clutch master cylinder / slave removal advice please
clutch master cylinder / slave removal advice please
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PYNEY

Original Poster:

1,048 posts

247 months

Wednesday 12th January 2011
quotequote all
hi all

next job for me is to replace the clutch master cylinder and slave
my first query is the where the clutch pedal is attached to the master cylinder rod is this removed by undoing the nut on this rod where it joins the pedal
i know this sounds obvious but "steve heath" mentions a clevis pin to remove i dont have one ? it seems to have a pin/rivet in it which you cant remove ?

on the slave cylinder when adusting the piston rod to the fork release do you leave any free play or do you tighten the piston rod just up to the fork release as a tight fit ?

cheers keith

ps any other tips on doing this would be helpful



Edited by PYNEY on Wednesday 12th January 20:49

Colin RedGriff

2,541 posts

286 months

Wednesday 12th January 2011
quotequote all
This is from memory so might be wrong. You should have a clevis pin. There is a clip that goes around the shaft attached to the clevis pin which holds it in place

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Thursday 13th January 2011
quotequote all
Does it look anything like this where it joins the pedal ? (Must paint that steering column one day)



On mine there is a pin through the pedal, retained with a split pin.Whatever you've got must come out some how ?

Re the pushrod, unless its too late I wouldn't mess with it. The hydraulics should sort of "auto adjust" and take up any slack but leave enough clearance, I think.

PYNEY

Original Poster:

1,048 posts

247 months

Thursday 13th January 2011
quotequote all
thanks guys for your help "colin and phillpot"

i've put the new slave in , putting the union in was a sod it just wouldn't line up

i did have a clevis pin lol i couldn't see it yesterday ? need glasses
it took me all day from jacking the car up and fumbling around underneath doing thing twice etc etc
but i did it myself great satisfaction !

one thing i've not seen anyone speak of is putting red rubber grease on both of the push rods slave and master
now i've put the grease on thing should move easier and no squeaks

cheers keith

Edited by PYNEY on Thursday 13th January 20:46

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Thursday 13th January 2011
quotequote all
Glad you got it sorted Keith,

I used "Coppa Slip" on pivots etc. same result !

Was your pushrod sort of "deformed" where it pushes into the relaese arm ? this is a little mod. I did to mine, the nut was brazed on then ground out to form a matching socket to the pushrod



PYNEY

Original Poster:

1,048 posts

247 months

Thursday 13th January 2011
quotequote all
thanks mike

my car has only done 35,000 miles so i was lucky that it hasn't worn out yet
i did have the start of wear on the push rod looked like small cuts on the end where it rubbing on the cluth fork

just to clarify the red rubber grease is for the part of the push rod thats inside the cylinders
i've been informed any other grease will get in to the clutch fluid and possibly cause problems at a later date ?

phillpot

17,510 posts

212 months

Friday 14th January 2011
quotequote all
PYNEY said:
the cluth fork

just to clarify the red rubber grease is for the part of the push rod thats inside the cylinders
i've been informed any other grease will get in to the clutch fluid and possibly cause problems at a later date ?
I think you're quite right, the red grease is compatable with the seals, whereas other greases may "attack" the rubber causing it to swell or deteriorate etc.
I'll take my chances with the Coppa Slip think it should be ok, we used to use loads on disc pads to prevent squeal and thats pretty close to the caliper seals ?