.
Lucas jobby is a soldering job
I pay about £55 for Bosch unit 55A from memory, in a 'proper old S' with no back window, you could get away with lower output
Cheers Ian B.
I have one on my 'S' and on 3 previous pre 80 TVR's.
They have bearings with rubber shields on, so much longer life.
Also the brush box/reg pack attaches externally, with 2 off 4mm screws.
It can be quickly replaced, & a spare can be carried in glove box at £15.
Lucas jobby is a soldering job
I pay about £55 for Bosch unit 55A from memory, in a 'proper old S' with no back window, you could get away with lower output
Cheers Ian B.
OE on the 3000S is the Lucas 17ACR and the easy upgrade would be the 18ACR (given that the Bosch is going to be a outright purchase with no exchange)it should cost pennies more to do...as Ian says with no rear screen to pull the power out...I would be checking the earths and wiring with a infrared temp unit for resistance issues first. Adrian@
Adrian@ said:
OE on the 3000S is the Lucas 17ACR and the easy upgrade would be the 18ACR (given that the Bosch is going to be a outright purchase with no exchange)it should cost pennies more to do...as Ian says with no rear screen to pull the power out...I would be checking the earths and wiring with a infrared temp unit for resistance issues first. Adrian@
I thought ian was referring to the additional power required due to the frictional drag caused by the disrupted air flow, he almost had me removing the rear screen of my car there
N
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