Rear suspension modification
Discussion
after a busy summer and lots of track days i decided to rebuild all the suspension and hubs ect , along with the rebuild i wanted to upgrade componants and improve the ability to setup the suspension to a track setup , on thing the car needs is a bit more camber this has been achieved by maching the alloy uprights and shimming to get the correct camber settings .
After talking to Dave Beasley it became apparent that while the mod works fine on the front on the rear it can give some issues with on compression the drive shaft presses hard on the wheel bearing , when i stripped the rear suspension ect i found the brand new wheel bearing on the passenger side was knackered and there was evidence of blueing on the end of the drive shaft !! this proved to me that i had to look at doing the camber adjustment a differeny way , with the help of my good friend Andy we came up with a mod that widens the stance rather than pulling the top in .
Have put it all back together tonite and i,m very pleased with the results .
buy fitting a rose joint into the bottom of the wishbone instead of the ball joint it gives me the ability to widen the stance .
The alloy upright has been machined to take a steel sleave along with a spacer to set up to the wishbone
im pretty chuffed with the end result
After talking to Dave Beasley it became apparent that while the mod works fine on the front on the rear it can give some issues with on compression the drive shaft presses hard on the wheel bearing , when i stripped the rear suspension ect i found the brand new wheel bearing on the passenger side was knackered and there was evidence of blueing on the end of the drive shaft !! this proved to me that i had to look at doing the camber adjustment a differeny way , with the help of my good friend Andy we came up with a mod that widens the stance rather than pulling the top in .
Have put it all back together tonite and i,m very pleased with the results .
buy fitting a rose joint into the bottom of the wishbone instead of the ball joint it gives me the ability to widen the stance .
The alloy upright has been machined to take a steel sleave along with a spacer to set up to the wishbone
im pretty chuffed with the end result
Edited by TuxMan on Wednesday 8th December 20:19
Edited by TuxMan on Wednesday 29th December 08:19
Edited by TuxMan on Thursday 27th December 23:02
So you made a new wish bone or machined the original one? The upright has that just had a bigger thread in it and you have use a large bolt and a spacer?
Sorry, not knowing much about it all I'm just trying to work out how hard it is to do. Can the front be done.
Last question, How quick could it be done if I left the car with you. lol
Bondy
Sorry, not knowing much about it all I'm just trying to work out how hard it is to do. Can the front be done.
Last question, How quick could it be done if I left the car with you. lol
Bondy
mgbond said:
So you made a new wish bone or machined the original one? The upright has that just had a bigger thread in it and you have use a large bolt and a spacer?
Sorry, not knowing much about it all I'm just trying to work out how hard it is to do. Can the front be done.
Last question, How quick could it be done if I left the car with you. lol
Bondy
we use the original wishbone ,the steel spacer sleaves right through the upright for strength and we have used a long shank bolt . cannot do it on the front only way to do front is to machine hub . Sorry, not knowing much about it all I'm just trying to work out how hard it is to do. Can the front be done.
Last question, How quick could it be done if I left the car with you. lol
Bondy
Good job Tux, sim to what Dave was talking about at Jetstream for the rears.
What settings are you going to use? Neg camber by how much front and rear? I heard on the vine that somewhere around 2 to 3 degree at the front will dial out the understear, make it a lot more pointy, but of course there is a comprimise.
When can we order ?
What settings are you going to use? Neg camber by how much front and rear? I heard on the vine that somewhere around 2 to 3 degree at the front will dial out the understear, make it a lot more pointy, but of course there is a comprimise.
When can we order ?
sundance002 said:
Good job Tux, sim to what Dave was talking about at Jetstream for the rears.
What settings are you going to use? Neg camber by how much front and rear? I heard on the vine that somewhere around 2 to 3 degree at the front will dial out the understear, make it a lot more pointy, but of course there is a comprimise.
When can we order ?
probably start with 2 degrees all round and see what tyre temps look like , Jigs are all made my only concern is that nothing is tested !!! we have used the biggest ball joint and bolt possible but would like to do a few miles before we do any more !!!What settings are you going to use? Neg camber by how much front and rear? I heard on the vine that somewhere around 2 to 3 degree at the front will dial out the understear, make it a lot more pointy, but of course there is a comprimise.
When can we order ?
TuxMan said:
sundance002 said:
Good job Tux, sim to what Dave was talking about at Jetstream for the rears.
What settings are you going to use? Neg camber by how much front and rear? I heard on the vine that somewhere around 2 to 3 degree at the front will dial out the understear, make it a lot more pointy, but of course there is a comprimise.
When can we order ?
probably start with 2 degrees all round and see what tyre temps look like , Jigs are all made my only concern is that nothing is tested !!! we have used the biggest ball joint and bolt possible but would like to do a few miles before we do any more !!!What settings are you going to use? Neg camber by how much front and rear? I heard on the vine that somewhere around 2 to 3 degree at the front will dial out the understear, make it a lot more pointy, but of course there is a comprimise.
When can we order ?
Bondy
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