vintage chrono?
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shirt

Original Poster:

25,077 posts

225 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
so, after my last post regarding 'what watch' to buy for my 30th, i've been having a little snoop around and am now back for advice & price info.

to recap, i was looking at a junghans max bill chronoscope for £995:


however i showed a pic of a vintage black face omega seamaster in the same post which i can't help be more drawn to in terms of style, quality & price. i do like th max bill, but i think the deco style would grate day to day.

i am now looking pretty much exclusively at the vintage & second hand market. its either this or ram raid my local jeweller for the glashutte sixties senator i just absolutely adore.

i have found a few vintage watch sites on the web but the models that have caught my eye are either from very old posts or have sold already. therefore i am after a guide price for any of the following watches if anyone can help? my budget limit was going to be £1500, but this is entirely dependent upon me being in employment in january, i should err towards £1k if i'm being sensible.

so, my selections so far are predominantly 60s chronographs. either black or white face, must be on a strap as i don't like bracelets:

omega calibre 320 chronograph [what is the model called?]



cal 321 speedmaster:


cal 321 seamaster:


breitling top time:



heuer carrera 12:





i think i prefer the breitling or the heuer, the omega would have to be a minter and i gather the price would be steeper for a speedmaster of this era. correct?

any other suggestions i should look at? i would consider a heuer re-issue but would prefer the nostalgia/romance/cachet of the original [call it what you will, i just like vintage stuff].

is my price range reasonable? and lastly, can you recommend a good site / dealer with a good reputation and decent turnover of these watches?


thanks for reading, all replies most welcome. looking at some of the sites i have so far, i feel an expensive habit is beginning to emerge....

sneijder

5,224 posts

258 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
Stick the kettle on and Google Heuerboy.

Inform family no Christmas presents this year.

ShadownINja

79,437 posts

306 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
They are beautiful. I do like vintage chronos. The only thing in the back of my mind is reliability and robustness. Say you pick up a less-well-known brand vintage chrono for £300. You accidentally whack your hand against a door frame... or clap too firmly... £300 bill to repair?

Vespula

3,190 posts

200 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
Have a look at this:

http://www.tz-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t...

Also, don't forget the Russians, a good bit cheaper.

shirt

Original Poster:

25,077 posts

225 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
sneijder said:
Stick the kettle on and Google Heuerboy.

Inform family no Christmas presents this year.
damn right, £2500+ for a carrera 12 frown

i have actually gone a little overboard on the family this year, in hope that my birthday watch fund is swelled a week later wink

Vespula said:
Have a look at this:

http://www.tz-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t...

Also, don't forget the Russians, a good bit cheaper.
will do, cheers.

i'm unsure about a brand i don't know as this is my first watch purchase above £100 and i am sure i will want something cheaper later in the year as a daily wear.


Vespula

3,190 posts

200 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
Most Russian chronographs are based on the Poljot 3133 movement (I think)

They are quite well respected and reasonably priced.

Here is a good site for Poljot:

http://www.poljot24.de/en/index.html

shirt

Original Poster:

25,077 posts

225 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
thanks. i know it smacks of brand snobbery which i normally don't adhere to, but if i'm blowing £1500 on a watch i do want it to be a name i recognise. i have seen some lovely pieces in the sub £500 range that will follow shortly if my contract is renewed and i do want a plain seamaster dress watch. see - the heurology bug has struck!

tz-uk forums are looking to be an excellent source of second hand bargains - a tag heuer monaco chronograph with black face for £1300 is currently making me rethink!

on those forums, what does RMSD mean?

Vespula

3,190 posts

200 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
Royal Mail Special Delivery

Vespula

3,190 posts

200 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
The Watch Forum is another good source for second-hand watches.

http://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?act=idx

shirt

Original Poster:

25,077 posts

225 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
cheers vespula, i forecast an unproductive saturday!

Bohemianesque

254 posts

188 months

Thursday 16th December 2010
quotequote all
I've had a couple of Top Times in the past. Not reliable or robust in my experience and at the time I had a great horologist/jeweller friend (RIP). Had a Speedy, loved it....bloody expensive to service.

I like the recommendations for Russians. Or maybe a Sinn? Or O&W?

I've a couple of vintage Seiko Chronos that I love and seem pretty robust.......

andy_s

19,816 posts

283 months

Friday 17th December 2010
quotequote all
Not being funny or anything but just making sure you know that all the chronos from the sixties were hand-wound.

shirt

Original Poster:

25,077 posts

225 months

Friday 17th December 2010
quotequote all
i have seen that yes. not a problem really, i haven't had a hand wound since i was a kid and being an engineer i won't be wearing it every day anyway. does a hand winder give any problems maintenance wise?

one more qn - did tag do a reissue of the carrera 12? i am slightly in love with it but can't realistically afford one.

Podie

46,647 posts

299 months

Friday 17th December 2010
quotequote all
Might be tight budget wise, but you could consider a Stowa...

shirt

Original Poster:

25,077 posts

225 months

Friday 17th December 2010
quotequote all
Vespula said:
Most Russian chronographs are based on the Poljot 3133 movement (I think)

They are quite well respected and reasonably priced.

Here is a good site for Poljot:

http://www.poljot24.de/en/index.html
i do like these:





food for thought, i could get one of these plus an omega or secondhand heuer reissue, or just one of these and save for the carrera scratchchin

Vespula

3,190 posts

200 months

Friday 17th December 2010
quotequote all
I like hand wind watches, they are slimmer than automatics and have less moving parts so potentialy there's less to go wrong.

Remember, all mechanical watches should be serviced every 5 years or so.

A lot of watch folks like Steve Burrage at Ryte Time for servicing.

Vespula

3,190 posts

200 months

Friday 17th December 2010
quotequote all
One more thing to bear in mind, the 3133 movement does not have a quick-set date.



Edited by Vespula on Friday 17th December 10:11

BluePurpleRed

1,138 posts

250 months

Friday 17th December 2010
quotequote all
Vespula said:
One more thing to bear in mind, the 3133 movement does not have a quick-set date.

Edited by Vespula on Friday 17th December 10:11
I'm wearing my Poljot Chrono today and yes, that is *super* annoying. Esp if it is 15 days behind. Winding it on that far feels bad for the watch. I am sure it isn't but on one occasion I was 28 days behind so I just left it for a few days!

Vespula

3,190 posts

200 months

Friday 17th December 2010
quotequote all
Alpha-Watch.com have these for $152USD, no date. Sea-Gull Chinese movement.

http://www.alpha-watch.com/sub.php?list=8



Edited by Vespula on Friday 17th December 15:56

sneijder

5,224 posts

258 months

Friday 17th December 2010
quotequote all
Have a look at the Seagull 1963 also.