Rear hub removal.. and whats the Ali bit?
Rear hub removal.. and whats the Ali bit?
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Discussion

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

209 months

Saturday 8th January 2011
quotequote all
I was wanting to take the hub off to get the white metal carrier thing re-painted... But I can't take it in bits... The Bibble appeared to suggest a spline within the hub spline, but I guess it's not?.. I assume now the bit the CV joints to goes right thru to the front and the 185 LB/Ft nut!
Am I correct?.. But whats that Ali thing... Something the OE car used... may be ABS sensor disc??
I do hope there is no seal between the shaft and the housing as I've got the hub off and it's moveing about... If there is a seal it's cream crackered by now... I does look clean in there (the Ali bit) but may be that's just the closeness of the CV joint?.. here's hopeing..




carsy

3,019 posts

194 months

Saturday 8th January 2011
quotequote all
Undo and remove the hub nut. Then hit the shaft it was on. it will knock right through and allow everything to come to bits. The only seals are the 2 oil seals either end of the hub itself. If you are careful dismantling everything and not renewing wheel bearings they will be ok.


The ali bit you refer to im not too sure. Would think some sort of sensor like you say.

Edited by carsy on Saturday 8th January 21:16

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

209 months

Saturday 8th January 2011
quotequote all
carsy said:
Undo and remove the hub nut. Then hit the shaft it was on. it will knock right through and allow everything to come to bits. The only seals are the 2 oil seals either end of the hub itself. If you are careful dismantling everything and not renewing wheel bearings they will be ok.


The ali bit you refer to im not too sure. Would think some sort of sensor like you say.

Edited by carsy on Saturday 8th January 21:16
Yes.. thats what I thought... but not sure if I can undo the hub nut now it's all in bits... rolleyes

Aussie John

1,021 posts

260 months

Sunday 9th January 2011
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If you stick a couple of the bolts back in on the inside, use a bar or something to hold it and use an airgun to loosen the nut; or maybe a local garage could loosen it for a few quid.

carsy

3,019 posts

194 months

Sunday 9th January 2011
quotequote all
If you have a good vice it is doable. Hold it with the wheel studs in the vice and with a decent breaker bar or similar it will go. Dont forget to check which way the threads run as they are different both sides.

chris52

1,560 posts

212 months

Sunday 9th January 2011
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You should be Ok undoing the nut once they have been on for a while they dont usually take that much force to undo mine didn't, but if you have a problem bring it down to my work and I'll stick the airgun on it. Best getting a new nylon nut though if you do remove it just to be on the safe side, plus when retightening will you need to go that tight again? Isn't that torque setting for new bearings once the bearings are bedded in will it still need retorquing to 185lb? not sure about that so maybe worth getting some advice.

Chris

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

209 months

Sunday 9th January 2011
quotequote all
Mmmmm May be better leaving it alone and spray etch and white hammerite finishing it... Don't want to upset the bearings just for a bit of paint......
Will leave them alone I think.....

Has everyone else got the ali gear / ring thing??... It looks very clean to say it's open to the elements...

smile

roysum

961 posts

218 months

Sunday 9th January 2011
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TVR Beaver said:
Mmmmm May be better leaving it alone and spray etch and white hammerite finishing it... Don't want to upset the bearings just for a bit of paint......
Will leave them alone I think.....

Has everyone else got the ali gear / ring thing??... It looks very clean to say it's open to the elements...

smile
It's worth replacing the bearings and seals in my opinion, they are not exoensive.

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

209 months

Sunday 9th January 2011
quotequote all
But... If it aint broke and all that... and easy to do (in fact easier).. when back together if needed...

driving

330p4

668 posts

259 months

Sunday 9th January 2011
quotequote all
You are correct this is the ABS ring in its OE application change the bearings & seals now you have them stripped bet they will only be £20 pair from a motor factors or bearing supplier
Ian

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

209 months

Sunday 9th January 2011
quotequote all
330p4 said:
You are correct this is the ABS ring in its OE application change the bearings & seals now you have them stripped bet they will only be £20 pair from a motor factors or bearing supplier
Ian
The original torque is 185 / 205 LB/Ft or something... but does this not include the crush or cusion to seat them in the bearing housing? (or so I'm told)... If fitting new bearings to a old housing thats already been 'crushed'... what torque do you use??... Or am I talking nuts

carsy

3,019 posts

194 months

Sunday 9th January 2011
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Yes i think your talking nuts. Whatever your doing just torque up to that 185 spec or whatever it is.

330p4

668 posts

259 months

Monday 10th January 2011
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John i think from memory there is a spacer between the 2 bearings but it is not a crush tube these are usually on the diff nose bearing to set preload
Ian

TVR Beaver

Original Poster:

2,874 posts

209 months

Monday 10th January 2011
quotequote all
Cheers guy's.. thanks for thin info.. Will have a look... John smile