Heating on 24/7?
Discussion
This may be a copy of an old topic, but last week we decided to leave the heating on constantly and just turn the stat down in the evening and up a bit during the times that we are in. This was because the house always felt cold for ages until it had warmed up - especially first thing in the morning. We have subsequently found that we can leave the stat at 15 degrees and it keeps the house at just the right temperature. I assume that the (manual) stat may not be 100% acurate but we used to have to keep it at nearer to 20 degrees to keep the place warm. The next step is to buy a programmable stat.
One of my work colleagues has done this and claims to have reduced his gas bill. I'm happy if this works - but then I'm not too bothered if the overall consumption goes up slightly as the house is much nicer to live in now - and we don't get condensation on the windows any more overnight.
Just wondered if anyone else has any experience of this?
One of my work colleagues has done this and claims to have reduced his gas bill. I'm happy if this works - but then I'm not too bothered if the overall consumption goes up slightly as the house is much nicer to live in now - and we don't get condensation on the windows any more overnight.
Just wondered if anyone else has any experience of this?
Interesting.
After considering this for ages (Jeff Howell in the Daily telegraph recommends it regularly) I decided to start doing it from yesterday.
Need to fine tune things a bit as bedroom was too warm to sleep comfortably last night, but I'm sure I'll get the settings in each room right soon enough. In common with many houses locally I've no thermostats, just oil boiler and radiators, with no TRVs either.
The remarkable thing is the very low level the the rads are set at. They feel not much more than lukewarm to the touch but yet individual rooms are warm enough - just goes to show the value of keeping constant low level heat I guess.
I've measured my oil use carefully over the last 4 weeks so I'll try this for 4 weeks and see how I get on. Even if it costs a little more I'll be happy. In fact even if it just makes the bathroom a more pleasant place to be at 6:30 am, and cuts down the condensation in there after showering, then it'll be well worth spending an extra 10% or even 20% in the winter months.
The only problem is that it just feels so wrong to leave the heating on all day when we're not there and all night when we're in bed; just have to get over that mindset I suppose.
I'll report back on how I get on - be grateful if others would too.
After considering this for ages (Jeff Howell in the Daily telegraph recommends it regularly) I decided to start doing it from yesterday.
Need to fine tune things a bit as bedroom was too warm to sleep comfortably last night, but I'm sure I'll get the settings in each room right soon enough. In common with many houses locally I've no thermostats, just oil boiler and radiators, with no TRVs either.
The remarkable thing is the very low level the the rads are set at. They feel not much more than lukewarm to the touch but yet individual rooms are warm enough - just goes to show the value of keeping constant low level heat I guess.
I've measured my oil use carefully over the last 4 weeks so I'll try this for 4 weeks and see how I get on. Even if it costs a little more I'll be happy. In fact even if it just makes the bathroom a more pleasant place to be at 6:30 am, and cuts down the condensation in there after showering, then it'll be well worth spending an extra 10% or even 20% in the winter months.
The only problem is that it just feels so wrong to leave the heating on all day when we're not there and all night when we're in bed; just have to get over that mindset I suppose.
I'll report back on how I get on - be grateful if others would too.
Edited by mccrackenj on Monday 13th December 16:29
Edited by mccrackenj on Monday 13th December 16:30
ShadownINja said:
It's something I wonder about. I'd love to know if anyone's done any relevant calculations to see what uses the least amount of energy.
don't need calculations.The more you have it on, the more pisses out the cracks.
If you had a modulating boiler, that matched it's output to the demand, then it would work.
But you haven't, so it doesn't.
davethebunny said:
ShadownINja said:
It's something I wonder about. I'd love to know if anyone's done any relevant calculations to see what uses the least amount of energy.
don't need calculations.The more you have it on, the more pisses out the cracks.
It's an old wives' tale that it's cheaper to keep something warm all the time - the higher the temperature gradient (i.e. house --> outside), the higher the heat transfer, simple as that!(Having said that, I've also been keeping the heating on 24/7 as I have got round to programming the timer - what a hypocrite!
)Heating at 14 deg C when we are in the house, and reduce to around 10 deg C when we are out or asleep.
House is always a comfortable temperature, much better than coming in from work and putting it on waiting for it to heat up, or likewise waking up to a freezing house. It's Victorian house with single glazed bay and sash windows so quite leaky, I can't comment on the bills though - not been here long enough to do a comparison. For the 3 months (ish) of the year when you actually need the heating on it's worthwhile making the house a comfortable place to be in my opinion, unless you are living very frugally.
House is always a comfortable temperature, much better than coming in from work and putting it on waiting for it to heat up, or likewise waking up to a freezing house. It's Victorian house with single glazed bay and sash windows so quite leaky, I can't comment on the bills though - not been here long enough to do a comparison. For the 3 months (ish) of the year when you actually need the heating on it's worthwhile making the house a comfortable place to be in my opinion, unless you are living very frugally.
mccrackenj said:
Interesting.
After considering this for ages (Jeff Howell in the Daily telegraph recommends it regularly) I decided to start doing it from yesterday.
Need to fine tune things a bit as bedroom was too warm to sleep comfortably last night, but I'm sure I'll get the settings in each room right soon enough. In common with many houses locally I've no thermostats, just oil boiler and radiators, with no TRVs either.
Jeff Howell is basically correct in not allowing the building to drop below a certain ambient temperature, however, the way he describes of doing it, is not a good idea. After considering this for ages (Jeff Howell in the Daily telegraph recommends it regularly) I decided to start doing it from yesterday.
Need to fine tune things a bit as bedroom was too warm to sleep comfortably last night, but I'm sure I'll get the settings in each room right soon enough. In common with many houses locally I've no thermostats, just oil boiler and radiators, with no TRVs either.
Can I ask what controls you have on your system, and what type of system you have? Is it fully pumped, sealed system, pumped heating, gravity hot water? Do you not have a room stat?
If the building is Victorian, then I assume solid 9 inch brick walls? Loft insulated?
Do say, from what you seem to be saying, then your in for some bills, and a half. Sadly.
sinizter said:
Cheese Mechanic said:
FlossyThePig said:
Why not get a programmable thermostat that has different settings throughout the day?
Highly recommended. Does your roomstat switch the boiler directly, or a motorised valve?
Its best when the stat gives "positive shut off" , which is usually via a motorised valve, or in the case of a combi in heating mode.
It stops boiler cycling, the big drawback of TRV only systems.
Cheese Mechanic said:
sinizter said:
Cheese Mechanic said:
FlossyThePig said:
Why not get a programmable thermostat that has different settings throughout the day?
Highly recommended. Does your roomstat switch the boiler directly, or a motorised valve?
Its best when the stat gives "positive shut off" , which is usually via a motorised valve, or in the case of a combi in heating mode.
It stops boiler cycling, the big drawback of TRV only systems.
I think I have just answered my own question - I need to get a digital programmable control on the Boilermate rather than the dial one it has now. The thermostat can probably stay.
Please feel free to correct me if I have missed out something.
We've just had a new combi fitted in place of our very old and antiquated back boiler, cost £1500. Saving £40 a month on gas use now compared to that of old, but at moment we've got our on timed coming on for a few hours, then off for a few then on again. Nice and toasty at 6am for me getting up and getting home at 5.30pm! 
Have got a room thermostat in the living room, then the timer is on the boiler, boiler has a temp adjustment too, but we've tend to leave it on 'economy'. Haven't tried a lower temp yet but keeping it on for longer, may have too.
Have got a room thermostat in the living room, then the timer is on the boiler, boiler has a temp adjustment too, but we've tend to leave it on 'economy'. Haven't tried a lower temp yet but keeping it on for longer, may have too.sinizter said:
Cheese Mechanic said:
sinizter said:
Cheese Mechanic said:
FlossyThePig said:
Why not get a programmable thermostat that has different settings throughout the day?
Highly recommended. Does your roomstat switch the boiler directly, or a motorised valve?
Its best when the stat gives "positive shut off" , which is usually via a motorised valve, or in the case of a combi in heating mode.
It stops boiler cycling, the big drawback of TRV only systems.
I think I have just answered my own question - I need to get a digital programmable control on the Boilermate rather than the dial one it has now. The thermostat can probably stay.
Please feel free to correct me if I have missed out something.
Its very likely, that your stat will have 3 wires and an earth to it. That will be power in, switched line out, and neutral. With the digi stat I have, there is no need for the neutral.
The digi stats are far more accurate than the old dial type, and of course you can prog different temperatures for different times. Also, with remote handsets, you can carry them round the house with you. So if you are only in one room , you can control the heating from there, brilliant if you have TRV's , as you can turn those down in the rest of the house...considerable savings.
My Digi stat was about £50 from Toolstation, worthwhile upgrade at that price.
PaulG40 said:
We've just had a new combi fitted in place of our very old and antiquated back boiler, cost £1500. Saving £40 a month on gas use now compared to that of old, but at moment we've got our on timed coming on for a few hours, then off for a few then on again. Nice and toasty at 6am for me getting up and getting home at 5.30pm! Have got a room thermostat in the living room, then the timer is on the boiler, boiler has a temp adjustment too, but we've tend to leave it on 'economy'. Haven't tried a lower temp yet but keeping it on for longer, may have too.
Do not forget, that lowering the temp output of the boiler itself, can be more costly (hence the reason many boilers have a fixed stat) Have got a room thermostat in the living room, then the timer is on the boiler, boiler has a temp adjustment too, but we've tend to leave it on 'economy'. Haven't tried a lower temp yet but keeping it on for longer, may have too.Radiators are designed to receive water at 180f and to send it back to the boiler with an 11f fall. That is how rads are rated in a makers catalogue for output.
If you deliver water to a rad, at below that temp, it will never give the output it was designed for . Thus it throws out the system design.
What this means, is that although the boiler temp is lower, the boiler can fire more, as other control stats (roomstat) are constantly calling for heat.
A radiator is a heat emitter, that is what its designed to do...but if you do not deliver the level of heat it requires, it will never work at max efficiency, or indeed the system itself.
Edited by Cheese Mechanic on Monday 13th December 21:49
its not your boiler thats the issue, to most of it
its your house
the energy taken to heat the fabric of the building
and then how slow or fast it loses that heat
stick 3KW of energy in, but how long does it last, thats the question
in Germany they have built energy neutral buildings for trials
no heating required...just the heat from humans and light/cooking is enough to keep them comfortable
but the outlay and complexity of build is way off regular homes for now
stick 3 feet of insulation on all sides, seal all airvents and recirc with aircon etc, if theres no way for heat to get out, you can have the heating on for 10 mins in the morning and thats it....until you open a door
its your house
the energy taken to heat the fabric of the building
and then how slow or fast it loses that heat
stick 3KW of energy in, but how long does it last, thats the question
in Germany they have built energy neutral buildings for trials
no heating required...just the heat from humans and light/cooking is enough to keep them comfortable
but the outlay and complexity of build is way off regular homes for now
stick 3 feet of insulation on all sides, seal all airvents and recirc with aircon etc, if theres no way for heat to get out, you can have the heating on for 10 mins in the morning and thats it....until you open a door
Ultuous said:
davethebunny said:
ShadownINja said:
It's something I wonder about. I'd love to know if anyone's done any relevant calculations to see what uses the least amount of energy.
don't need calculations.The more you have it on, the more pisses out the cracks.
It's an old wives' tale that it's cheaper to keep something warm all the time - the higher the temperature gradient (i.e. house --> outside), the higher the heat transfer, simple as that!(Having said that, I've also been keeping the heating on 24/7 as I have got round to programming the timer - what a hypocrite!
)ShadownINja said:
Ultuous said:
davethebunny said:
ShadownINja said:
It's something I wonder about. I'd love to know if anyone's done any relevant calculations to see what uses the least amount of energy.
don't need calculations.The more you have it on, the more pisses out the cracks.
It's an old wives' tale that it's cheaper to keep something warm all the time - the higher the temperature gradient (i.e. house --> outside), the higher the heat transfer, simple as that!(Having said that, I've also been keeping the heating on 24/7 as I have got round to programming the timer - what a hypocrite!
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