S3 bonnet alignment how to guide
Discussion
I have had a search but can't find a how to guide or step by step ( best way ) people have found to align there bonnets as mine sticks every now and then, I have got a nice set of hinges coming from Norman and would like some advice from the experienced on how to line up everything after I install them.
Bonnet Adjusting
Please remember its an arcane art not a science and you follow these guidelines at your own peril.
1 Remove the bonnet locking pins from the bonnet itself so it cannot be locked closed.
2 Fit the new hinges one side at a time and its important to take the weight of the bonnet while changing. The two long bolts which act as pivots will need probably cutting to length with a pair of locking nuts inboard to ensure the bonnet doesn’t move sideways.
While doing this I would remove the front inner wheel arch for ease of access. I would also remove the rear arches until the job is finished so you can get to the fixing nuts of the bonnet locking pins in an emergency and you cant release the bonnet.
3 Use the adjustments on the hinge to get a neat fit of the bonnet shut lines at this stage. This will take some time as when you change one setting it will throw out one of the others.
4 Next pull back the bonnet release handle under the dash and tie it back to the steering wheel with a length of wire so the bonnet retaining catches are held open.
5 Replace ONE retaining pin and cover the hole into which it fits with a length of masking tape. Apply something to the pointy end of the retaining pin (I used some dark emulsion paint because I knew it would be easy to remove) and gently lower the bonnet so the painted pointy bit just touches the masking tape. Open the bonnet and see where the mark is in relation to the hole and adjust the retaining pin and repeat until the marking is approximately in the centre of the hole. Remove the masking tape and GENTLY close the bonnet (the catch is still retained open), the pin should go into the hole without catching. If it doesn’t then you just have play around with the pin position until it will. I practice I found the pin had to be very slightly offset to the ‘north’ of the hole to achieve this. The bonnet should now ‘bounce’ on the spring of the retaining pin freely.
6 Crossing every finger now release the retaining catch and try the bonnet release for real on the one pin. It should release OK, if not tie back the release lever and tug and shake gently in all directions until it pops open (this is why you do one side at a time). Also if all else fails its just possible to get a spanner to the retaining nut of the pin to free the bonnet as long as you removed the rear wheel arch.
7 Once the first side is working fine repeat on the other side.
Its not a quick job the first time I did it, it took two frustrating days and in total I had to repeat the exercise again to be satisfied.
Please remember its an arcane art not a science and you follow these guidelines at your own peril.
1 Remove the bonnet locking pins from the bonnet itself so it cannot be locked closed.
2 Fit the new hinges one side at a time and its important to take the weight of the bonnet while changing. The two long bolts which act as pivots will need probably cutting to length with a pair of locking nuts inboard to ensure the bonnet doesn’t move sideways.
While doing this I would remove the front inner wheel arch for ease of access. I would also remove the rear arches until the job is finished so you can get to the fixing nuts of the bonnet locking pins in an emergency and you cant release the bonnet.
3 Use the adjustments on the hinge to get a neat fit of the bonnet shut lines at this stage. This will take some time as when you change one setting it will throw out one of the others.
4 Next pull back the bonnet release handle under the dash and tie it back to the steering wheel with a length of wire so the bonnet retaining catches are held open.
5 Replace ONE retaining pin and cover the hole into which it fits with a length of masking tape. Apply something to the pointy end of the retaining pin (I used some dark emulsion paint because I knew it would be easy to remove) and gently lower the bonnet so the painted pointy bit just touches the masking tape. Open the bonnet and see where the mark is in relation to the hole and adjust the retaining pin and repeat until the marking is approximately in the centre of the hole. Remove the masking tape and GENTLY close the bonnet (the catch is still retained open), the pin should go into the hole without catching. If it doesn’t then you just have play around with the pin position until it will. I practice I found the pin had to be very slightly offset to the ‘north’ of the hole to achieve this. The bonnet should now ‘bounce’ on the spring of the retaining pin freely.
6 Crossing every finger now release the retaining catch and try the bonnet release for real on the one pin. It should release OK, if not tie back the release lever and tug and shake gently in all directions until it pops open (this is why you do one side at a time). Also if all else fails its just possible to get a spanner to the retaining nut of the pin to free the bonnet as long as you removed the rear wheel arch.
7 Once the first side is working fine repeat on the other side.
Its not a quick job the first time I did it, it took two frustrating days and in total I had to repeat the exercise again to be satisfied.
Happy New Year Norman
MMm Now I know why haven't fitted my new hinges. Is it possible to do it this way.
1) Open bonnet remove both front arches
2) Fully close bonnet
3) Remove front wheels
4) Support front of bonnet but do not put stress on it.
5) Working in wheel bay hole remove old hinges and fit new ones.
6) Remove bonnet support
7) Check gaps for equalness etc.
8)Check bonnet opens etc job done.
Or is there in sufficient access due to bonnet closing over hinges to do it this way?
Must say they look great Norman.
MMm Now I know why haven't fitted my new hinges. Is it possible to do it this way.
1) Open bonnet remove both front arches
2) Fully close bonnet
3) Remove front wheels
4) Support front of bonnet but do not put stress on it.
5) Working in wheel bay hole remove old hinges and fit new ones.
6) Remove bonnet support
7) Check gaps for equalness etc.
8)Check bonnet opens etc job done.
Or is there in sufficient access due to bonnet closing over hinges to do it this way?
Must say they look great Norman.
Edited by DJ8226 on Wednesday 12th January 20:57
Having got the bonnet stuck, I can tell you the correct way is as Norman suggests!
The problem is that the bonnet is pretty heavy so you can't get an idea of how central the pins are, but also, when you have made any adjustments, it is unlikely that the pins will be in the correct place anyway so they will need to be adjusted anyway.
Have fun and allow plenty of time.
Nigel
The problem is that the bonnet is pretty heavy so you can't get an idea of how central the pins are, but also, when you have made any adjustments, it is unlikely that the pins will be in the correct place anyway so they will need to be adjusted anyway.
Have fun and allow plenty of time.
Nigel
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