TVR Chimaera Running problems
TVR Chimaera Running problems
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Discussion

Duncan189

Original Poster:

38 posts

202 months

Tuesday 11th January 2011
quotequote all
Hi Guys help required!!

Have just put a 1995 chim 4.0 back on the road after it was written off 7 years ago. Since then it had a new front put on but the chap run out of enthusiam and money so I acquired of a breakers yard 28,000 miles on the clock . Apart from the body the rest of the car points to low milage as does the engine. The thing is she is slight lumpy running on idle and jumps and runs lumpy in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear at low speads. I have changed the fuel temp sensor for ecu but no change. whent for her MOT today and passed after all this time and this is when I changed the Fuel temp sender before it went in for the MOT. The guys said the engine is ruunig spot on with very low hydrocarbons and with great enthusiam drove off but no change. Can any one help

Cheers Duncan

TJC46

2,199 posts

237 months

Tuesday 11th January 2011
quotequote all
Could be numerous things, but lets start with the obvious. Clean the stepper motor [might help with the idle]. Check all around the plenum for air leaks,check all hose connections into the plenum, including the small one from the throttle butterfly area to the stepper motor location. Check all the spark plug leads are fitting correctly. Check these in a dark garage or similar with the engine running to see if any are shorting out. Have you changed the plugs? Whats the air filter like? Im sure plenty of others will be along with better advice but its worth doing all the above to eliminate them as possible reasons for your poor running. Nothing to do with your poor running problems but .................
Another must do, especially if the car has been stood for so long is the RUBBER PETROL HOSES! especially the ones in the engine bay. They perish quite easily with the excessive heat, and a leaking petrol hose above the exhaust manifolds spells DISASTER.

Duncan189

Original Poster:

38 posts

202 months

Tuesday 11th January 2011
quotequote all
New plugs, leads, cap, rotor arm, cleaned stepper motor and that wasn't bad now going over engine for air leaks etc as t rev engine up to 3500 and hold on to the top of the intake manifold you can feel a miss so will carry on

peaktorque

1,807 posts

242 months

Tuesday 11th January 2011
quotequote all
Stale fuel in the tank.

It may take a few hundred miles to clear completely.

I had a 'pikey' moment a few years ago and left an E36 BMW dumped on my drive for two years with half a tank of fuel left in it. After it's lay up, it wouldn't restart due to a failed fuel pump so I had to change it. The fuel in tank smelt 'off'. I eventually got it started but it ran like a pig, the more new fuel that when into it and used up, the better it ran.

Also as above check for air leaks smile

Duncan189

Original Poster:

38 posts

202 months

Tuesday 11th January 2011
quotequote all
Yes new fuel as tank was empty checked for air leaks but burn arm on exhaust oops, getting frustrated so putting it to be for tonight but all advise welcome

Chimpafrolic

9,637 posts

210 months

Tuesday 11th January 2011
quotequote all
STC1184 Ignition Module (Lucas if possible)



PRC6574 Bosch Coil (not Britpart or Itermotor rubbish)


blitzracing

6,422 posts

251 months

Wednesday 12th January 2011
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If you have access to a strobe, check that the timing is advancing as it should,(to ensure the bob wieghts have not become stuck in the dizzy) and if you have a bad misfire from the coil, id expect the timing light to go out at the same time as it misfires.

WOO5IE

967 posts

228 months

Wednesday 12th January 2011
quotequote all
Clean up the old rotor arm and try it, if you still have it.

These engines are particular about rotor arms or so I believe.