Correct procedure for tightening front hubs?
Correct procedure for tightening front hubs?
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Discussion

techspy

Original Poster:

321 posts

275 months

Friday 23rd April 2004
quotequote all
Ok, I am going to check the front hubs/bearings to ensure they are in spec. Hopefully this will take care of a front end vibration at about 60mph.
Anyway, I have the manual and have found the procedures. I understand the first part, torque to 22 ft lbs, loosen and hand tighten until you have about 0.1-1.1 lbs of force to turn the hub. I understand that using a sping scale is the way to do this. But, it says to use a dial guage to measure hub end float which should be a maximum of .05 mm. How is this last part done? Where exactly do you measure this distance?

Thanks
John
94 S4
http://hometown.aol.com/oneshotcop/myhomepage/profile.html

arium

101 posts

266 months

Friday 23rd April 2004
quotequote all
I think the procedure of measuring end float is akin to that of measuring disc runout; just a differnt item. You need to affix the mount of the dial indicator to the axle stub or control arm and then rock the hub back and forth. The movement of the indictator obviously would need to be on the end of the hub. The deviation that you get would be the end float. Same as measuring thrust bearing clearance on a crankshaft/camshaft too.

Hope it helps.

bojangles

464 posts

267 months

Friday 23rd April 2004
quotequote all
I have my discs and calipers off and I feel a sorta light scratchy feeling when I rotate the hubs
I am going to clean and repack them. let me know how yours feel before and after..
Bruce S4s

techspy

Original Poster:

321 posts

275 months

Friday 23rd April 2004
quotequote all
Thanks for the info AR.

Bruce, will do. I have the spring scale ordered, so I should take on the project some time next week.

John
94 S4
http://hometown.aol.com/oneshotcop/myhomepage/profile.html

techspy

Original Poster:

321 posts

275 months

Sunday 25th April 2004
quotequote all
The manual says it takes a 33mm socket. Is that correct? I am having a hard time finding one locally. Anyone have an online (US) source for sockets like this?

John
94 S4
http://hometown.aol.com/oneshotcop/myhomepage/profile.html

rlearp

391 posts

281 months

Sunday 25th April 2004
quotequote all
Seriously, you don't need a spring scale to do the wheel hubs. I've done literally hundreds and it is simple (used to work summers for a garage). Load them up with grease, assemble the hub, and tighten the hub nut down to it until there is slight drag on the caliper while spinning it. Then pin the nut, peen it, or use a pin depending on design so it doesn't work loose. Never had any problems in over 20 years of messing with them. More than likely you won't need a socket for the hub nut as you can generally do them with a dry gloved hand to the level that it needs to be tightened.

>> Edited by rlearp on Sunday 25th April 21:13

techspy

Original Poster:

321 posts

275 months

Monday 26th April 2004
quotequote all
Well thats done. Although I have only been on a quick test run, I think it took care of that vibration. But now I notice a little comming from the rear now. I havn't had them balanced in a while so i will do that soon. Is there a similar procedure for the rear hub bearings?

Bruce, I didn't notice any scraping before or after the job.

John
94 S4
http://hometown.aol.com/oneshotcop/myhomepage/profile.html

mikelr

153 posts

271 months

Monday 26th April 2004
quotequote all
The rears are a sealed bolt in unit.