fitting acusump

[dal2litrefrogeye]

Hi all going up autosport/ph show on saturday and will be on look out for( hopefully a show deal ) an acusump system( my xmass present from my wife ), just a couple of questions if any ones fitted one , firstly gona go for the bigest and planing to tap into oil cooler hose , so which one is the return to the engine , i assume that would be the best one to plumb into , and what other components would i need , has any one got a list of what i bassically need ( hose lengths etc ) also is it strickly necessary to have the eltronic valve? ( i always crank it over for a bit before starting anyway ) or is it just a bonus to have that type ?? sorry my questions are all over the show but never had any thing to do with acusump type oil systems , and i find if you dont ask you never know , cheers for any info , regards Darren

[Steve_D]

Yes get the biggest.

Yes you will need the electric valve.

Yes it will go in the return line to the engine.
Some say you should have a non return valve in the line before the tee so the flow from the Accusump can only flow to the engine and not back towards the cooler. I don't have a return valve.

Hose length will depend where you fit things but you will likely get away with 1 metre.

Steve

[MarkWebb]

In my opinion and the manufacturers you should also wire it through a pressure switch (various ones available) so that it only triggers when oil pressure drops below a certain pressure(which needs to be just higher than your hot idle oil pressure). This ensures that the accusump is always at the max oil pressure rather than floating with the engine oil pressure and funnily it will also refill much quicker after a discharge when the solenoid valve is not actuated.
This may not make sense but please read All the info on the manufacturers website www.cantonracingproducts.com It will still do its stuff on cold start and will work much better under track conditions.

UK distributor http://www.performanceunlimited.co.uk/CantonUK%20d...

Edited by MarkWebb on Tuesday 11th January 09:21

[Pb3]

Thats interesting because I never read that before, about the oil pressure switch. However, I have been doing it from day one as I have custom electronics that I use to control the Accusump valve (based on oil pressure and ignition switch position).

Also note that you should only feed the Accusump with filtered oil, that is not done on the standard Ult setup, unless it has changed in recent years.

[dal2litrefrogeye]

Hi Thanks for your advice , and thanks Mark for posting the instructions from canton ,I got my head round how it works now , now my main reason for fitting is some insurance for when im sprinting ( planning to campaign a full season this year )and i feel i will only really need it with the tight twisty corners you can get on a sprint circuit , iv definatly not had any sign of oil surge on the road , so after looking at the canton site in my mind the manual valve comes across as the quicker acting system , and as for the preoiling i dont mind lifting the rear clam and opening the vaulve before i take it out , say for a weekend blast , no different to what i usually do i.e checking oil and coolant after a lay up ( even if only a week ) , I could see myself only really using it ( opening the vaulve full time ) when it comes to track use , or am I missing some other reason why the the engine oil pressure vaulve might be better ? oh yeah while on the subject , mine is a SBC with a factory fitted oil cooler , whats the i d of the oil pipes from cooler to engine , and does anyone know which way the flow is , which hose takes the oil from cooler to engine ,as i assume thats the better one to plumb the acusump into, cheers Dal

Edited by dal2litrefrogeye on Tuesday 11th January 19:23

[MarkWebb]

Pipe size is -10 The oil flows down the outside of the filter and then back up the middle The only way to find out which pipe is which is to take off the oil filter and see how the cooler take off works. Normally The oil comes into the top of it and out to the cooler. Then back from the cooler and down into the outside of the filter ie cooled and connected to the accusump before filtering as somebody else said. However it is possible to get a cooler bypass that filters first before going to the cooler and accusump connection. I agree accusump should be fed filtered oil. The point that I make about the solenoid and pressure switch is that the accusump will be maintained at high pressure rather than fluctuating with engine rpm so when you have a loss of pressure the accusump is full and able to supply oil at higher pressure to the system. And when oil pressure returns from the pump the accusump will fill again at a decent speed ready for the next corner. However if you have a completely open pipe to fill through, the oil pressure will build again more slowly in engine whilst the accusump is refilling. Alternatively if you have the solenoid only the accusump takes an awfully long time to refill due to the design of it(ie it allows oil out quickly but lets it back in slowly whilst the solenoid id triggered).and I am talking minutes. I believe that the only way is to have solenoid and pressure switch (I use an adjustable one) More money but it could save your whole engine and will definitely make it live longer. I experience oil pressure drop on the road during turning to the right(oil pickup is on right side of engine) and sometimes under heavy braking. I have a racing sump with baffles, gates, and wings all of which were working when I took the sump off a couple of weeks ago. Sorry for the long winded reply. I hope it is clear.

[Steve_D]

There are a few things to consider in how it can work best.

With the manual valve open oil will flow in and out of the AS so it will not hold max pressure for when you want it. The electric valve when closed will still allow oil into the AS so it builds pressure when the engine has good pressure.

You want a good charge in it for pre-oil. Elec will close the valve when at tickover and you switch off. Man. the same only you have to open the clip and shut the valve before you switch off at the end of your journey. Neither is ideal as the pressure will be low at tickover.

You want a good charge in it for surge protection. Elec. with oil switch will maintain the highest pressure your engine reaches during that run. Elec. without switch or Man. the pressure will float up and down with engine pressure so will not be fully charged at surge.

On that basis the best option is electric + pressure switch + separate electric supply (not from ignition switch).
Reason....Switch on before startup to preoil. When the pressure in the engine gets to switch pressure the valve will close. When the engine is running the pressure will build in the AS despite the valve being closed. Switch off the power when oil pressure is high as you get to the end of a run/journey.

Steve

[MarkWebb]

exactly what I was saying but explained rather more eloquently.

[MSPV12]

Hi Darren,

I have a complete Accusump system, that is now surplus to requirements. Brand new, never fitted and still in the boxes.

3QT (large) cylinder
Electronic valve (35-40PSI) and relay & switch fitting kit
Aeroquip hose and fittings kit with T-in
One-Way non-return check valve
2x billet mounting brackets

I bought it originally from Canton's UK dealer, Performance Unlimited in July 2009 to fit to my SBC engine, but ultimately sold that engine and trans a year ago to a chap building a can-am. I thought it worth holding onto the accusump kit, but my car builder says that it is not necessary to fit it to my V12 dry-sumped Ferrari engine.

Looking at the invoice, the whole kit cost me £472.50 inc vat and postage of £15, so if you fancy making an offer, please drop me a PM.

I am located 30mins south of Birmingham. Would happily drive to meet, you could collect or I would post to you, whatever. Would be nice to see it put to good use.

Regards
Mark

Edited by MSPV12 on Wednesday 12th January 11:10

[Pointblank]

Hi Mark, if Darren doesn't grab the accusump off you, could I have second 'dibs' please?

Cheers,
Tim.

[MSPV12]

Sure thing Tim

[dal2litrefrogeye]

Hi Mark yes i am interested and iv emailed you . and a big thanks to Mark W and Steve for your advise and explaination of the best way for it to work , i wasnt trying to do things on the cheep / cut corners , just trying to keep things simples , but ill put my hands up and conceed the oil presure type valve is the better way to go , cheers lads

Edited by dal2litrefrogeye on Wednesday 12th January 18:39

[MSPV12]

Sold. See you on Saturday Darren and many thanks.
Mark