Smoking engine after rebuild? Never again. Chapter two.
Smoking engine after rebuild? Never again. Chapter two.
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camelotr

Original Poster:

570 posts

192 months

Sunday 19th December 2010
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Some of You may remember my recent problems with a pair of mini engines. They smoked badly after a fresh rebuild.
With the help I have got here, I have found out that the machinist did some misterious error at the honing. After redoing the engines at a different place, the smoking ended.

Solving the problem took half a year, plus a small fortune. I decided to either "a", once and for all stop working with classics, especialy engines or "b", try to take up the knowhow and the tools and make theese jobs myself.

As You may find out, "b" is my answer. Now I am trying to learn some basics of the art of engine machine work. If I can gather the funds, I will buy some tools and do the lion's share of the work myself.

Nice daydream? Maybe...

camelotr

Original Poster:

570 posts

192 months

Sunday 19th December 2010
quotequote all
Now I would like to ask Your help.

Especialy Pumaracing...

I have a nice donor engine. This time it is a 6 cylinder C-series. I would like to rebuild this engine, including some cylinder head modifiations (only minor "optimalizing" keeping the original valve sizes).

What are the first steps to prepare a full rebuild?

As an 0. step, I have made an engine crane to make handling easier.

Please advice my thurder.



Edited by camelotr on Sunday 19th December 17:19

Pumaracing

2,089 posts

231 months

Sunday 19th December 2010
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Szétszerelni, tudd meg, mi dolgunk van, akkor tudunk tanácsot tovább.

Edited by Pumaracing on Sunday 19th December 18:48

Pumaracing

2,089 posts

231 months

Sunday 19th December 2010
quotequote all
I speak a few languages but Hungarian is just utter gibberish. Doesn't seem to have any resemblance to others I know. I think I'll skip learning this one and revert to English.

camelotr

Original Poster:

570 posts

192 months

Sunday 19th December 2010
quotequote all
cool

Hungarian is a strange language. With no real close relationship to any other european languages. There are some ties with finnish though. Our origins go back to the far east.

Not quite an easy language to learn.

Soo, I will remove the head tomorow, and report.

Are there any requirements with the outside cleaning of the block?

Milky Bar Kid

137 posts

199 months

Monday 20th December 2010
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The only real requirement is to make it as clean as you can, as the less muck there is on the outside the less there is to get inside too. And you'll find it easier if you can alter the stand to allow you to rotate the engine. It makes it much easier to get at the insides, unless you've already done so.

camelotr

Original Poster:

570 posts

192 months

Monday 20th December 2010
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How about bemoving the rust? Is there any good solution?

Pumaracing

2,089 posts

231 months

Monday 20th December 2010
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Wire brush on an electric drill.

Pigeon

18,535 posts

270 months

Monday 20th December 2010
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Milky Bar Kid said:
The only real requirement is to make it as clean as you can, as the less muck there is on the outside the less there is to get inside too.
Not always the case smile

I used to do a fair bit of replacing pistons, cylinders and crankshaft assemblies on Stihl TS350 cutoff saws - they were forever getting screwed, either from lack of two-stroke oil or from people continuing to run them with the air filter completely clogged with brick/concrete dust which resulted in them sucking a hole in the filter and breathing in unfiltered dust. There would always be brick dust caked all over the outside of them and I had the option of either giving it a good go over in the parts washer before rebuilding it, or simply taking it apart carefully without disturbing the caked-on dust and only cleaning it off after I'd put them back together. I found it much easier to avoid getting dust inside the works if I didn't clean them first - the stuff was so fine it would get everywhere once the layer was disturbed, and there would be a fine grittiness over everything which you couldn't get rid of - not helped by the dust being so fine that it went straight through the filter in the parts washer, and made worse by the company being too tight to change the washer fluid more than once a year...

Granted these were somewhat special circumstances and not generally applicable to a car engine, but it does show that sometimes it is better not to clean things smile

camelotr

Original Poster:

570 posts

192 months

Monday 20th December 2010
quotequote all
Sorry for not reporting today. I have go the chassis of the car back from the sandblasters, and I was bussy with priming preparations/priming.
I will remove the head tomorow, and have a look at the bores.

daviewonder

40 posts

202 months

Saturday 15th January 2011
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Any updates?

porka911t

67 posts

229 months

Sunday 16th January 2011
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You may want to take a look at this web site, southern engines they give a fair description of what you want to know.
I spent 30 years reboring blocks, not making excuses for the people who bored your mini blocks but they are of a very course material and require a minimum of 2-3 thou to be honed out after boring.

Good luck with the project