Rear wheel cylinders and pads
Discussion
Hello darlings...I will need rear wheel cylinders and pads soon can anyone advise please..Also was looking into upgrading my calipers later but brembo are astronomically expensive..I found this chappie on here and he seems a decent fello..They seem reasonably priced in comparrison,Has anyone fitted them.. many thankyous..ziga..
http://www.spannerfodder.com/
http://www.spannerfodder.com/
80s XJ6/12...obtainable from your local factor.
The rear is supposedly over-braked if anything on Wedges, so I wouldn't worry.
It is important to keep the handbrake mech clean and working properly, so worth giving that some attention.
Useful link here:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
The rear is supposedly over-braked if anything on Wedges, so I wouldn't worry.
It is important to keep the handbrake mech clean and working properly, so worth giving that some attention.
Useful link here:
http://www.pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0...
Edited by grahamw48 on Sunday 12th December 11:10
Hi Zig
If i were you i would look at having the rear brakes over hauled if they are giving you any problems and stick with the standard setup..
Steve Heath still runs the standard braked on the back of the shed with 500 plus ponnes going through it, I know you dont have that power, if any thing look into upgrading the front of you car as the wedge is a little over braked at the rear, the calipers should have had smaller pistons and smaller disks.
The back end it Jag XJS, E Type, pads are easy to get and so are disks, you can even get vented disks ( wish I got vented when I put new on last year) also I like Mintex 1144 pads, give good grip and dont rip into disks like some other makes.
As stated before make sure you had brake system is nice and clean and functioning and these cars seem to fail MOTS on the hand braking not pulling up enought weight.
The SEAC has a stupid hand brake arrangement, its to the left of the steering collum and every year it just makes the minimal weight.
Cheers
Cambelt
If i were you i would look at having the rear brakes over hauled if they are giving you any problems and stick with the standard setup..
Steve Heath still runs the standard braked on the back of the shed with 500 plus ponnes going through it, I know you dont have that power, if any thing look into upgrading the front of you car as the wedge is a little over braked at the rear, the calipers should have had smaller pistons and smaller disks.
The back end it Jag XJS, E Type, pads are easy to get and so are disks, you can even get vented disks ( wish I got vented when I put new on last year) also I like Mintex 1144 pads, give good grip and dont rip into disks like some other makes.
As stated before make sure you had brake system is nice and clean and functioning and these cars seem to fail MOTS on the hand braking not pulling up enought weight.
The SEAC has a stupid hand brake arrangement, its to the left of the steering collum and every year it just makes the minimal weight.
Cheers
Cambelt
Mark you really don't want to get into doing the calipers if you don't have to. If they are not seized just do the pads and bleed.
Also with regard to the handbrake, if it is not working too well, try loosening the the locknuts on the cable and wind them both back enough to enable you to give those two arms a really good waggle back and forth.
This should, if you are lucky get the handbrake self adjusters working.
This is definately a two axle stand job. Don't do it with one trolley jack unless you have 999 on speed dial.
Also with regard to the handbrake, if it is not working too well, try loosening the the locknuts on the cable and wind them both back enough to enable you to give those two arms a really good waggle back and forth.
This should, if you are lucky get the handbrake self adjusters working.
This is definately a two axle stand job. Don't do it with one trolley jack unless you have 999 on speed dial.
As mentioned before, no need to upgrade.
And don't no of any issues to get any of the parts (calipers, discs, pads), all available next working day for pickup (and this is in Belgium).
Went for reconditioned calipers at a fair price (less than 100 Euro each, especially as a kit to overhaul was over 60 Euro...) with old ones handed in.
Not a technical difficult job, but it takes a lot of time. It was in my case not possible to take the right-hand caliper off with the rear disc in place. The lot had to be replaced so no issue. Thought of a 'large' inspection hole (there is a thread on here with a picture) to improve access, but in the end it was not required. Two days of work, leaving the diff in place, drive shafts and disks removed.
Rob
And don't no of any issues to get any of the parts (calipers, discs, pads), all available next working day for pickup (and this is in Belgium).
Went for reconditioned calipers at a fair price (less than 100 Euro each, especially as a kit to overhaul was over 60 Euro...) with old ones handed in.
Not a technical difficult job, but it takes a lot of time. It was in my case not possible to take the right-hand caliper off with the rear disc in place. The lot had to be replaced so no issue. Thought of a 'large' inspection hole (there is a thread on here with a picture) to improve access, but in the end it was not required. Two days of work, leaving the diff in place, drive shafts and disks removed.
Rob
Campbell said:
The back end it Jag XJS, E Type, pads are easy to get and so are disks, you can even get vented disks ( wish I got vented when I put new on last year) also I like Mintex 1144 pads, give good grip and dont rip into disks like some other makes.
Could you let me know who does the vented rear disc's as could do with some on the racer, as I cooked them last time out, and that's with cooling ducts, going to adjust the bias I bit more forward, but extra cooling would be handy.if you need a rebuild your calipers these people do all the bits you need
http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/cat/Jaguar%20...
As said your need to remove the disc's to them off, so if your discs look a bit suspect them change them at the same time, also you may want to get some spare nipples as they can brake
Cheers chaps..Some good advice which will all be taken..Did have handbrake adjusted but its still not holding car fully so will mention when i have pads done as regards jeff..Some squealing when braking n/s rear..Pads and discs on the front seem ok n/s rear pads look more worn than o/s rear..Sites very usefull and looks to be the cheapest and best option..Many thanks to all..Mark
Edited by mrzigazaga on Sunday 12th December 16:10
mrzigazaga said:
Cheers chaps..Some good advice which will be taken..Did have handbrake adjusted but its still not holding car fully..Some squealing when braking n/s rear..Pads and discs on the front seem ok n/s rear pads look more worn than o/s rear..Many thanks..Mark
Did they adjust it at the calliper or just do cable?That's correct - the cable adjustment is set to give the best leverage on the calipers themselves. Adjusting them is very easy - put the cable adjuster back to where it was first. Then use the big screw head on each caliper to adjust them, there will be a split pin in there (or should be), you have to take it our first, clockwise to tighen. Do each side so it drags, then operate the handbrake a few times, then back them off slightly one at a time on each side so it doesn't drag, lining up the head slots with the holes for the split pin, check the handbrake again, then replace the split pins.
This usually lasts about 6 months or 3000 miles before you have to do it again. While you have the car jacked up grease the rear UJ's too.
This usually lasts about 6 months or 3000 miles before you have to do it again. While you have the car jacked up grease the rear UJ's too.
adam quantrill said:
That's correct - the cable adjustment is set to give the best leverage on the calipers themselves. Adjusting them is very easy - put the cable adjuster back to where it was first. Then use the big screw head on each caliper to adjust them, there will be a split pin in there (or should be), you have to take it our first, clockwise to tighen. Do each side so it drags, then operate the handbrake a few times, then back them off slightly one at a time on each side so it doesn't drag, lining up the head slots with the holes for the split pin, check the handbrake again, then replace the split pins.
This usually lasts about 6 hours, 30 miles or until one of the pads becomes de-laminated and falls out before you have to do it again. While you have the car jacked up grease the rear UJ's too.
EFA This usually lasts about 6 hours, 30 miles or until one of the pads becomes de-laminated and falls out before you have to do it again. While you have the car jacked up grease the rear UJ's too.
Yeah I get you!
For MOT purposes it lasts for about 6 miles, you are right! When I adjust for the MOT (station 1 mile away) I adjust for some very light dragging. The 6 month period refers to when it's fully useless!
Incidentally if the pad falls off the backplate, you can superglue it back on (I kid ye not) and the superglue doesn't denature under the heat. I wouldn't do this with "main" brake pads though!!!
For MOT purposes it lasts for about 6 miles, you are right! When I adjust for the MOT (station 1 mile away) I adjust for some very light dragging. The 6 month period refers to when it's fully useless!
Incidentally if the pad falls off the backplate, you can superglue it back on (I kid ye not) and the superglue doesn't denature under the heat. I wouldn't do this with "main" brake pads though!!!
Leigh,if you are having probs with the rear end check calipers first,if you need to go the vented route you will need to do a bit of DIY,the caliper is not wide enough to allow the use of a vented disc so you need to have a couple of spacers made to allow the fitment of a wider vented disc (Lancia) from memory but that was for stopping saloons and you should not need it on our lightweight go karts.
tempus said:
Leigh,if you are having probs with the rear end check calipers first,if you need to go the vented route you will need to do a bit of DIY,the caliper is not wide enough to allow the use of a vented disc so you need to have a couple of spacers made to allow the fitment of a wider vented disc (Lancia) from memory but that was for stopping saloons and you should not need it on our lightweight go karts.
I think I may just need to adjust the bias a little, I think the calipers are fine, as it was fine for practice and race 1, just race 2 I was pushing very hard and breaking very late, I did not cook them as such, but they was smoking for a few minutes once I came back to the paddock, not as bad as my 400SE though when I had a sticky caliper on that (still need to swap them).Just thought while I'm doing some development I'd change them, I know I'll need to widen the calipers, plus a fully lighted saloon racer is not going to weigh much more than my 1100kg Tasmin.
I need to take all the back apart anyway to change the rear wheel bearing and UJ's so ideal time to have a play.
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