E39 Traction Control Light
Discussion
spooky had the same thing happen to me last night on the way back from the station.
after about half a mile of driving the traction light came on along with the ABS light - pulled over, turned off and back on again and they both went out.
Is this a sign of low brake pads or something more sinister?
after about half a mile of driving the traction light came on along with the ABS light - pulled over, turned off and back on again and they both went out.
Is this a sign of low brake pads or something more sinister?
I had the exact same issue - although mine had DSC. Had it "refurbed" and solved the problem for 3 months, it came on again - new ABS Module required.
Get it properly diagnosed, a decent specialist will have the correct equipment - then if it is the module speak to BBA Reman (Google it)
Be warned though - mine was misdiagnosed twice as a brake pressure sensor and a wheel sensor, both of which i replaced at cost - the whole episode cost me £500.
Get it properly diagnosed, a decent specialist will have the correct equipment - then if it is the module speak to BBA Reman (Google it)
Be warned though - mine was misdiagnosed twice as a brake pressure sensor and a wheel sensor, both of which i replaced at cost - the whole episode cost me £500.
Thanks for your help all.
Just to round this off, and to help anyone who finds this thread through a search in 5 years time, check this first before buying any expensive valves, motors or computers:
There's a cable that links the throttle to a little magic box (£200) that kills the throttle when ASC tells it to. If this snaps, the traction control system is isolated from the throttle, the ECU can't test the ASC system when the ignition is turned on and so shows the light. Replacing this broken cable is very cheap and very easy.
So, £6 and 10 minutes later, all is well in my world.
Just to round this off, and to help anyone who finds this thread through a search in 5 years time, check this first before buying any expensive valves, motors or computers:
There's a cable that links the throttle to a little magic box (£200) that kills the throttle when ASC tells it to. If this snaps, the traction control system is isolated from the throttle, the ECU can't test the ASC system when the ignition is turned on and so shows the light. Replacing this broken cable is very cheap and very easy.
So, £6 and 10 minutes later, all is well in my world.
Started up this morning and both traction control and abs lights on - first time its done this since 12th jan - tried turning it off and on as this cleared it last time - still illuminated.
Does this point to an abs module fault or do you think it could be a dirty sensor?
Are these warning lamps used to indicate low pads as well or is that a different symbol?
Guess its off the garage for me
Does this point to an abs module fault or do you think it could be a dirty sensor?
Are these warning lamps used to indicate low pads as well or is that a different symbol?
Guess its off the garage for me
mattman said:
Started up this morning and both traction control and abs lights on - first time its done this since 12th jan - tried turning it off and on as this cleared it last time - still illuminated.
Does this point to an abs module fault or do you think it could be a dirty sensor?
Are these warning lamps used to indicate low pads as well or is that a different symbol?
Guess its off the garage for me
Have someone sit in the car and cycle the ignition whilst you peer curiously into the engine bay. Looking from the front of the car, on the right near the throttle is a little black cylinder shaped gizmo attached to the N/S inner wheel turret.Does this point to an abs module fault or do you think it could be a dirty sensor?
Are these warning lamps used to indicate low pads as well or is that a different symbol?
Guess its off the garage for me
This is linked by a short cable to the throttle. As the ignition is turned on, the ASC will test this link by tugging the cable to check it will work (it kills the throttle) when it needs to. Just make sure that this is actually working.
If it isn't doing its thing then it might be a snapped cable (lucky you) or a knackered ASC gizmo (unlucky you).
Although, the meaning of the ABS light in this scenario is a mystery to me, so the above may be entirely irrevelant.
Mattman,
had similar problem on my E39 recently - ABS and trac control lights. My mechanic warned me that it could be the ABS module at £200+. Luckily it turned out to be a front ABS sensor. All fixed now for about £100.
You really need someone with the correct diagnostic equipment to plug in to the car and read the fault codes for a definitive diagnosis.
Good luck.
These light have nothing to do with pad wear. The ABS sensors provide information to the traction control system (also to the auto gearbox). That's why a fault can trigger both lights.
pp
had similar problem on my E39 recently - ABS and trac control lights. My mechanic warned me that it could be the ABS module at £200+. Luckily it turned out to be a front ABS sensor. All fixed now for about £100.
You really need someone with the correct diagnostic equipment to plug in to the car and read the fault codes for a definitive diagnosis.
Good luck.
These light have nothing to do with pad wear. The ABS sensors provide information to the traction control system (also to the auto gearbox). That's why a fault can trigger both lights.
pp
Edited by Pickled Piper on Monday 24th January 11:30
BarnatosGhost said:
Thanks for your help all.
Just to round this off, and to help anyone who finds this thread through a search in 5 years time, check this first before buying any expensive valves, motors or computers:
There's a cable that links the throttle to a little magic box (£200) that kills the throttle when ASC tells it to. If this snaps, the traction control system is isolated from the throttle, the ECU can't test the ASC system when the ignition is turned on and so shows the light. Replacing this broken cable is very cheap and very easy.
So, £6 and 10 minutes later, all is well in my world.
This.. Last year my ASC light illuminated, turned out to be a snapped cable.Just to round this off, and to help anyone who finds this thread through a search in 5 years time, check this first before buying any expensive valves, motors or computers:
There's a cable that links the throttle to a little magic box (£200) that kills the throttle when ASC tells it to. If this snaps, the traction control system is isolated from the throttle, the ECU can't test the ASC system when the ignition is turned on and so shows the light. Replacing this broken cable is very cheap and very easy.
So, £6 and 10 minutes later, all is well in my world.
While we're on the subject I've just had this on mine. I replaced the rear NS sensor but I had to drill it out 
and I reckon I've mashed the reluctor ring in the process 
She works fine apart from below about 20 MPH when the ABS pumps. Are there any other likely causes? It kinda makes sense, a small semi circular divot in the ring would appear to be the wheel locking up
Am I right in thinking the reluctor is built into the rear wheel bearing and if so what kind of a job is it to change it?
and I reckon I've mashed the reluctor ring in the process She works fine apart from below about 20 MPH when the ABS pumps. Are there any other likely causes? It kinda makes sense, a small semi circular divot in the ring would appear to be the wheel locking up
Am I right in thinking the reluctor is built into the rear wheel bearing and if so what kind of a job is it to change it?
BliarOut said:
While we're on the subject I've just had this on mine. I replaced the rear NS sensor but I had to drill it out and I reckon I've mashed the reluctor ring in the process
She works fine apart from below about 20 MPH when the ABS pumps. Are there any other likely causes? It kinda makes sense, a small semi circular divot in the ring would appear to be the wheel locking up
Am I right in thinking the reluctor is built into the rear wheel bearing and if so what kind of a job is it to change it?
You won't have harmed the wheel bearing, the reluctor is part of the output shaft outer CV joint assembly, it looks like a castleated ring, you will need to remove the drive shaft to replace it.. and I reckon I've mashed the reluctor ring in the process She works fine apart from below about 20 MPH when the ABS pumps. Are there any other likely causes? It kinda makes sense, a small semi circular divot in the ring would appear to be the wheel locking up
Am I right in thinking the reluctor is built into the rear wheel bearing and if so what kind of a job is it to change it?
I *thought* according to this it was built into the bearing?
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f15/2000-e39-5...
Not doubting you, just gathering info before I look at it again
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/f15/2000-e39-5...
Not doubting you, just gathering info before I look at it again
I had a wheel speed sensor fail on my 528i.
Symptoms were ASC light (no big deal) and speedo/rev counter dead (somewhat bigger deal).
£230 all up to fix. £70 for the part and the rest on labour at a BMW specialist; apparently they live in the hub and nine times out of ten, have to be drilled out.
It remains the only thing of substance to have actually failed (as opposed to wearing out) on my car.
Symptoms were ASC light (no big deal) and speedo/rev counter dead (somewhat bigger deal).
£230 all up to fix. £70 for the part and the rest on labour at a BMW specialist; apparently they live in the hub and nine times out of ten, have to be drilled out.
It remains the only thing of substance to have actually failed (as opposed to wearing out) on my car.
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