Chim Mark 3 headlights kit installation question
Discussion
Hi guys,
I have a quick question. I would like to have an idea how the mark 3 headlights of a Chimaera should be installed? What is the standard and/or correct procedure? Also how they are installed from the factory? The kit I have now consists of 2x headlamp pods, glass covers and headlamps (reflector, lens and bulb).
Also if somebody could post some pictures of a job done/in-progress... that would be just perfect.
Thanks
-Andy
I have a quick question. I would like to have an idea how the mark 3 headlights of a Chimaera should be installed? What is the standard and/or correct procedure? Also how they are installed from the factory? The kit I have now consists of 2x headlamp pods, glass covers and headlamps (reflector, lens and bulb).
Also if somebody could post some pictures of a job done/in-progress... that would be just perfect.

Thanks
-Andy
Do a quick forum search and you should find some hints. I upgraded mine in 2009 (see my profile pic) - it's not a difficult job but you have to be happy working with a dremel to cut the old lamp bowls out. I would recommend fitting a modwise lighting relay kit at the same time.
Briefly and as best as I can remember, cut out an A4 sized access panel in each wheel arch centred around the existing round one (you can close it off later with sheet of fibreglass or thin metal). You don't want to be struggling through too small a hole. Cut out the old bezels and with a dremel flapper-wheel smooth the inside and keep trying the perspex bits until you have a good fit. You need a good flat contact area for the sealant that will eventually bond the pod in place.
Make up the pods off the car (sand, prime, paint, lacquer etc) and test fit light units (finding correct orientation is tricky - no tips, just keep trying). . Without light units, bond perspex to pod and leave to set (Julian at Fibreon can supply top notch sealant, don't use bathroom stuff). Now bond pods to car. Sounds easy but do lots of trial fits to decide how you will support pods while sealant cures. (tip is to use a few of those bathroom sucker things to apply a gentle pull from outside).
Last bit is to put a nice thin bead of sealant around the join. Best tip I saw on the forum was to buy some fine lining tape and use this to control the bead width (It's plastic and so can be stretched around curves without wrinkles - again practice a bit first). Then apply the bead and use a flexible piece of wetted pipe (such as windscreen washer pipe) to get a nice shape to it. You'll need a support for the back end of the pod and any metal or strong plastic barcket will do. Vacuum crap out of pods, clean perspex from inside, fit lights, align beams, fit covers and job done.
I reckon it took me about 20 hours spread across a week. Most difficult bit is making that first cut with the Dremel! (While cutting and sanding keep roof on with doors & windows closed, use a vacuum and wear a dust mask, Screwfix do good ones for about a tenner, not those useless paper jobbies that you can't breathe through).
Have fun,
Ian.
Briefly and as best as I can remember, cut out an A4 sized access panel in each wheel arch centred around the existing round one (you can close it off later with sheet of fibreglass or thin metal). You don't want to be struggling through too small a hole. Cut out the old bezels and with a dremel flapper-wheel smooth the inside and keep trying the perspex bits until you have a good fit. You need a good flat contact area for the sealant that will eventually bond the pod in place.
Make up the pods off the car (sand, prime, paint, lacquer etc) and test fit light units (finding correct orientation is tricky - no tips, just keep trying). . Without light units, bond perspex to pod and leave to set (Julian at Fibreon can supply top notch sealant, don't use bathroom stuff). Now bond pods to car. Sounds easy but do lots of trial fits to decide how you will support pods while sealant cures. (tip is to use a few of those bathroom sucker things to apply a gentle pull from outside).
Last bit is to put a nice thin bead of sealant around the join. Best tip I saw on the forum was to buy some fine lining tape and use this to control the bead width (It's plastic and so can be stretched around curves without wrinkles - again practice a bit first). Then apply the bead and use a flexible piece of wetted pipe (such as windscreen washer pipe) to get a nice shape to it. You'll need a support for the back end of the pod and any metal or strong plastic barcket will do. Vacuum crap out of pods, clean perspex from inside, fit lights, align beams, fit covers and job done.
I reckon it took me about 20 hours spread across a week. Most difficult bit is making that first cut with the Dremel! (While cutting and sanding keep roof on with doors & windows closed, use a vacuum and wear a dust mask, Screwfix do good ones for about a tenner, not those useless paper jobbies that you can't breathe through).
Have fun,
Ian.
Try http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=635... or search for a topic called 'Head Light Conversion' started by Phil Thompson on 17th jan 2009.
Ian.
Ian.
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