Am I hammering it hard enough??
Discussion
17k myself, but I reckon it's not whether or not you hammer it, but whether you do so smoothly.
If the car's set up right and the tyres are actually gripping most of the time (see other threads on wheelspinning) you're not going to have high wear rates until very high speed, i.e. trackdays, and associated much increased temperatures.
Do you lock the wheels up when you brake, either?
If the car's set up right and the tyres are actually gripping most of the time (see other threads on wheelspinning) you're not going to have high wear rates until very high speed, i.e. trackdays, and associated much increased temperatures.
Do you lock the wheels up when you brake, either?
Sort of technique I learned on bikes and try to keep up for smoothness and safety. So how do others have such high wear rates??? 
like you, 5ltvr, I'd love to know.
Changed rear tyres this morning at Roadwheel - Gary said "you chaged those here 11 months ago, that's not very good!" Surprised him when I pointed out that 11 months ago was 17,000 miles
like you, 5ltvr, I'd love to know. Changed rear tyres this morning at Roadwheel - Gary said "you chaged those here 11 months ago, that's not very good!" Surprised him when I pointed out that 11 months ago was 17,000 miles
Official pub excuses: Four wheel drifting... power sliding, using the throttle to steer to save wearing out the PAS... more power than should be allowed.
Reality: Badly set up suspension, incorrect tyre pressures, bad driving style, locking up and flat spotting etc etc
The rear tyres on the 520 last around the 1200-2000 miles depending on how many test track days. Mainly due to the car being mentally overpowered and being driven solely in competition (except fro the trundle to and from the circuit). Fronts are a lot better these days now I have the suspension rebuild and sorted out again. Typically I need around 20 tyres a season judging form the last few years. Now buy the things in bulk.
The Griff shopping trolley consumed tyres at Mallory but that circuit is notorious for that anyway. It doesn't help living in the land of the roundabout and suffering from RTS (roundabout tyre syndrome). The wear is no where near as bad as the 520.
Steve
Reality: Badly set up suspension, incorrect tyre pressures, bad driving style, locking up and flat spotting etc etc
The rear tyres on the 520 last around the 1200-2000 miles depending on how many test track days. Mainly due to the car being mentally overpowered and being driven solely in competition (except fro the trundle to and from the circuit). Fronts are a lot better these days now I have the suspension rebuild and sorted out again. Typically I need around 20 tyres a season judging form the last few years. Now buy the things in bulk.
The Griff shopping trolley consumed tyres at Mallory but that circuit is notorious for that anyway. It doesn't help living in the land of the roundabout and suffering from RTS (roundabout tyre syndrome). The wear is no where near as bad as the 520.
Steve
10,000 miles and still going strong on my Griff 500. And, there's a track day in there too!
What gets me is that all the other people I know that have owned TVRs have wrapped them arround trees, landed in fields, etc, etc. I am concious of not hammering as hard as I could but I also want to be the first not to trash my pride and joy. And anyway, whats the point when the only cars that challenge around here (NE England) tend to be Novas...
What gets me is that all the other people I know that have owned TVRs have wrapped them arround trees, landed in fields, etc, etc. I am concious of not hammering as hard as I could but I also want to be the first not to trash my pride and joy. And anyway, whats the point when the only cars that challenge around here (NE England) tend to be Novas...
quote:
5500 miles later in new Chimaera 500 both front and rear tyres (SO2's)still look almost new - scrubbed off the edges so nice and round profile but tread depth is a good 5/6mm at a guess. I just wondered as it seems some of you guys only get 6k odd out of yours
D
You might find that the edges wear through to canvas PDQ, way before the centre tread is anywhere near the wear bars. Check the inside edges as well.
Steve
quote:
Do you lock the wheels up when you brake, either?
I was presented with an Audi TT pulling out infront of me the other day. I Was slightly concerned at how much effort is required when emergency braking. Further experimentation puzzled me as to how difficult it is to lock the wheels up. Is this the norm.
P.S 95 Chimaera
Regards
Darren
I got over 20k miles out of my last lot of SO2's, including several trackdays. I tend not to brake hard if I don't need to, engine bracking is often pretty effective. I don't wheel spin that often, although I tend to leave lights pretty quick, the back end comes out occasionally but usually in the wet.
I think you should only hammer it as hard as you are comfortable with, I don't even approach the cars limits on the road.
I think you should only hammer it as hard as you are comfortable with, I don't even approach the cars limits on the road.
quote:
engine bracking is often pretty effective.
Gears are for accelerating, brakes are for stopping.
I hope by engine braking you mean lifting off and not using the gears instead of the barkes to stop the car. If you are then don't do it because it is probably the most common reason why TVR owners spin their cars. The reason is that under braking the weight moves to the front and increases the grip on the front wheels and reduces it on the rear. Engine braking means that the braking now is applied through the rear where there is less grip and there is less control. Hit a slippery patch or get the revs wrong or bring the clutch up too much and the rear wheels lock up and it's goodnight Vienna, NCB and so on.
Also the brake pads are cheaper to replace than clutches, transmssion, UJs and so on.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Yes, I meant lifting off and letting the engine slow me down. I wouldn't do this instead of using the brakes, but in normal driving, if you have a good distance between you and the car in front, or a corner or whatever, then it's not always necessary (or even quicker) to accelerate up then brake hard.
Obviously I try to always be aware of how the weight is distributed etc, this is fundamental if you want to drive smoothely, which is what it's all about.
I don't seem to go through tyres OR gearboxes :-)
Obviously I try to always be aware of how the weight is distributed etc, this is fundamental if you want to drive smoothely, which is what it's all about.
I don't seem to go through tyres OR gearboxes :-)
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