Finished the welding
Discussion
Just a poor excuse to post up loads of pics really sorry 
So I've got these bit left over
Here's where they came from:
I decided to repair the main chassis sections like this rather than replace like I did with the outrigger to reduce the possibility of distortion / movement. The section by the exhaust manifolds in the pics further up was done in the same way.
The plates on this side weren't as bad as the other but I did these too while I was at it....
I didn't want anything clamping round my nice new powder coat so I added some brackets for the oil filter & washer bottle.
The gear box mount wasn't rusty but I found it was very bent. I'd wandered why the new rubbers I fitted were always squashed to one side when I removed them, this was why!
So I flattened it out with my new press, but when I tried it up against the gear box I found it still didn't fit as the factory welds on the inside of the mount fouled the gear box casing face.
So I cut though from the outside to remove the inner welds, then welded from the out side only
Then went a bit mad reinforcing it, with a 5mm plate welded to the base & the sides excessively beefed up.
While I was at the unnecessary stage I beefed up the heavy duty diff mounds Ridds very nicely had made too.
Just got to finish stripping the hubs & get the last few bushes out & it's off the the powder coaters for every thing
So I've got these bit left over
Here's where they came from:
I decided to repair the main chassis sections like this rather than replace like I did with the outrigger to reduce the possibility of distortion / movement. The section by the exhaust manifolds in the pics further up was done in the same way.
The plates on this side weren't as bad as the other but I did these too while I was at it....
I didn't want anything clamping round my nice new powder coat so I added some brackets for the oil filter & washer bottle.
The gear box mount wasn't rusty but I found it was very bent. I'd wandered why the new rubbers I fitted were always squashed to one side when I removed them, this was why!
So I flattened it out with my new press, but when I tried it up against the gear box I found it still didn't fit as the factory welds on the inside of the mount fouled the gear box casing face.
So I cut though from the outside to remove the inner welds, then welded from the out side only
Then went a bit mad reinforcing it, with a 5mm plate welded to the base & the sides excessively beefed up.
While I was at the unnecessary stage I beefed up the heavy duty diff mounds Ridds very nicely had made too.
Just got to finish stripping the hubs & get the last few bushes out & it's off the the powder coaters for every thing
Edited by Luckyone on Wednesday 12th January 10:21
I take it that was a mig welder?
Currently my car stays garaged and dehumidified to put it off as a long as possible
I have to admit to being worse than you though. When I come to doing this and I think inevitably every Cerb owner will eventually.
I will not be able to bring myself to doing a patch weld along those members as you have done.
I reckon by the design there is still quite a lot of flex in the Cerb ladder design. Much better than chimps and griffs, but still a lot of flex.
I will be forking out to replace the tubes to each weld points at either end to preserve the evenness of the flex.
I don't have an evidence to tell me thats the best thing or even necessary, but I can't look at your welds in the body of the tube.
Currently my car stays garaged and dehumidified to put it off as a long as possible
I have to admit to being worse than you though. When I come to doing this and I think inevitably every Cerb owner will eventually.
I will not be able to bring myself to doing a patch weld along those members as you have done.
I reckon by the design there is still quite a lot of flex in the Cerb ladder design. Much better than chimps and griffs, but still a lot of flex.
I will be forking out to replace the tubes to each weld points at either end to preserve the evenness of the flex.
I don't have an evidence to tell me thats the best thing or even necessary, but I can't look at your welds in the body of the tube.
Many years ago when I did my 'm' chassis, I removed any tube that had any rot in it as I thought that patching was not a good idea. I know what you are saying about flexing though so I did one at a time.
Seemed to go back together alright and I was able to get it laser aligned without any problem...
You are a much better welder than me though
D
Seemed to go back together alright and I was able to get it laser aligned without any problem...
You are a much better welder than me though
D
I have just finished beefing up a chassis for my cerbera too .I have replaced the sill tubes with 2.5 mm wall cds and triangulated the front outrigger to the shocker plate with a standard wall tube . This passed very close to the top wishbone bush so I welded on a lug to pit the mounting into double shear . I took it to the powder coaters yesterday but will post some pis when I get it back . David
plasticman said:
I have just finished beefing up a chassis for my cerbera too .I have replaced the sill tubes with 2.5 mm wall cds and triangulated the front outrigger to the shocker plate with a standard wall tube . This passed very close to the top wishbone bush so I welded on a lug to pit the mounting into double shear . I took it to the powder coaters yesterday but will post some pis when I get it back . David
I like the sound of this. Bizarrely, there is a carpark near us that could always make the Cerbera flex - it has done for years! Audibly it creaked as it went round the up-ramp, however, since it has had the new Outriggers from raceproved with extra bracing, it no longer makes any noise at all... Luckyone, keep at it, looks like you're doing a great job.
It is a MIG yes, I have years of practice with it & a few old qualifications. I wouldn't have attacked the chassis otherwise!
They are fair points, I was going to replace the whole front tube, but the top main tube (that I repaired where the exhaust burned the powder coat off long ago) would be very hard to replace as one, as runs just about the whole length of the chassis. I wasn't too sure about the patch (still not really) but I figured it had to be better than the very thin steel that was there. I was so pleased with the results though that I decided to just patch the front tube as well.
Thanks BCA
The gut I got my steel from only stocked cold drawn, he had a few choice to say about the standard TVR stuff!
They are fair points, I was going to replace the whole front tube, but the top main tube (that I repaired where the exhaust burned the powder coat off long ago) would be very hard to replace as one, as runs just about the whole length of the chassis. I wasn't too sure about the patch (still not really) but I figured it had to be better than the very thin steel that was there. I was so pleased with the results though that I decided to just patch the front tube as well.
Thanks BCA
plasticman said:
I have just finished beefing up a chassis for my cerbera too .I have replaced the sill tubes with 2.5 mm wall cds and triangulated the front outrigger to the shocker plate with a standard wall tube . This passed very close to the top wishbone bush so I welded on a lug to pit the mounting into double shear . I took it to the powder coaters yesterday but will post some pis when I get it back . David
Now this sounds very interesting, I guess you are tying in the roll cage more by doing that? Puts my pony efforts to shame... Very much looking forward to seeing the pics, maybe my welding isn't quite finished after all The gut I got my steel from only stocked cold drawn, he had a few choice to say about the standard TVR stuff!
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