Focus 1.8tdci engine light
Discussion
Hi guys,
My Focus's engine management light came on today, which I was cruising at about 70mph. The car feels no different, with no unusual noises.
I do, co-incidentally have a code reader available, which gave a read error (does the engine need to be running for these to work?)
The only thing I've noticed lately is it taking a few turns to start, but I just put that down to 'diesel in cold weather'.
Any ideas would be appreciated!
Cheers.
My Focus's engine management light came on today, which I was cruising at about 70mph. The car feels no different, with no unusual noises.
I do, co-incidentally have a code reader available, which gave a read error (does the engine need to be running for these to work?)
The only thing I've noticed lately is it taking a few turns to start, but I just put that down to 'diesel in cold weather'.
Any ideas would be appreciated!
Cheers.
More info for this:
Car started fine this morning, it's much milder today. Tested the battery and fuses, which are fine. Also tested that the alternator is giving a charge, it is.
Am I urinating in the wind so to speak and need to get it down to the garage, or is there something else obvious I can check?
Car started fine this morning, it's much milder today. Tested the battery and fuses, which are fine. Also tested that the alternator is giving a charge, it is.
Am I urinating in the wind so to speak and need to get it down to the garage, or is there something else obvious I can check?
The plot thickens. I stuck the car in diagnostic mode, courtesy of a useful guide here: http://www.fordst170.co.uk/useful.php
This diagnostic thing is very cool, showing all kinds of interesting numbers. But no error codes! It actually says 'none' on the instrument cluster when the engine light is on right next to it! Such audacity.
Eta: it seems the DTC codes on the dash are just for instrument dash and doesn't cover the PCM. Trip to the stealer it is.
This diagnostic thing is very cool, showing all kinds of interesting numbers. But no error codes! It actually says 'none' on the instrument cluster when the engine light is on right next to it! Such audacity.
Eta: it seems the DTC codes on the dash are just for instrument dash and doesn't cover the PCM. Trip to the stealer it is.
Edited by Simbu on Tuesday 28th December 16:51
It may be a poor connection on the loom somewhere, or a momentary glitch that got logged by the ECU which latched the fault light on.
Try unplugging / reconnecting all the major components (loom 16 way grey and black connectors, IMV and Fuel temp (back of pump), Cam sensor), then disconnect the battery for 5 minutes before reconnecting.
Try unplugging / reconnecting all the major components (loom 16 way grey and black connectors, IMV and Fuel temp (back of pump), Cam sensor), then disconnect the battery for 5 minutes before reconnecting.
Hi Neill, thanks for your reply. Well, the car ended up at the garage today. Turns out the turbo charger is over-boosting, and then to stop it damaging itself from overboost cutting off the boost. This can apparently be felt higher up the rev range (I've not noticed, but I don't rev it especially highly).
They've not diagnosed an exact cause yet, might be a sensor or the turbo itself. Either way, it's looking expensive
They've not diagnosed an exact cause yet, might be a sensor or the turbo itself. Either way, it's looking expensive
It might be the MAP sensor, or the vanes on the turbo could be sticking - which is quite common.
If you have a vacuum operated turbo you can press the actuator and feel if the vanes are sticking.
It may be the CVT valve which supplies the vacuum to the actuator, or the vacuum line itself.
If you have an 'electric' turbo with an REA (black box on the side of the turbo), then it's more than likely this that has failed.
To check vane movement on these you have to remove the 'C' clip from the end of the actuator arm and then the arm itself.
Let me know what they diagnose and don't shell out anything just yet - I may be able to help out.
Which model / engine spec do you have?
If you have a vacuum operated turbo you can press the actuator and feel if the vanes are sticking.
It may be the CVT valve which supplies the vacuum to the actuator, or the vacuum line itself.
If you have an 'electric' turbo with an REA (black box on the side of the turbo), then it's more than likely this that has failed.
To check vane movement on these you have to remove the 'C' clip from the end of the actuator arm and then the arm itself.
Let me know what they diagnose and don't shell out anything just yet - I may be able to help out.
Which model / engine spec do you have?
Edited by nelly1 on Thursday 30th December 12:38
The engine is the Duratorq TDCi 1.8 115ps output model. Car is mk1.5 Focus. It does have a variable vane turbo (Garrett i believe).
I've made it clear to Ford that they aren't to spend much on working on the car and to call me once they've diagnosed it, as I'm actually planning on selling it. I'm doing very few miles lately so don't really need a diesel and i'd like something more interesting.
Thanks for your help
I've made it clear to Ford that they aren't to spend much on working on the car and to call me once they've diagnosed it, as I'm actually planning on selling it. I'm doing very few miles lately so don't really need a diesel and i'd like something more interesting.
Thanks for your help
Gassing Station | Ford | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff