help! wheel rusted in place.
Discussion
hello.
i have a mk2 mondeo and i am trying to change a wheel but it's rusted on. squirted it with wd40 and tapped the join between the disc brake and wheel with a chisel and hammer (i know, i know) but nothing seems to be working. i have a crowbar which is about a foot long and am looking for a long steel tubular thingy for more leverage but can't find one.
anybody know of anything i can do as there is a wealth of knowledge on here!
cheers in advance.
i have a mk2 mondeo and i am trying to change a wheel but it's rusted on. squirted it with wd40 and tapped the join between the disc brake and wheel with a chisel and hammer (i know, i know) but nothing seems to be working. i have a crowbar which is about a foot long and am looking for a long steel tubular thingy for more leverage but can't find one.
anybody know of anything i can do as there is a wealth of knowledge on here!
cheers in advance.
I think it's something to do with the two different types of metal (wheel and hub) reacting with eachother.
You could try a rubber mallet on the inner wheel rim. It does sometimes take quite a bit of force to free a stuck alloy.
Make sure you put some copper grease or similar on the hub face when you put the wheel back on!
You could try a rubber mallet on the inner wheel rim. It does sometimes take quite a bit of force to free a stuck alloy.
Make sure you put some copper grease or similar on the hub face when you put the wheel back on!
Petrolhead_Rich said:
Major Fallout said:
Put the nuts back on, but not tight. Then go for a little drive. 
This ^^^^^ 
Only need to be slightly slack, reverse down drive and bang on the brakes, then drive back up, bang on the brakes, jack car up, remove nuts and wheel will fall off

I would do the above- but dont go far and dont go fast. Back and forward, plenty of sharp breaking
I consider tyre fitters to be the experts at this, and have only ever observed two approaches:
1. lie under the car and kick the hell out of it with big boots on
2. stand with back to the wheel and kick the hell out of it with big boots on
I'm sure you can see the common theme here.
1. lie under the car and kick the hell out of it with big boots on
2. stand with back to the wheel and kick the hell out of it with big boots on
I'm sure you can see the common theme here.
Edited by john_p on Wednesday 5th January 14:31
Kicking method is fine until one of the following happens (speaking from experience):
1) wheel falls off and hits you in the shin
2) slip and fall
3) slip and kick car bodywork
4) stub toe on car bodywork
5) car falls off jack
Having bought many old wrecks over the years for peanuts to rally round fields, rusted wheels and brakes are a common problem and easily solved by driving a couple of meters with the wheel nuts slackened, hammers, wood, kicking etc will end in damage, injury or just have no effect!
1) wheel falls off and hits you in the shin
2) slip and fall
3) slip and kick car bodywork
4) stub toe on car bodywork
5) car falls off jack
Having bought many old wrecks over the years for peanuts to rally round fields, rusted wheels and brakes are a common problem and easily solved by driving a couple of meters with the wheel nuts slackened, hammers, wood, kicking etc will end in damage, injury or just have no effect!
Ozzie Osmond said:
This is one of the many everyday situations one of those rare cases where the "big hammer" is genuinely appropriate. As above, it's best used with a large block of wood. And as above, a light smear of copper grease to prevent future corrosion.
EFAOP - I've always gone for the "slacken the nuts and drive forwards and backwards a bit" approach, myself. It'll be loose no time.
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