led lights seem on when they are off
Discussion
hi,
i got some led kitchen lights to replace the halogen ones, the gu10 type ones
they are not very bright, but im willing to put up with them as the kids dont know that lights can be turned off,
and the halogen ones cost a fortune to run.
the thing is though the ones i put in my sons light seem to have a little bit of light in them when they are switched off, like one or two of each of the leds are staying on slightly,
they dont do it downstairs so why are they doing it in his room?
i got some led kitchen lights to replace the halogen ones, the gu10 type ones
they are not very bright, but im willing to put up with them as the kids dont know that lights can be turned off,
and the halogen ones cost a fortune to run.
the thing is though the ones i put in my sons light seem to have a little bit of light in them when they are switched off, like one or two of each of the leds are staying on slightly,
they dont do it downstairs so why are they doing it in his room?
LED GU10 should be avoided. Expensive, unreliable and shoddy light output as you have already mentioned. The issue is that you can't use powerful LED on that platform as there is nowhere to sufficiently sink the heat that said LED would generate and this leads to shorter life and lower light. The cooler you run the LED then the better output. One should always aim for less than 65 degrees. If they are getting less than that in a GU10 then there will be massive lack of power and therefore performance!
LED also does not dim using your usual dimmers from B&Q/Homebase etc. 12V will not dim full stop unless someone has put in special circuitary on the low voltage end which is not ideal. To dim LED well you should use products that run on constant current, usually 350 or 700mA which are powered by a dimmable driver (transformer) and are connected to an electronic trailing edge dimmer switch such as a Lutron Rania.
If you want something that works properly, try these from me: Special PH price if you contact me directly. Already a good report back from a PHer that has tried them! Our ZEP1 downlight uses just 5W of power but with a 420lumen output which makes for a real alternative to a GU10 or MR16 50W halogen. The 90% energy saving means a house with around 30 downlight spots should save around £500 per year on their energy bill.
LED also does not dim using your usual dimmers from B&Q/Homebase etc. 12V will not dim full stop unless someone has put in special circuitary on the low voltage end which is not ideal. To dim LED well you should use products that run on constant current, usually 350 or 700mA which are powered by a dimmable driver (transformer) and are connected to an electronic trailing edge dimmer switch such as a Lutron Rania.
If you want something that works properly, try these from me: Special PH price if you contact me directly. Already a good report back from a PHer that has tried them! Our ZEP1 downlight uses just 5W of power but with a 420lumen output which makes for a real alternative to a GU10 or MR16 50W halogen. The 90% energy saving means a house with around 30 downlight spots should save around £500 per year on their energy bill.
E36GUY said:
LED GU10 should be avoided. Expensive, unreliable and shoddy light output as you have already mentioned. The issue is that you can't use powerful LED on that platform as there is nowhere to sufficiently sink the heat that said LED would generate and this leads to shorter life and lower light. The cooler you run the LED then the better output. One should always aim for less than 65 degrees. If they are getting less than that in a GU10 then there will be massive lack of power and therefore performance!
LED also does not dim using your usual dimmers from B&Q/Homebase etc. 12V will not dim full stop unless someone has put in special circuitary on the low voltage end which is not ideal. To dim LED well you should use products that run on constant current, usually 350 or 700mA which are powered by a dimmable driver (transformer) and are connected to an electronic trailing edge dimmer switch such as a Lutron Rania.
If you want something that works properly, try these from me: Special PH price if you contact me directly. Already a good report back from a PHer that has tried them! Our ZEP1 downlight uses just 5W of power but with a 420lumen output which makes for a real alternative to a GU10 or MR16 50W halogen. The 90% energy saving means a house with around 30 downlight spots should save around £500 per year on their energy bill.
LED = cool, low energy consumption - I think you are a bit confused?LED also does not dim using your usual dimmers from B&Q/Homebase etc. 12V will not dim full stop unless someone has put in special circuitary on the low voltage end which is not ideal. To dim LED well you should use products that run on constant current, usually 350 or 700mA which are powered by a dimmable driver (transformer) and are connected to an electronic trailing edge dimmer switch such as a Lutron Rania.
If you want something that works properly, try these from me: Special PH price if you contact me directly. Already a good report back from a PHer that has tried them! Our ZEP1 downlight uses just 5W of power but with a 420lumen output which makes for a real alternative to a GU10 or MR16 50W halogen. The 90% energy saving means a house with around 30 downlight spots should save around £500 per year on their energy bill.
Anyway, OP, it is probably some residual capacitance somewhere and/or induced voltage in the cable, not really worth worrying about, LEDs with start to glow with a tiny voltage.
Mr GrimNasty said:
LED = cool, low energy consumption - I think you are a bit confused?
Sorry chap but no confusion here! It is a complete mis-conception on the part of much of the public that LED runs cool. It certainly does when compared with incandescent lamps but they definately heat up. If not properly sinked, LED can run well over 130degrees although that heat is localised within the LED itself - not blasted out into the air like a halogen lamp does. What you see in B&Q are traditional 5mm LEDs in a cluster giving out not very much light. They run cool as they have no power to speak of and hence why they can be clustered into a GU10 platform. This is also why GU10 is unsuitable for proper LED lighting solutions as there is no surface area to adequately heat sink a powerful LED.Have a look at the below, you can quite clearly see a huge difference in both appearence and size between a traditional 0.2Watt 5mm LED and a modern, extremely powerful 5Watt LED. If you leave the latter lamp swtiched on lying on your desk the heat sink makes for a very nice handwarmer at this time of year. The sink draws the heat away from the LED and stabilises it at a lower temperature.
Basically, with LED used for true illumination and to properly rival halogen, you will get heat. With these items and aiming for the expected life of 50,000 hours you need to make sure said LED runs at 65 degrees or less. The lower the temerature the longer the life and the higher the light output. This particular lamp, from just five watts has a 420 lumen output has an expected life of 60,000 hours and runs at about 54 degrees.
Something else to remember is that the wattage of a lamp is NOT an indicator of the light output. Case in point; if you dim your 50W halogen you are getting less light but using the same power. There are LED 'bulbs' on the market which will say 7 watts which to the layman would seem, "that must be more powerful than Guy's 5W lamp." Not at all, it may use more power but it's the lumen output and lux levels that are important and for and explaination of that go for the search engines!
And to finsh, a nice picture of a tree illuminated with my little single chip, 10W +800 lumen mini-floodlight
mine arent hot, they are bright in a small bedroom,
but in the kitchen they are not very bright at all,
i was more concerned about the kids leaving them on all the time rather than their brightness.
anyone who has kids will tell you they dont know things can be turned off,
that was my main reason to get them, their low consumption.
but in the kitchen they are not very bright at all,
i was more concerned about the kids leaving them on all the time rather than their brightness.
anyone who has kids will tell you they dont know things can be turned off,
that was my main reason to get them, their low consumption.
j4ckos mate said:
mine arent hot, they are bright in a small bedroom,
but in the kitchen they are not very bright at all,
i was more concerned about the kids leaving them on all the time rather than their brightness.
anyone who has kids will tell you they dont know things can be turned off,
that was my main reason to get them, their low consumption.
I've got a kitchen full of them and swear by them. They are cooler than the lamps they replaced, give out a slightly narrower beam angle (were I redoing a room I would have specced a couple more in the room to compensate for the narrower beam angle) and haven't blown since they were installed (used to replace a GU10 from any brand at least once a fortnight) the ones I bought were recommended on another thread and weren't cheap at £14 each but they have now paid for themselves. Sadly they are showing as out of stock now and I don't know if they'll be replaced. but in the kitchen they are not very bright at all,
i was more concerned about the kids leaving them on all the time rather than their brightness.
anyone who has kids will tell you they dont know things can be turned off,
that was my main reason to get them, their low consumption.
Don't buy from B&Q, they will be s
t. Megaman have good reviews, haven't tried them myself.Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff