Laying oak flooring - different substrates, same room?
Discussion
Now then.
After some advice on laying real oak flooring (125mm x 18mm T+G boards).
The space is an extension that consists of a large area of the existing floor boards, a new bit of plywood floor boards and then a small 2m x 2m (approx) section of concrete that used to be the old kitchen floor.
The old kitchen bit is way off level, as was the rest of the house so will need a screed application to bring this up the same as the rest.
I was going to apply a DPM epoxy resin to the newly levelled bit then secret nail the new boards directly to the wooden floorboards and chipboard flooring and then just float it over the old concerete part.
How would you do it??
After some advice on laying real oak flooring (125mm x 18mm T+G boards).
The space is an extension that consists of a large area of the existing floor boards, a new bit of plywood floor boards and then a small 2m x 2m (approx) section of concrete that used to be the old kitchen floor.
The old kitchen bit is way off level, as was the rest of the house so will need a screed application to bring this up the same as the rest.
I was going to apply a DPM epoxy resin to the newly levelled bit then secret nail the new boards directly to the wooden floorboards and chipboard flooring and then just float it over the old concerete part.
How would you do it??
You could do it like that, depends on the height difference, but if there's over 3/4" I'd be tempted to screw fix some battens (roof tile battens depending on height) of the right depth (and/or use packers) to bring the level of the concrete area up to match the existing floorboards and secret nail the lot. I assume the existing boards are level enough to floor over and you have clearance for doors etc? How come you're not stripping off the existing and nailing straight into the joists?
Ta for the replies.
The difference in level is pretty small and not even all the way round. The existing concrete bit (old kitchen floor) is pitched down at an angle slightly to one side due to the whole house tipping back slightly over the last 80 years. The difference is only about 30mm at most so battens are out.
WRT to lifting all the existing floor boards and laying on the joists, not an option given the guys need a floor to work on and the wood isn't delivered 'till last week in Jan. It's mean all the programming would go to $hit given they are due first thing to lay the floor insulation and boards.
I'm leaning toward - levelling compound/screed, paint on DPC, glue to floor with T&G also glued. The rest will be secret nailed wth T&G glued.
Typical of this kind of job, there's 4 ways of doing it and all are wrong depending on who you ask!!
The difference in level is pretty small and not even all the way round. The existing concrete bit (old kitchen floor) is pitched down at an angle slightly to one side due to the whole house tipping back slightly over the last 80 years. The difference is only about 30mm at most so battens are out.
WRT to lifting all the existing floor boards and laying on the joists, not an option given the guys need a floor to work on and the wood isn't delivered 'till last week in Jan. It's mean all the programming would go to $hit given they are due first thing to lay the floor insulation and boards.
I'm leaning toward - levelling compound/screed, paint on DPC, glue to floor with T&G also glued. The rest will be secret nailed wth T&G glued.
Typical of this kind of job, there's 4 ways of doing it and all are wrong depending on who you ask!!
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff